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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Old 12-14-2008, 03:38 PM
  #3661  
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i noticed the "vent hole in shock cap".
I have never heard of this before.

Could you explain me where this idea comes from, what the advantages are?

Also: Fastcats Grandslam: I guess this is a carpet-track?
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Old 12-14-2008, 03:42 PM
  #3662  
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Drilling that hole minimizes the pack and also will eliminate rebound issues not warrented for oohhh ,, u almost got me ..lol..
no really its for limiting pack.... and rebound.
Some times guys use o-rings or eurithane inside the shock bladders too.
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Old 12-14-2008, 04:31 PM
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john, you exactly right. I use this trick to eliminate most of the rebound which is ideal for higher grip situations. Why it suits higher grip is it will help keep the car from traction rolling, making the car less responsive and more forgiving. Some people eliminate rebound by bleeding oil, however I find it is nearly inpossible to build four completely identical shocks when air is present in the shock. With the vent hole, the "pack", or air that was once trapped between the cap and bladder, no longer effects the rebound. So now I have very little rebound compared to before and have the benefit of air free shocks which last a WHOLE race weekend...or longer depending on grip level.
Now some may wonder, "how can I fine tune rebound with a vent hole?". You can do this by purchasing, making(cutting those crappy red foam pieces included in your shock baggies), or using left over o-rings from the build to adjust the space between the cap and bladder to give you the desired effect.

Hope this was clear for eveyone, people I have built shocks for in the past seem to prefer this method as well, a typical responce being "my car was butter smooth and the shocks last forever!". For those who plan on trying this, plz leave some feedback.

Cheers!
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Old 12-14-2008, 04:34 PM
  #3664  
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....and yes Fastcats is a indoor carpet track.
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Old 12-14-2008, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
yup, spot on Most setups quote ir like you say, with 5mm and 4mm... whats slightly confusing is that a smaller number actually equates to more droop...

The most accurate way of measuring droop is actually to remove the wheels and tyres, then place the car on a flat plate and measure up to the axles. This way you can keep it consistent from tyre to tyre (they all have slightly different diameters)... and is good for Foam.

David Junn explains the method in more detail here http://www.thard.co.uk/415/tips/DavidJundroopmethod.doc

HiH
Ed
I thought you recommended measuring to bottom of the actual pin, and not the surrounding a-arm plastic? 4mm of droop would be quite a bit lower in the rear if you measured to the metal pin...
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Old 12-14-2008, 05:52 PM
  #3666  
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Originally Posted by TRFwhitey View Post
Hey Adam,

here is my setup fresh from the Grandslam race at fastcats.
Sweet, thank you. Awesome run in the main!
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Old 12-14-2008, 05:56 PM
  #3667  
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Corey, did you use the soft IFS c-hubs for durability, or for tuning? I've noticed they tend to yield a lot more steering.
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Old 12-14-2008, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by danjoy25 View Post
So is the pic below correct if the set up sheet says 5mm rear droop.
hi all,
I am kinda confused. In this measurement method, the shocks were not removed.

While based on Xray setup book, it was advise that the shocks to be removed before measurements.

pls advise...

thanks.
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Old 12-14-2008, 06:50 PM
  #3669  
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Much More makes a set of foam to go above the bladder, its perfect for anyone wanting to try out different rebound settings using Corey's vent hole method.

Doriftu - I've never measured droop like that, but I'd imagine you would want the shocks off of the car since generally one spring will have more pre-load than the other.
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Old 12-14-2008, 06:51 PM
  #3670  
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thx adam, I used the c-hubs to get more steering. The durability is just a bonus it was a perfect run, after mike pulled off I didn't really push the issue. I felt it had a 11.8 in it...oh well
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Old 12-14-2008, 06:53 PM
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Good running this weekend Corey-
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Old 12-14-2008, 07:53 PM
  #3672  
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Hupo Reedy setup..

Originally Posted by Jimmy Jacobson View Post
Here is Hupo H set up from the 2008 Reedy Race
Front
middle hole on Tower
Tamiya 400 Wt 3 hole pistons
3.5mm under camber link in middle hole
Furthest hole on A arm
4mm hex hub .5mm spacer
416 D front and 416 d rear flat
HPI silver spring
5mm ackerman
.5mm bump steer spacer
droop 6
arm spacing 2 mm front 2mm rear
Rear
3rd hole out on tower
Tamiya 400 wt 3 hole pistons
3.5mm under camber link middle hole
3mm spacer outside hole rear hub
HPI Blue spring
2nd hole outside on a arm
4mm hex hubs
1xa rear front 1d rear
mazda speed 6 body
arm spacing 3mm front 1mm rear
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Old 12-14-2008, 08:42 PM
  #3673  
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Originally Posted by doriftu View Post
While based on Xray setup book, it was advise that the shocks to be removed before measurements.

pls advise...

thanks.
Correct, it was a quick snap I did to show which spot I use to measure. I would normally take the shocks off as well.
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Old 12-14-2008, 09:21 PM
  #3674  
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To be super sure of your droop setting you should measure it without shocks or sway bars, then with the sway bars attached. If it doesn't remain the same you need to adjust your sway bar links
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Old 12-14-2008, 10:26 PM
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not only that but then are your shocks allowing the full droop as well?
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