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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Old 07-05-2008, 11:12 AM
  #2461  
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I dont know if you can buy them seperatly

I took them from the TAO5 spool packaging a mate of mine had

Part number for that is.

53877 TA05 Front Direct Coupling
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Old 07-05-2008, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Rogier View Post
I broke an outdrive of my 416 spool. Does anybody knows if I can use the 415 outdrives? Or wihich one do you guys advise?

use the white delrin ones fro the 415.
you can get them at rcmarket.
The metal ones you cant get in parts....
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Old 07-05-2008, 08:28 PM
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Default Roll Center Change....

Question for you guys...

on the rear end of the car.....
if you have a 1mm spacer on the bulkhead...and a 1mm on the outer rear hub...

my question is... will i feel a difference when i use 3mm spacers both on the bulkhead and the hub? basically, what happens when you make this change?
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Old 07-05-2008, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Hebiki View Post
Question for you guys...

on the rear end of the car.....
if you have a 1mm spacer on the bulkhead...and a 1mm on the outer rear hub...

my question is... will i feel a difference when i use 3mm spacers both on the bulkhead and the hub? basically, what happens when you make this change?
Yes, there is a difference in the roll center being lower.
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Old 07-06-2008, 01:12 AM
  #2465  
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Originally Posted by Hebiki View Post
Question for you guys...

on the rear end of the car.....
if you have a 1mm spacer on the bulkhead...and a 1mm on the outer rear hub...

my question is... will i feel a difference when i use 3mm spacers both on the bulkhead and the hub? basically, what happens when you make this change?
Ed answered this question a page or two back

Originally Posted by TryHard
Or to be a bit more scientific...It does alter the roll centre and camber characterisrtics. On the 415, adding 1mm under the inner link lowered the RC by about ~0.6mm, whereas adding 1mm under the outer link lowered it by ~0.8mm. Effectively, the outer adjustment is coarser than the inner. I haven't measured the same on the 416 yet, but it is not hugely different to the 415 in terms of geometry, so they will probably similar there.
so adding 2mm extra under each side of the link will lower the rc by .4mm
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Old 07-06-2008, 02:39 AM
  #2466  
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
Ed answered this question a page or two back


so adding 2mm extra under each side of the link will lower the rc by .4mm
based off your quotes... Ed is saying adding it on the bulkhead OR the outer hub. NOT both?
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Old 07-06-2008, 09:12 AM
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You can certainly add both, just the r/c change is something to be aware of, along with the camber change alteration.

I have to say that the 415 indoors always seemed to prefer the higher rear link, as it seemed to help smooth the rear car out. Seems the 416 likes it too.

Was chatting to an xray racer today, who had 4mm under his rear outer link, and was loving life... seems to be a trend for quite a trend on a number of car atm.

Anyway, just got back from my first day outdoors with the 416, and the second time with 5cell mod (ok, weedy 5cell mod, what with a 4.5, but hey, I'm learning!).

Started off with a setup close to Viktor's reedy race one, except put on Blue/Yellow springs, as I thought the lower traction of a cold, damp uk summer morning might warrent it...
Had two runs in practise. First run, felt good, but was pushing badly through the 180 sweeper off the end of the straight. Brought the car in, and raised the rear roll centre up with 0.5mm of shims under the blocks.
Next run, much better, car pushing much less, and the rear more mobile Seem to lose a little corner speed versus some other cars, so back in again, and changed over to white/blue springs for the first round of Q.

Now that was mroe like it. Despite the track being a little green due to the light rain shower in the previous heat (!!), car felt planted, straight from the off. Managed to get a reasonably clean run in, and just missed out on a 17lapper by about 0.7 of a second... in comparison, Olly Jefferies and Ben Cosgrove did 19's... so not too unhappy given first time in mod to be in that position!

Was noted by a fellow driver that the rear looked to be rolling a bit much, so for the 2nd round, I moved the rear shocks out one hole (from 3-4). Certainly felt better again next run, although was getting a little interesting with rain starting to fall at the end. Kept the car on track, but didn't improve, but was happily the 2nd fastest car in the heat

By now the weather was really starting to turn, ended up for the forth run hurridly finding some blue tack, and bolting on the wet tyres, as the track was really wet from another rain shower. Made no other changes, and yet the car was easily the quickest on track. Caught the first placed driver, overtook cleanly, then pulled away... simply amazing. Actually, tell a lie, I did make a setup change, and that was to put on 1mm of wheel spacers, simply to get the wet tyre wheels to clear the wishbones!
Unfortuantly my speedo decided not to like moisture, so I pulled it off before causing anymore damage. Thankfully, it's running ok again now, so hopefully nothing long term has resulted....

And that was the end of my day, decided not to risk it anymore (as the weather couldn't make it's mind up), so packed up and came home. But overall, very happy, as I now know a) the car works at Wet London, b) it works in the wet and dry!, c) I've got no issues with runtime on the batts (I'll solve that when I get the 3.5 this week ), and d) I seemingly can drive mod fairly compently

Cheers
Ed
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-wlrc-base2.jpg  

Last edited by TryHard; 07-06-2008 at 11:51 AM.
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Old 07-06-2008, 09:29 AM
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Hi Ed,

I saw on your setup that you ran the red sponge in your shocks. Can you tell me what the difference will be in handling when your run that sponge or not? I dont know what happens with the car when i put them in or when i have to run them.

Thanks
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Old 07-06-2008, 09:42 AM
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The way I think of it is simply that it makes the shock a bit more pack. That allows the tyres to stay in contact with the ground better over bumps, as they are being forced down faster.
Certainlly I'm going to have a little play with the shocks next weekend, try 450wt oil all round, but I don't want too change too much, as the car works well atm

Ed
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Old 07-06-2008, 11:45 AM
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Default TRF416 Diff Covers

.

Last edited by alf.skaar; 07-12-2008 at 01:45 AM.
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Old 07-06-2008, 11:58 AM
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opps... noticed some errors in the above sheet... now changed it to the correct one.

Cheers
Ed
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Old 07-06-2008, 12:23 PM
  #2472  
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@Ed!

Hy! I compared your setup with the manual of the 416, and i see that you give 3mm spacers in the rear (at the bulkhead and also the upright) instead of 0,5mm.

How does that affect the handling? is it a better choice for any type of surface? (tarmac and carpet).

At the front you lowerd the inner (bulkhead) one from 5 to 3mm. This should raise the rollcenter. Right?

I dont have a 416 but a 415MSXX MRE07, so the benefits should also work on my car?

THX in advance, Blueman
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Old 07-06-2008, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by habis View Post
use the white delrin ones fro the 415.
you can get them at rcmarket.
The metal ones you cant get in parts....
No delrin at rcmarket, rcmodel, precisionrc.... any other places where they are willing to ship to Europe??
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Old 07-06-2008, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Hebiki View Post
based off your quotes... Ed is saying adding it on the bulkhead OR the outer hub. NOT both?
Yep thats why you split the difference

e.g.
+2mm on hub = rc raised by 1.2mm
+2mm on bulkhead = rc lowered by 1.6mm
1.2-1.6= -.4mm
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Old 07-06-2008, 05:31 PM
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Thanks for posting the setup Ed, it's almost identical to what I've been running outdoors as well, though I've been using hole 2 on the front arms and much lower front/slighly lower rear RCs. I'll give it a go your way at the next meet and see how it compares
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