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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Old 12-21-2008, 06:51 PM
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Hey guys,

Need a spur/pinion combo to acheive a FDR ratio of 3.9-4.4 (for silvercan). Does anyone know what will fit in there as the larger pinions seem harder to fit under the upper deck. 48P and 64P gearing options would be ace!

thanks in advance,
Steve
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Old 12-21-2008, 11:58 PM
  #3782  
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Originally Posted by myan_gsr View Post
Hey guys,

Need a spur/pinion combo to acheive a FDR ratio of 3.9-4.4 (for silvercan). Does anyone know what will fit in there as the larger pinions seem harder to fit under the upper deck. 48P and 64P gearing options would be ace!

thanks in advance,
Steve
Check TryHards Gearing sheet
http://www.thard.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=31

...
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Old 12-22-2008, 05:19 AM
  #3783  
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Originally Posted by Stein Tumert View Post
Check TryHards Gearing sheet
http://www.thard.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=31

...
Cheers for that, just the info i needed, lets just hope I get the right combo
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Old 12-22-2008, 01:30 PM
  #3784  
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didn't manange to get the roll centre calculator fully sorted yet... need to take some measurements off my car first.

However, I do have a fully working example, with some guestimated values , updated the look a little bit, and added in an important setup change, which is the chassis thickness (after all, most of us set our ride-heights to the underside of the plate... extra thickness in the chassis will raise the rc).

I've attached the example below, along with the updated 415 version as well (it was a slow day at work...). That one does have all the correct measurements in it

I'll update the 416 as soon as I get a chance, but hopefully you can all see what I'm trying to acheive.

Cheers
Ed
Attached Files
File Type: zip
TRF415 Advanced RC Calc.zip (22.4 KB, 71 views)

Last edited by TryHard; 12-22-2008 at 01:54 PM.
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Old 12-22-2008, 01:37 PM
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ed those zip files come up corrupt for me after i download them.
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Old 12-22-2008, 01:53 PM
  #3786  
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hmm, I'll try zipping them again, seem fine on my PC. Then again, I'm using 7zip, not winzip.

Try downloading them again now.

Regards
Ed
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Old 12-22-2008, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
hmm, I'll try zipping them again, seem fine on my PC. Then again, I'm using 7zip, not winzip.

Try downloading them again now.

Regards
Ed
still corrupt.
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Old 12-22-2008, 02:08 PM
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416 one works fine for me
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Old 12-22-2008, 02:10 PM
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i guess it's this crappy work computer. Carry on then nothing to see here.
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Old 12-24-2008, 02:07 PM
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TTT. Happy Holidays to my fellow 416ers.

Just to update everyone that I've been doing alot of testing on my local track, mainly testing on shock rebounds and have come to the conclusion that putting a 1mm hole on the shock cap and using different size spacers to change rebound is alot more accurate, alot easier to change setup when needed, less messy and economical as you don't have to top up oil everytime. Thanks to the person (Corey "Whitey" Whiteman) that suggested this method.

Ive done close to 30 packs this week alone (6 mins each) running a 4 turn motor and I can't believe how strong the drivetrain.

Next test will be how the 2.5mm chassis compares to stock 2.25mm
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Old 12-24-2008, 02:42 PM
  #3791  
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Do you race on carpet? I was wondering if the vent hole works on asphalt as well.
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Old 12-24-2008, 02:45 PM
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I race asphalt. The mod should work as it makes adjusting rebound easier and more accurate than other methods. You can start running full rebound by using a thicker spacer and fine tuning by running thinner spacers if you want more grip by just taking the shock cap without disturbing the seal which makes it less messy and cheaper as you don't use oil everytime.

I suggest you buy 2 packs of the Vparts as you get the 2 plastic shock caps on each packet and you can experiment.

Last edited by danjoy25; 12-24-2008 at 02:56 PM.
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Old 12-24-2008, 07:24 PM
  #3793  
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
In all honesty (and this has been pointed out before) your not gonna see a huge difference between a WE car, and one that has been given all the "regular race" parts (short arms, gut top deck etc).

Simply put the WE is supplied to mimic the current setups most of us run, whereas the original 416 was supplied with parts most people don't sue any more (Long arms, one way etc).

Is it worth it... if you have a fully hopped up 416, probably not. If you don't have one, then it's certainly a more sensible buy than an original 416.

HiH
Ed
TryHard, u ever list the difference between the two version of 416 & what is required to convert the normal 416 to a 416we
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Old 12-25-2008, 12:59 AM
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not as of yet... but it's something I should do

I'll give a crack some time in the new year, plenty of stuff to be getting on with for the site now

But as a quick one... if you have a 416 already with a spool, short arms etc, then all thats really different on the WE are the top deck, chassis plate, belts and motor mount. Thats it.
As mentioned before, IMO, none of thoose are the be all and end all... the top deck and possibly the chassis plate would be the two biggest performance enhancers (cells are further forward on the WE, so should help with steering).

HiH
Ed
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Old 12-26-2008, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by ali_g View Post
TryHard, u ever list the difference between the two version of 416 & what is required to convert the normal 416 to a 416we
I've added a WE info link on the site now... might try and do a conversion guide later when I get some more time.

Anyway, I've just updated the suspension block chart, added in an extra table with partnumbers for all the relevant blocks.

http://www.thard.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=30

HiH
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