Grizzbob

iTrader: (2)

Well, first off, I'd go with softer springs all around, maybe blue fronts & yellow rears(that's what I used on mine at the Memphis TCS & also at the Jonesborough, AR track where the ROAR Asphalt Nats will be held). Also, I'd add some shims under the inner camber links up front(but just try a little at a time), & you might also play with the front shock mounting positions & if you're still using the stock sway bars, try taking the rear one off & go with a red front(it's the thinnest one). Not promising anything, but you might give those things a try & see if you like it....

R.Ace.Driver

Thanks Pokes,
i'll try it. BTW what oil and which mounts do you drive ?

Greetings

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

I finally ran my 416 tonight and I am very impressed. Running d/c and xa/d with spool, short arms, 5mm steering spacers, .5mm under the rear blocks and everything else kit and the car was just great, tonnes of steering and plenty of grip. I'm going to go to xa/e because it was a little loose in the slow stuff and probably add a spacer under the front camber link to get a little more turn in but it's 90% there on the first run, leaves my t2 for dead

I'll post a full setup with cambers, rebound, droop, etc on Ed's site once I've had a bit more time to play

redbones

Try adding spacers to the rear of the front suspension block to give it some anti-dive. This in turn will give you less castor, making the car respond better(at the expense of stability). I also moved the entire chassis "forward" 1mm by changing the suspension shaft spacers.
I also used the inner mounting hole on the steering knuckle for the ball stud. This makes the steering faster, and give it more ackerman. You will need to adjust the spacers on the steering rack if the turnbuckle hits the suspension mount.

These settings gave me a car that has lots of steering, good for very technical tracks. A bit unstable at high speeds, but negligible. Oh, this is at 23T.

Grizzbob

iTrader: (2)

I played around with several but in the end I was using the mounts that came with the car(1XB & 1D, I believe, for 3 degrees rear toe), & if my memory serves, I have 40wt in the front shocks & 30wt in the rear(with 3-hole pistons). Oh, & btw, Pokes isn't my name, it's just part of my signature(it's a cheer at my Alma Mater, Oklahoma State University)....

fadzli

iTrader: (6)

just received my short arms. i have the rear short arm picture posted by CraigM. not sure about the fron short arm. how should i put it, reverse or just as the picture in the instruction?

R.Ace.Driver

Grizzbob and redbones, thanks for your answers. I will try to set the car as you said and then we will look. I hope the steering gets a little better .

Greetings

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

The holes in the front arms are the same either way I think, so it doesnt make a difference

Turbonium

iTrader: (27)

no, the holes for mounting the shocks are slightly offset, so as to give different mounting spots. kinda like the 2/3 holes on the reg LW arms, just left the one out.

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53928

I stand corrected. Better take a look and make sure both of mine are around the same way

fadzli

iTrader: (6)

which is in front and which is at the back? A or B?

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

Has anyone got one of these

http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....oducts_id=7149

I thought the 416 turnbuckles were 4mm?

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

So the short arm setup for carpet... is that pretty much the standard now? How about in extremely high traction? I had pretty good results with my car when it was nearly stock, but if I can squeeze out some more speed, that would be great. Some of the US races get pretty insane traction when you're running on the same track as the foam sedans.

Anybody bringing their 416 to IIC?

pug 205 gti

You thought right craig the 4mm one i have is anodized blue not black.
It does seem odd for mushroom to be advertising the wrong tool for the job?.:weird

http://demonpowerproducts.co.uk/prod...oducts_id=2881

After rereading my post originally on the 415 thread i realised that the part numbers are the same!
So that will work on your turnbuckles.When i bought mine i thought it wouldnt work but it fits like a glove!.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Use the outer hole on the A side to start with on both ends of the arms. This is position 2 for the shocks. The B side has positions 1 and 3, the A has 2 and 4.

HiH
Ed