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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Old 01-06-2009, 05:58 AM
  #3886  
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I did a quick measurement of the stiffness of a brand new 416 and the 416WE main chassis when assembling my new car. The WE chassis was 10-20 % softer.
My experiance of the 416 when testing diffrent stiffness upper chassis has mostly been that softer is better for me.
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Old 01-06-2009, 11:51 PM
  #3887  
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On carpet with rubber tires (13.5) the car didn't feel nearly as direct with the new top deck. I suppose that's to be expected, as it seems to be meant for asphalt, but I figured it was worth a try. I'll keep it in the box for bad traction days.
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Old 01-07-2009, 11:15 PM
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Heres some idle chatter that may be of use to people...


I bent one of my C blocks the other day and took it as an opportunity to try some different suspension blocks up front. First I tried C/B, so a fraction narrower but .5 deg of sweep. This gave a bit too much steering off power but not enough on. Then I tried D/D again, which I had tried before but not with the HPI springs. This combo worked great, compared to C/C the steering is less direct but this made corner entry smoother and for me its easier to drive consistently
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Old 01-08-2009, 02:11 AM
  #3889  
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
Heres some idle chatter that may be of use to people...


I bent one of my C blocks the other day and took it as an opportunity to try some different suspension blocks up front. First I tried C/B, so a fraction narrower but .5 deg of sweep. This gave a bit too much steering off power but not enough on. Then I tried D/D again, which I had tried before but not with the HPI springs. This combo worked great, compared to C/C the steering is less direct but this made corner entry smoother and for me its easier to drive consistently
what if you now went back to C/C and used a 0.5mm spacer on the wheels?
this would keep the D/D track width, but with the C/C roll centers....
curious to me anyways, as i am wrestling with these sorts of setup changes myself atm...
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Old 01-08-2009, 04:26 AM
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
Heres some idle chatter that may be of use to people...


I bent one of my C blocks the other day and took it as an opportunity to try some different suspension blocks up front. First I tried C/B, so a fraction narrower but .5 deg of sweep. This gave a bit too much steering off power but not enough on. Then I tried D/D again, which I had tried before but not with the HPI springs. This combo worked great, compared to C/C the steering is less direct but this made corner entry smoother and for me its easier to drive consistently
Nice findings Craig. I smoked my motor on my 2nd run so didn't get to try much...
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Old 01-08-2009, 09:23 AM
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Any have feedback on the belt question....

Thanks...
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Old 01-08-2009, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by TimPotter View Post
Any have feedback on the belt question....

Thanks...
old or new belts ?
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Old 01-08-2009, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Adam? View Post
On carpet with rubber tires (13.5) the car didn't feel nearly as direct with the new top deck. I suppose that's to be expected, as it seems to be meant for asphalt, but I figured it was worth a try. I'll keep it in the box for bad traction days.
TBH, I've found the car to be better with the cut brace regardless... Even on very high grip carpet and rubbers. Pretty much everyone else I've spoken whoose either tried a cut brace or new top deck ahs said the same thing...
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Old 01-08-2009, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
TBH, I've found the car to be better with the cut brace regardless... Even on very high grip carpet and rubbers. Pretty much everyone else I've spoken whoose either tried a cut brace or new top deck ahs said the same thing...
Which brace are you referring to as the 'cut brace'?

Btw, great site!
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Old 01-08-2009, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by CarKing View Post
I was looking for a little input from Ed or anyone familar with this kit if people are using 2 or 3 hole pistons on outdoor asphalt.
2
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Old 01-08-2009, 06:59 PM
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if i was to space my wheels out 1mm what will that do to my handling characteristics?
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Old 01-08-2009, 07:17 PM
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ah multiquote is back

Originally Posted by mok View Post
what if you now went back to C/C and used a 0.5mm spacer on the wheels?
this would keep the D/D track width, but with the C/C roll centers....
curious to me anyways, as i am wrestling with these sorts of setup changes myself atm...
and you would have more camber rise compared to D/D due to the shorter links. hrmm

Originally Posted by veecee View Post
Nice findings Craig. I smoked my motor on my 2nd run so didn't get to try much...
I heard about that, I almost did the same earlier - the faster track really builds the temps!
Originally Posted by John St.Amant View Post
2
Most asphalt set ups I've seen use 3
Originally Posted by eddie10 View Post
if i was to space my wheels out 1mm what will that do to my handling characteristics?
According to the setup books, wider track gives less traction. I think the idea behind spacing though is to give you a particular width regardless of what blocks you're using. So you might use D/D with no spacers, or C/C with .5, or B/B with 1 and have the same front track. By doing this you are changing RC and camber rise without altering the track, so the traction gained or lost is all RC and not track width related

Personally, I space my rear wheels by .5mm when using D/D because I've been told not to run a wider front track than rear, and the rear is narrower than the front when using D/D XA/E without rear wheel spacers. I've never tried having a narrower rear, but people on here have and make it work.

As John has mentioned previously, you may be flirting with danger running 1mm of spacers in a wheel with a shallow hex. I've never had issues with .5 and rubbers on asphalt, but foam on carpet would be another story

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Old 01-08-2009, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by MDawson View Post
Which brace are you referring to as the 'cut brace'?

Btw, great site!
Hey Mark,
What's up? I thought you were running Kyosho! Welcome back to the "DARK SIDE". Or is it the Dark blue side. Yes, TRYHARD'S website is excellent for info on the 416 and the 415.
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Old 01-08-2009, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by CraigM
Personally, I space my rear wheels by .5mm when using D/D because I've been told not to run a wider front track than rear, and the rear is narrower than the front when using D/D XA/E without rear wheel spacers. I've never tried having a narrower rear, but people on here have and make it work.
Hi Craig

I've been told and have tried it myself that a narrower rear track than the front will make the car want to understeer and vice-versa.

Tim
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Old 01-08-2009, 10:58 PM
  #3900  
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
As John has mentioned previously, you may be flirting with danger running 1mm of spacers in a wheel with a shallow hex. I've never had issues with .5 and rubbers on asphalt, but foam on carpet would be another story
my experiences have been that 0.5-1.5 is safe, but 2mm of spacers I would not..
(this has all been with rubbers on either carpet or asphalt)

i have been using speedmind, vtec, much more, tamiya and sorex rims with anywhere up to 1.5mm of spacers and never had a wheel come off..
i've got a tendency to believe that as long as about 1mm of wheel hub goes inside the rim then you should be ok (freak occurances aside )

i think realistically though, if you want 1mm or more of spacers then you should be moving to the 6mm hubs

-Mark
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