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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Old 08-14-2008, 01:11 PM
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back at ya
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Old 08-14-2008, 02:01 PM
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Chris, easy way round not having adobe. Go to;
Tool -> Select and zoom -> Snapshot tool

then drag around the area, and it'll take a pic of the sheet, which you can then paste in photoshop/paintshop etc.... Like so
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-bashley-base.jpg  
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Old 08-14-2008, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Chris, easy way round not having adobe. Go to;
Tool -> Select and zoom -> Snapshot tool

then drag around the area, and it'll take a pic of the sheet, which you can then paste in photoshop/paintshop etc.... Like so
yah.. but if you had Acrobat.. you can enter your data.. save it and save that set up..... then send it to me... i can print that out... take it to the track. if i have changes.. i can make changes. then reopen the same file and note the changes (without having to reenter the entire set up all over again). save it again. less work.

can you tell im lazy?
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Old 08-14-2008, 02:40 PM
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anyone know the size difference with the 416 axles..and the old axles?

also.. has anyone tried the old style steering knuckle and rear hub on the 416 and notice any performance difference? im curious about running it since i have a TON of spares from the old car (the one that uses the 5x9 bearing)
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Old 08-17-2008, 02:41 AM
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Does lowering the front hubs do anything handling wise?

In other news, I rebuilt my shocks with 50% rebound and it really calmed the car down. It's just great now, really bolted to the track and as Ed mentioned on the site using the foam bushings mean you don't lose much in quick directional changes
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Old 08-17-2008, 08:24 AM
  #2721  
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Hey Guys,

Got a question regarding the TRF416. I used to run the 415 series of the car and I always found the car had a lot of chatter with a spool - practically impossible to drive and just wrecked the CVDs. How is the TRF416 with chatter with the spool and in general how does to car go in regards to wear and tear?

My final two questions, how is the car from a setup point of view - is it fairly 'easy' to setup in terms of having a wide setup window? Finally - is the car consistent generally in terms of handling from run to run? I've not run any of the later TRF cars and am looking at getting back into it in Modified.

I'd appreciate any assistance you could give.
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Old 08-18-2008, 01:58 AM
  #2722  
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just wondering,i order some spare rear upright with the code 51333,once i got them i realize that they are not the same like the one that came with the kit.
looks like that it takes the 9050 bearings and not the 1050.
can anyone explain?
thanx
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Old 08-18-2008, 05:14 AM
  #2723  
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Hi,

the right ones (1050 Bearings) are the 51333 TRF416 Rear Upright

the wrong ones (950 Bearing) are: 51105 TB Evolution IV E-Parts (Rear Upright)
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Old 08-18-2008, 08:05 AM
  #2724  
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well,this are the one i ordered and are not the proper one
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-trf...h=595_744_1230
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Old 08-18-2008, 11:31 AM
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I noticed that the car does not have full steering lock even though I have cranked up the steering travel all the way on my radio. Any ideas? Thanks.
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Old 08-18-2008, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Yellowtaro View Post
I noticed that the car does not have full steering lock even though I have cranked up the steering travel all the way on my radio. Any ideas? Thanks.
just gear up 3 teeth.... you'll be fine.

(sorry guys, i race with Yellowtaro regularly, im just messing with him)
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Old 08-18-2008, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by guinnes.s View Post
well,this are the one i ordered and are not the proper one
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-trf...h=595_744_1230
They are the right ones... hmm, have you checked the header card? not a case of RcMart sending you the wrong parts is it?

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Old 08-18-2008, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Yellowtaro View Post
I noticed that the car does not have full steering lock even though I have cranked up the steering travel all the way on my radio. Any ideas? Thanks.
What servo horn are you using? I have to use more EPA on my tranny since switching to the square alloy servo saver, than i did when using the solid (longer) horn. That's simply because the saver horn has a shorter amount of throw.
I can still happily get the car turned round within a track width though (I have about 17 of lock each side max). If your running too much lock, you'll just be scrubbing the fronts through the turns... so you'll need to change your setup to help give the car more front end.

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Old 08-18-2008, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Hebiki View Post
just gear up 3 teeth.... you'll be fine.

(sorry guys, i race with Yellowtaro regularly, im just messing with him)
Hebiki: Wish you hadn't include the side note then it will really be funny!

Thanks ED for your quick response. I am using an aftermarket servo saver. So if I use the stock Tamiya one, I will have full steering?
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Old 08-18-2008, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Yellowtaro View Post
Hebiki: Wish you hadn't include the side note then it will really be funny!

Thanks ED for your quick response. I am using an aftermarket servo saver. So if I use the stock Tamiya one, I will have full steering?
Should have, yes. If you want more steering, mount the horn off centre, using an outside hole to mount the ball joint.

Also, to get equal side to side, when the steering is centred, the horn should be slightly canted intowards the car... I'll quote this from another forum

Running through my method for setting up steering.

First thing to do is make sure the tie-rods are the same length. You should never run unequal length links (unless you have an old xray with an off centre mounted steering system), as this will mean you don't get equal steering side to side.

Then I'll make sure that the tie rod to the steering systems is at a perpendicular (90) angle to the servo horn. This is allow the steering to have equal steering throw side to side. On my 416 (and 415 previous to that), that means that when the steering is centred, the top of the horn is pointing in towards the centre line of the car. Adjust the position of the horn by firstly zeroing the servo then lining the horn up on the spline closest, then adjust your sub trim till at the right angle.

Then attach it all up and place on the gauges (making sure to push the wheels back). First job is to get the steering straight. Adjust the servo horn tierod until there is equal toe both sides. When thats achieved, you should then be able to adjust the L/R steering tie-rods equal amounts to obtain your required level of toe. I also check the steering throw levels on the gauges, which I can then fine tune using EPA adjust on the tranny (although if everything else is right, it shouldn't need much, if any tuning).

Now the steering should be dead straight, with equal side to side throw, and the required level of toe.

Sounds like a lot to start with, but once you've worked through it a couple of times, it becomes pretty easy to figure out.
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