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Old 04-28-2008, 02:58 PM   #2011
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Originally Posted by Jimmy Jacobson View Post
Does anyone know what Type/brand Lipo would be good for a KO PROPO UR-1
When it comes to transmitter LIPO pack I have No idea thanks
Hit E.J. or O.D. up.

T.o.p. has one now.
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Old 04-28-2008, 02:59 PM   #2012
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The Mod Gods pickin on mere mortals!



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Here's a little video of me at my home track here in the Bay Area with the 416


http://zjwmedia.com/joomla/Movies/Ma...RC_4_26_08.mov
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Old 04-28-2008, 03:06 PM   #2013
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I'll be back in Mod soon.....

John, you ready for the warm-up race?
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Old 04-28-2008, 03:09 PM   #2014
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I think so.
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Old 04-28-2008, 04:11 PM   #2015
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Hey guys, this past weekend i did quite a bit of testing in prep for the reedy race. This was my first time out with the car on asphalt since it has only reached above zero degrees these past 3 weeks. I did not do as much setup testing as i would have liked becausemy priority was more of which tire additives worked best. Even with the minor tweaks i tried, the car was extremely balanced and is showing a ton of potential...

I have included the setup which i ran, this would be a great starting point for anyone running on asphalt. low or high grip.
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Old 04-28-2008, 04:15 PM   #2016
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here it is
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-asphalt-setup1.jpg  
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Old 04-30-2008, 12:43 AM   #2017
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3.5 degrees of rear toe is pretty extreme. You must have a lot of steering
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Old 04-30-2008, 12:50 AM   #2018
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My setup only uses 2 degrees 1A/1E. But then again I'm only running 27t stock and 13.5.
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Old 04-30-2008, 03:22 AM   #2019
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Originally Posted by TRFwhitey View Post
here it is
Hi Corey
May I ask you about your setup....what is the "full" rebound stroke means?
And how you define the droop of your car?
Sorry about my stupid question...and thanks in advance!!!
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Old 04-30-2008, 03:58 AM   #2020
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Hi Corey
May I ask you about your setup....what is the "full" rebound stroke means?
And how you define the droop of your car?
Sorry about my stupid question...and thanks in advance!!!
I think by full he means he's not using downstops. Droop is measured with droop blocks and a droop gauge. If you don't have a droop gauge sit the car on a setup board and unscrew the droop screws until the arms barely touch the board, then measure with verniers from the board to the top of the axels. This becomes your zero value and you can go up from there

I'm midway through building my 416, it's going together pretty nicely but I think I should have bought another B block so I could run B/B at the front. I'll start with DD and no wheel spacers and see how that goes
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Old 04-30-2008, 04:12 AM   #2021
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Actually, I'm pretty sure that given he's quoted droop elsewhere on the sheet, he's refering rebound as too the shock action. (not a lot of droop though!)

By full rebound, I believe he's stating that when the shock shaft is pushed in, it will extend fully of it's own accord when released. Easy to set by just leaving the piston and shaft fully extended when building the shock up.

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Old 04-30-2008, 07:36 AM   #2022
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J Stark View Post
I'll be back in Mod soon.....

John, you ready for the warm-up race?
I have no Tamiya's to pick on until after the Reedy.....LOL
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Old 04-30-2008, 07:38 AM   #2023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmy Jacobson View Post
Does anyone know what Type/brand Lipo would be good for a KO PROPO UR-1
When it comes to transmitter LIPO pack I have No idea thanks
This isn't a gas race. Throw in some regular batteries and come have some fun. You coming to the warm up race? Tell the wife I said hello and I'll see you guys this weekend or in a couple of weeks.
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Old 04-30-2008, 09:28 AM   #2024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Actually, I'm pretty sure that given he's quoted droop elsewhere on the sheet, he's refering rebound as too the shock action. (not a lot of droop though!)

By full rebound, I believe he's stating that when the shock shaft is pushed in, it will extend fully of it's own accord when released. Easy to set by just leaving the piston and shaft fully extended when building the shock up.

HiH
Ed
Thanks you guys...but...
Maybe I had some misunderstanding between "rebound" and "droop".
So, the "rebound" which can measure by a guide like the one in the HUDY set? I always use it to define the rebound bt the end of the pin of arms.
And the "droop" which can measure by using a normal ruler to check the high difference when the point of tire leaveing?
Because I always care about my rebound and leave droop behind....
Please teach me...master...
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Old 04-30-2008, 09:58 AM   #2025
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jontang001 View Post
Thanks you guys...but...
Maybe I had some misunderstanding between "rebound" and "droop".
So, the "rebound" which can measure by a guide like the one in the HUDY set? I always use it to define the rebound bt the end of the pin of arms.
And the "droop" which can measure by using a normal ruler to check the high difference when the point of tire leaveing?
Because I always care about my rebound and leave droop behind....
Please teach me...master...
here we go...

Droop;
This is the term used for measuring the overall downwards travel of the suspension. You set it by adjusting the set screws in the lower arms. I tend to use a gauge to set (flat against the chassis, and then read off the value underneath the outer hinge pin), although there are other methods (at least two I can think of).

Rebound;
This is the term used for measuring how much rebound your shocks have. To set this remove the shock from the car, take off the springs, then push the shaft into the shock body. You'll see that the shaft should move back out of it's own accord when you let go. Thats rebound.
You can vary it by setting the piston to a certain position in the shock when you build the shocks. To set rebound, leave the piston at the bottom of the shock body, and pore the oil on top. Remove all the air by gently pushing the piston up and down, then leave stand for a while (or use a shock pump). When you can't see ay air bubbles in the oil, Hold the shock body, and push the shaft in too your required rebound level (Make sure that your pushing equal amounts of shaft up per shock... there are a few tricks you can use here that I'll mention later on with piccies). Then place the diaphram on top, taking care not to a) adjust the piston position b) introduce air into the shock. Carry on building the shock, and when you push the piston in, you shoulc have your desired level of rebound

For full rebound, just leave the piston at the bottom of the shock body during building.

HiH
Ed
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