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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Old 07-15-2008, 05:18 AM
  #2536  
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
I believe you can use the original C-hub, and hardware. However, iirc, you need to add 1mm under the outer ball joint to get the link in the same place. The difference between the two types is that the new one has a different method for mounting the collars (of which there are two now), whereby the they should never have the opportunity to fall out, even if you loose the screw!
I've also been told about the option to flip one of the collars under the front hub to help lower the hub... which should give more steering, same as using the old HPI hubs with the 415 c-hubs.

HiH
Ed
THX Ed!

I cheked the manuals from the 416/Evo5MS and seen that a 3X0,7mm shimm is added on the kingpin side. That means that the old 950 knuckles should be thicker than the new 1050.
In this case it should be no problem to use the new knuckles with the old C-Hubs.

Greets Blueman

Greetings Rainer
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Old 07-15-2008, 05:26 AM
  #2537  
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Originally Posted by Blueman Austria View Post
THX Ed!

I cheked the manuals from the 416/Evo5MS and seen that a 3X0,7mm shimm is added on the kingpin side. That means that the old 950 knuckles should be thicker than the new 1050.
In this case it should be no problem to use the new knuckles with the old C-Hubs.

Greets Blueman

Greetings Rainer
Forget my post above!!!!

I have seen in the TA05-IFS manual, wich used the new 416 hubs, and the 950 knuckles, that there is also the 3X0,7mm shim installed. Then the 950 and 1050 knuckles should have the same height.

So my clue is when i run the 1050 knuckles in the old 415 C-Hubs with the flangeg tube and kingpin from the 415 than it should be a direct fit i think??

Can anybody measure the height of a 416 steering knuckle?

Greetz Blueman
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Old 07-15-2008, 08:32 AM
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http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info....roducts_id=480

Those seem like they might work okay in the 416 steering rack, and provide 4mm of spacing. I keep bending the aluminum ball studs.
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Old 07-15-2008, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by redbones View Post
I think the 44mm steel swing shafts from tamiya are discontinued since no one carries them. Even the hotbodies version is phased out of existence too.
TAM54078 is a brand new part. I managed to snag a few in my last order. Hopefully they keep making them! :-D I'm actually using 42's in the rear and 46's up front.
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Old 07-15-2008, 10:48 AM
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Seems like I have to keep using the alum. one for now.
I lost faith in them when it got bent from a side-side collision with another car. Not very economical. I never bent steel ones ever.

What blocks are you using up front to make the 46mm fit properly?
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Old 07-15-2008, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by redbones View Post
Seems like I have to keep using the alum. one for now.
I lost faith in them when it got bent from a side-side collision with another car. Not very economical. I never bent steel ones ever.

What blocks are you using up front to make the 46mm fit properly?
Hmm, just the stock blocks. I'll need to see if they still fit okay when I go to the short arms. I may have to put the 44's in there. If you're using the stock blocks, just pull the o-rings out of the one-way.

The aluminum ones are a joke up front. They seem to do okay in the rear, though.
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Old 07-15-2008, 11:50 AM
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I'm using the short lws arms. Found some 42mm steel ones. Guess they should do the trick.

On another account, will a 96spur and 45 tooth combination fit or do I have to shave some material off the top deck?
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Old 07-15-2008, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info....roducts_id=480

Those seem like they might work okay in the 416 steering rack, and provide 4mm of spacing. I keep bending the aluminum ball studs.
could try these... http://www.precisionrc.com/nv/car/pr...oduct_id=53371
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Old 07-15-2008, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by redbones View Post
I'm using the short lws arms. Found some 42mm steel ones. Guess they should do the trick.

On another account, will a 96spur and 45 tooth combination fit or do I have to shave some material off the top deck?
no prolbem
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Old 07-15-2008, 04:14 PM
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I tried Ed's outdoor setup last night and the thing was hooking. I was a cold night and dew was settling on the track which made the rear end snappy in some places so I dropped down one hole on the rear and that settled it right down. I put it on 2nd (0.5s of TQ) but bent a steering rod in the final - the hardened ones should arrive today or tomorrow
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Old 07-15-2008, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Hebiki View Post
i dont want to post pix because i dont want people copying it.
Booooo!
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Old 07-15-2008, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Racing4Evo View Post
Booooo!
hit up PoundItRacing.. he might show you. its definitely a killer paint scheme!
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Old 07-15-2008, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Hebiki View Post
hit up PoundItRacing.. he might show you. its definitely a killer paint scheme!
Thanks Chris. Are you going to BCR this weekend?
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Old 07-15-2008, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info....roducts_id=480

Those seem like they might work okay in the 416 steering rack, and provide 4mm of spacing. I keep bending the aluminum ball studs.

I just use a couple of short pieces of threaded rod, with the std shock mounts, and spacers, i think i have the equivalent of 5.5mm on there, its strong, and the extra ackerman makes the car awesome coming out of the corners, it was way too docile before.

The ball cups are only a mm off the rear arm mount.
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Old 07-16-2008, 03:19 AM
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Originally Posted by POUNDITRACING View Post
Thanks Chris. Are you going to BCR this weekend?
Ray, nope. have prior plans already. probably next weekend if im not at the Tamiya track. did you get the paypal ok?
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