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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Old 05-03-2008, 03:13 AM
  #2056  
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Default What is wrong with my setting?

Can someone please point out which of my setting is wrong? I ran my 416 at my local track today and it keeps oversteering and is not very stable in the straight.

I run as follows:

4.0 brushless with 6 cells
Toe - 1 deg toe out front, 2 deg toe in rear
Camber - 2 deg front, 2.5 deg rear
Suspension - Blue spring front, 60 deg oil, red spring rear, 40 deg oil
Shock position - front #1, rear #5 (counting from the bottom)
Height - front 4mm, rear 4.5mm

The track is tarmac with good traction, but I keep oversteering at corners, and the car feels not stable on the straight. What am I doing wrong?

Help...
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Old 05-03-2008, 03:15 AM
  #2057  
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This is the track that I run
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-tracklayout060209a.jpg  
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Old 05-03-2008, 06:26 AM
  #2058  
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very nice track

i want a 416 :-(
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Old 05-03-2008, 06:28 AM
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Pull a setup from Tryhard's site .. 4mm sounds very low to me ??? sounds like you are bottoming the car
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Old 05-03-2008, 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by CraigM
have you guys changed the lower shock pivot balls over to allen heads? I was thinking of running a long grub screw in and putting the socket style balls that nitro tourers run to reduce wear on the arms

oh speaking of arms, which way around do you run the short rear arms - with the wider set of holes to the back and narrower to the front or the other way around?


53334, they are part of the V plastic set
Hey Craig. I started with the second hole when counting from the hub end of the arm. This is very close to the kit hole on the std arms so it's a good starting point. Looking forward to seeing your 416 on the track! Cheers, Vincent.
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Old 05-03-2008, 08:25 AM
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What is the advantage to switching to the Short LWT Arms?
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Old 05-03-2008, 08:59 AM
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BBOY, you didn't mention your droop settings, 3mm front and rear is a good starting point. Also I would change to 3 degree rear toe and 5 mm ride height. I assume your running a spool. if not, put one in.
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Old 05-03-2008, 09:37 AM
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I had the same problems that bboy is experiencing...spool fixed it!
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Old 05-03-2008, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by bboy
This is the track that I run
Small size track !
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Old 05-03-2008, 10:00 AM
  #2065  
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Try using 3 degree toe in in rear 2 degree is not enough and hardly ever used with that much motor
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Old 05-03-2008, 12:15 PM
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bboy, make your life more simple and just try one of the setups posted on tryhards site. You will only have to make minor adjustments to suit your track or driving style.

jontang001, its an adjustment not too many people play with. I have tried alot of different shock adjustments at many different tracks. The effect of rebound directly impacts the way the car handles bumps and negotiates quick switchbacks(aka shicanes). I have found the more rebound i use, makes the car more responsive/aggresive but can handle bumpy tracks much better, less rebound the opposite is true. The reason why rebound works best for bumps is rebound keeps the tire in contact with the track after you hit a bump, the longer you car stays in contact with the track the more stable it is. As for shicanes your car needs to change directions quickly, so with alot of rebound your car will be able to transfer the weight L/R quicker with assitance from the rebound. For me i almost always run full rebound just because i like a responsive car and if there is any inperfections in the track my car will keeps its composure. Hope this was not to confusing!
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Old 05-03-2008, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by CraigM
have you guys changed the lower shock pivot balls over to allen heads? I was thinking of running a long grub screw in and putting the socket style balls that nitro tourers run to reduce wear on the arms

oh speaking of arms, which way around do you run the short rear arms - with the wider set of holes to the back and narrower to the front or the other way around?


53334, they are part of the V plastic set
I'm using the hexheaded ball joints... work nice and easy for removing the shocks 5mm long ones are fine for this.

As for the arms, depends on what setting you want. Hole 2 (which the one most tend to run in), is the outer most hole on the inner set.

HiH
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Old 05-03-2008, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Jimmy Jacobson
Try using 3 degree toe in in rear 2 degree is not enough and hardly ever used with that much motor
I'd go with that to start off with too... 2 is not a lot for 4.0!
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Old 05-03-2008, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by TRFwhitey
bboy, make your life more simple and just try one of the setups posted on tryhards site. You will only have to make minor adjustments to suit your track or driving style.

jontang001, its an adjustment not too many people play with. I have tried alot of different shock adjustments at many different tracks. The effect of rebound directly impacts the way the car handles bumps and negotiates quick switchbacks(aka shicanes). I have found the more rebound i use, makes the car more responsive/aggresive but can handle bumpy tracks much better, less rebound the opposite is true. The reason why rebound works best for bumps is rebound keeps the tire in contact with the track after you hit a bump, the longer you car stays in contact with the track the more stable it is. As for shicanes your car needs to change directions quickly, so with alot of rebound your car will be able to transfer the weight L/R quicker with assitance from the rebound. For me i almost always run full rebound just because i like a responsive car and if there is any inperfections in the track my car will keeps its composure. Hope this was not to confusing!
Cheers for that explanation Corey, makes a lot of sense. If you consider that the European TRF team have been running 2mm or so of rebound on carpet tracks with rubbers, they can afford to give up a lot of the bump stabillity (you would hope a carpet track doesn't have bumps ), but use a little rebound to help with direction change.
Outdoors I tend to find it's more about responsiveness, so then move to more rebound.

Cheers
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Old 05-03-2008, 10:16 PM
  #2070  
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Tamiya have released a 2.5mm carpet chassis for the TRF416 here is a pic and checkout http://www.tamiya.com/japan/news/news0806/news1.htm for all the details and a direct route to the tamiya page.
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-tamiyatrf416chassis.jpg  
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