Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
#1892

Try some kick up. It helps my car gain some steering in the fast long corners. Start off with .5mm kick up.
#1893

Hi,
Was wondering, why is it that Tamiya does not seem to have any stock of the TRF416? It seems like they are not really manufacturing. It is their latest Tamiya racing factory car right?
Is there an underlying reason behind it?
Thanks
Was wondering, why is it that Tamiya does not seem to have any stock of the TRF416? It seems like they are not really manufacturing. It is their latest Tamiya racing factory car right?
Is there an underlying reason behind it?
Thanks
#1894

definately the latest. and with so many podium finishes too. i think they may have something up their sleeves at the moment. if u can get hold of one, get it anyway, its a good car. parts are easier and easier to source as well
#1895
#1896

i was comparing my setup with jilles DHI setup and realized that when specifying the number of spacers used for camber links,etc , it makes sense to specify the type of ball nut. see the pic. its at least 0.5mm difference which is significant enough.
any ideas for standardizing notation for ball nut type?
perhaps:
on left requiring grub screw through it - "415ball nut"
on right - "hex head ball nut"
(oh, and i would never use such a badly damaged 415ball nut!
)
any ideas for standardizing notation for ball nut type?
perhaps:
on left requiring grub screw through it - "415ball nut"
on right - "hex head ball nut"
(oh, and i would never use such a badly damaged 415ball nut!

#1897

i was comparing my setup with jilles DHI setup and realized that when specifying the number of spacers used for camber links,etc , it makes sense to specify the type of ball nut. see the pic. its at least 0.5mm difference which is significant enough.
any ideas for standardizing notation for ball nut type?
perhaps:
on left requiring grub screw through it - "415ball nut"
on right - "hex head ball nut"
(oh, and i would never use such a badly damaged 415ball nut!
)
any ideas for standardizing notation for ball nut type?
perhaps:
on left requiring grub screw through it - "415ball nut"
on right - "hex head ball nut"
(oh, and i would never use such a badly damaged 415ball nut!

For example, with 5mm of shims under the front inner ball link, is for the hex headed type. With a std nut type, you only need to use 4mm.
HiH
Ed
#1898
Tech Initiate

Hi people,
Can anybody give me the internal ratio of this car?
And a info about the most fragile and wearable part’s… and if isn’t to much, the hop ups that the car needs to be more competitive.
Thanks in advance
Can anybody give me the internal ratio of this car?
And a info about the most fragile and wearable part’s… and if isn’t to much, the hop ups that the car needs to be more competitive.
Thanks in advance

#1899
#1900

The difference between the two is actually 1mm. As I always use the hexheaded jobs, I'll always state it the number of shims. To convert over to the standard ones, you need to use 1mm less of shims.
For example, with 5mm of shims under the front inner ball link, is for the hex headed type. With a std nut type, you only need to use 4mm.
HiH
Ed
For example, with 5mm of shims under the front inner ball link, is for the hex headed type. With a std nut type, you only need to use 4mm.
HiH
Ed
#1901

I'm not sure if it'll be a good idea. It's only a good idea if they use a different ball stud than what's in the kit. The only ball stud that is affected is the one you show. There is a short version of that ball stud that matches the hex head ball stud screw thing-a-majaber's height. If you are worried about strength, go for the steel hex heads. Just curious, but why are you using the ball nuts instead of the hex heads?
#1902

I agree with Jimmy here.... If your deviating from the kit, it's worth noting, however otherwise you should assume that it's as kit. Given I still run all my links as kit, no need to note it down, IMO.
And, if you know the difference between the two, it's fairly easy to take that into account when making up setup sheets, just add 1mm to the shim settings if your using the nuts.
Regards
Ed
And, if you know the difference between the two, it's fairly easy to take that into account when making up setup sheets, just add 1mm to the shim settings if your using the nuts.
Regards
Ed
#1903

With some many big wins recently, I was hoping to see more setups from the factory drivers. I would especially like the see Jilles' setup in the recent Dutch race - asphalt on rubbers... C'mon Tamiya, let's have 'em!!!
#1904

I think they've made soo many changes between all the rounds, it would be hard for them to pin down an exact setup that they used. I think they are just learning the car the best they can before the Worlds. Much like what I'm doing before the Nats. Try this and that. See what does what and how and where. Wish Jilles would come back on here. I'm sure he is busy though. But it would be nice for some to have an asphalt starting setup for a spool. Would like to see what changes they made vs a oneway.
Hey Ed, what is your other hobby that it takes you away from RC for the summer? Just curious.
Hey Ed, what is your other hobby that it takes you away from RC for the summer? Just curious.
#1905

I think they've made soo many changes between all the rounds, it would be hard for them to pin down an exact setup that they used. I think they are just learning the car the best they can before the Worlds. Much like what I'm doing before the Nats. Try this and that. See what does what and how and where. Wish Jilles would come back on here. I'm sure he is busy though. But it would be nice for some to have an asphalt starting setup for a spool. Would like to see what changes they made vs a oneway.
Hey Ed, what is your other hobby that it takes you away from RC for the summer? Just curious.
Hey Ed, what is your other hobby that it takes you away from RC for the summer? Just curious.

As for my other hobby... some pics attached. I'm far left in the first one (Can just see the face with sunnys on), in the red top in the second (yup, showing my arse), and far right in the third (black and white top)... it's a bit more active than RC, but just a tweaky

Ed