Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X >

Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Like Tree4Likes

Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Old 04-28-2008, 01:58 PM
  #2011  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 3,575
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Jimmy Jacobson View Post
Does anyone know what Type/brand Lipo would be good for a KO PROPO UR-1
When it comes to transmitter LIPO pack I have No idea thanks
Hit E.J. or O.D. up.

T.o.p. has one now.
racenut123 is offline  
Old 04-28-2008, 01:59 PM
  #2012  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 3,575
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Default

The Mod Gods pickin on mere mortals!



Originally Posted by J Stark View Post
Here's a little video of me at my home track here in the Bay Area with the 416


http://zjwmedia.com/joomla/Movies/Ma...RC_4_26_08.mov
racenut123 is offline  
Old 04-28-2008, 02:06 PM
  #2013  
Tech Apprentice
 
J Stark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Santa Rosa, California
Posts: 95
Default

I'll be back in Mod soon.....

John, you ready for the warm-up race?
J Stark is offline  
Old 04-28-2008, 02:09 PM
  #2014  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 3,575
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Default

I think so.
racenut123 is offline  
Old 04-28-2008, 03:11 PM
  #2015  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 86
Default re

Hey guys, this past weekend i did quite a bit of testing in prep for the reedy race. This was my first time out with the car on asphalt since it has only reached above zero degrees these past 3 weeks. I did not do as much setup testing as i would have liked becausemy priority was more of which tire additives worked best. Even with the minor tweaks i tried, the car was extremely balanced and is showing a ton of potential...

I have included the setup which i ran, this would be a great starting point for anyone running on asphalt. low or high grip.
TRFwhitey is offline  
Old 04-28-2008, 03:15 PM
  #2016  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 86
Default re

here it is
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-asphalt-setup1.jpg  
TRFwhitey is offline  
Old 04-29-2008, 11:43 PM
  #2017  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
 
CraigM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 7,009
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

3.5 degrees of rear toe is pretty extreme. You must have a lot of steering
CraigM is offline  
Old 04-29-2008, 11:50 PM
  #2018  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
JimmyMac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: NC
Posts: 4,447
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

My setup only uses 2 degrees 1A/1E. But then again I'm only running 27t stock and 13.5.
JimmyMac is offline  
Old 04-30-2008, 02:22 AM
  #2019  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Dresden, germany
Posts: 56
Default

Originally Posted by TRFwhitey View Post
here it is
Hi Corey
May I ask you about your setup....what is the "full" rebound stroke means?
And how you define the droop of your car?
Sorry about my stupid question...and thanks in advance!!!
jontang001 is offline  
Old 04-30-2008, 02:58 AM
  #2020  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
 
CraigM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 7,009
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by jontang001 View Post
Hi Corey
May I ask you about your setup....what is the "full" rebound stroke means?
And how you define the droop of your car?
Sorry about my stupid question...and thanks in advance!!!
I think by full he means he's not using downstops. Droop is measured with droop blocks and a droop gauge. If you don't have a droop gauge sit the car on a setup board and unscrew the droop screws until the arms barely touch the board, then measure with verniers from the board to the top of the axels. This becomes your zero value and you can go up from there

I'm midway through building my 416, it's going together pretty nicely but I think I should have bought another B block so I could run B/B at the front. I'll start with DD and no wheel spacers and see how that goes
CraigM is offline  
Old 04-30-2008, 03:12 AM
  #2021  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
 
TryHard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Sydney, NSW
Posts: 5,370
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Actually, I'm pretty sure that given he's quoted droop elsewhere on the sheet, he's refering rebound as too the shock action. (not a lot of droop though!)

By full rebound, I believe he's stating that when the shock shaft is pushed in, it will extend fully of it's own accord when released. Easy to set by just leaving the piston and shaft fully extended when building the shock up.

HiH
Ed
TryHard is offline  
Old 04-30-2008, 06:36 AM
  #2022  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (30)
 
STLNLST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 9,531
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by J Stark View Post
I'll be back in Mod soon.....

John, you ready for the warm-up race?
I have no Tamiya's to pick on until after the Reedy.....LOL
STLNLST is offline  
Old 04-30-2008, 06:38 AM
  #2023  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (30)
 
STLNLST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 9,531
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Jimmy Jacobson View Post
Does anyone know what Type/brand Lipo would be good for a KO PROPO UR-1
When it comes to transmitter LIPO pack I have No idea thanks
This isn't a gas race. Throw in some regular batteries and come have some fun. You coming to the warm up race? Tell the wife I said hello and I'll see you guys this weekend or in a couple of weeks.
STLNLST is offline  
Old 04-30-2008, 08:28 AM
  #2024  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Dresden, germany
Posts: 56
Default

Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Actually, I'm pretty sure that given he's quoted droop elsewhere on the sheet, he's refering rebound as too the shock action. (not a lot of droop though!)

By full rebound, I believe he's stating that when the shock shaft is pushed in, it will extend fully of it's own accord when released. Easy to set by just leaving the piston and shaft fully extended when building the shock up.

HiH
Ed
Thanks you guys...but...
Maybe I had some misunderstanding between "rebound" and "droop".
So, the "rebound" which can measure by a guide like the one in the HUDY set? I always use it to define the rebound bt the end of the pin of arms.
And the "droop" which can measure by using a normal ruler to check the high difference when the point of tire leaveing?
Because I always care about my rebound and leave droop behind....
Please teach me...master...
jontang001 is offline  
Old 04-30-2008, 08:58 AM
  #2025  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
 
TryHard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Sydney, NSW
Posts: 5,370
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by jontang001 View Post
Thanks you guys...but...
Maybe I had some misunderstanding between "rebound" and "droop".
So, the "rebound" which can measure by a guide like the one in the HUDY set? I always use it to define the rebound bt the end of the pin of arms.
And the "droop" which can measure by using a normal ruler to check the high difference when the point of tire leaveing?
Because I always care about my rebound and leave droop behind....
Please teach me...master...
here we go...

Droop;
This is the term used for measuring the overall downwards travel of the suspension. You set it by adjusting the set screws in the lower arms. I tend to use a gauge to set (flat against the chassis, and then read off the value underneath the outer hinge pin), although there are other methods (at least two I can think of).

Rebound;
This is the term used for measuring how much rebound your shocks have. To set this remove the shock from the car, take off the springs, then push the shaft into the shock body. You'll see that the shaft should move back out of it's own accord when you let go. Thats rebound.
You can vary it by setting the piston to a certain position in the shock when you build the shocks. To set rebound, leave the piston at the bottom of the shock body, and pore the oil on top. Remove all the air by gently pushing the piston up and down, then leave stand for a while (or use a shock pump). When you can't see ay air bubbles in the oil, Hold the shock body, and push the shaft in too your required rebound level (Make sure that your pushing equal amounts of shaft up per shock... there are a few tricks you can use here that I'll mention later on with piccies). Then place the diaphram on top, taking care not to a) adjust the piston position b) introduce air into the shock. Carry on building the shock, and when you push the piston in, you shoulc have your desired level of rebound

For full rebound, just leave the piston at the bottom of the shock body during building.

HiH
Ed
TryHard is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.