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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Old 03-21-2008, 01:48 PM
  #1681  
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
On the DHI setup that Jilles posted, does anybody know what those downstop settings (6mm up front, 5 in the rear) would be if measured as uptravel, or droop over ride height.

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/tami...2008011113.htm
i believe that is with the wheels off, chassis rested on blocks, using droop gauge (measured to the outer bottom of the suspension arm)

hope you know what i mean
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Old 03-21-2008, 03:17 PM
  #1682  
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Download the manual, link on Tryhard's site


Originally Posted by Chill_Will View Post
I looking to buy the front diff from Tamiya. http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53921

What gear do I need to go with it? Part number if you know it.

I know this is the 416 thread but I need to get this ordered.
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Old 03-21-2008, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by andyuk99 View Post
Download the manual, link on Tryhard's site
Try here
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Old 03-21-2008, 04:48 PM
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Nice site ..
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Old 03-21-2008, 05:12 PM
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Evening all,

Just a quick one. Been browsing the web today, and came across the new Cyclone TC spec. Being the enquiring sort, had a little look at it looks nice... but taken a few bits from tamiya to be sure (the diff certainly ).

Anyway, spotted the new roll bar mounting system it uses, very neat, with a hex headed ball joint for adjustment, picture here. Quite impressed with that, so had a little rumage in my pit box, and came up with this.

Simply used an 8mm long hex headed ball stud, and a standard ball cup. The ball cup's internal diameter is a little large, and the grub screws don't grip too tight, but it all holds together well enought. Did need to remove 10mm off the end of the roll bar though to keep the ball joint in the same place. Thankfully, this was a spare one i had, as I'm a bit of a colour matchin bitch, and use the milky blue springs and bars on my car

I'm going to grab some of thoose Cyclone bits when they are released, and see if the work better (should do, as the end of the bar will be closer to the ball joint).

Cheers
Ed
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-dscf0001.jpg   Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-dscf0004.jpg   Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-dscf0005.jpg   Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-dscf0009.jpg  
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Old 03-21-2008, 06:02 PM
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Damn, ya beat me to it! haha. I was gonna look at other options too. The new Cyclone is a much better way to "detweak" your sway bars.
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Old 03-21-2008, 07:04 PM
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Anyone know what spacers Jilles uses in the 2 spots with the "?" in the picture.

Also what is the deal with the no urethane bushing or black O rings in the shocks? I did what the manual said I didn't know I could or "should" leave them out.
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X-question.jpg  
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Old 03-21-2008, 07:57 PM
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If trying to run D D in the front and I have a 415 block and the stock 416 D block that I am using in the front rear. Does the 415 need to be flipped or any shims under it to be like if I had the 416 block?

Also currently I only have a1 1b and 1xb blocks to run in the back any suggestions on what I should use until the 1xa and 1E get here...
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Old 03-21-2008, 08:54 PM
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I am trying to copy Jiles setup and looking at the rear should I have 3 deg toe in or toe out? I assume it is toe in but I am not 100% sure...

With the current blocks I have I can get to 2.5 deg toe in or out if I use 1xb and 1b. Right now I have 1b in the very back and ixb in the front. This sound right?
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Old 03-21-2008, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Travis S View Post
I am trying to copy Jiles setup and looking at the rear should I have 3 deg toe in or toe out? I assume it is toe in but I am not 100% sure...

With the current blocks I have I can get to 2.5 deg toe in or out if I use 1xb and 1b. Right now I have 1b in the very back and ixb in the front. This sound right?
It must be toe-in, if you set up a car with toe-out on your rear axle, you won't be able to drive the car as the rear will be very instable. Toe-in introduce some lateral forces on your tire as the car move forward. In straight, you have the same amount of lateral force on each side converging to the center line of the chassis, both wheel pointing in one direction. With toe-out, each wheel points in its own direction, the lateral force diverges from the center line, making the car "snaking".

Hope that helpful and clear!
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Old 03-22-2008, 01:46 AM
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Tavis

Jilles used 3mm of spacers in both spots (inside and outside). Removing the bushings and o-rings in the shocks helps to remove some pack, and smooths out the shock movement. As a carpet tracks are generally very smooth, it helps to stabilise the car. With bumps on the track, running the bushings helps to keep the wheels in contact with the ground, as it has more resisitance to high speed movement.

As for the front blocks. The 415 block can be run flat on the chassis, if your using it in the front/front position. No shims or flipping required.
However, if you have to run it in the frotn/rear position, then you'll need 5mm of spacers underneath.
That why I prefer to use the 416 block, as it only requires 3mm, and when coupled with a longer screw, seems to be a bit stronger.

XB and B gives only 2 of rear toe in, as there is 0.5step between each block (E, D, C, B, A, X, XA, XB, XC, XD). The 415 XA and E to get the 3, or use the XB with a D. And yes your right, it should always be toe-in on the rear. If your desperate to run the car, run it as you have. What class are you going to be running? In stock, I tend to run between 1.5 and 2 anyway, as the car has so much rear traction it doesn't need the toe-in to improve that

HiH
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Old 03-22-2008, 03:02 AM
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Has any one tried Lipo on this car? I am wondering how I would mount it since there are no more batteries to slot into the battery holes.

Lately, my battery tape breaks very often since I am braking a lot...

Go Go 416!

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Old 03-22-2008, 03:14 AM
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I am using Orion 4800's and I made some plywood blocks (same thickness as the chassis) the size of the battery slots and shoe gooed them to the battery to hold it in place. It works great. You have to space the 4800 out a little to get to the connector ports. I put one strip of sick on weight on the inside of the battery and it works as a spacer.

This works great, never a problem losing a battery. I only put plywood blocks on the front and rear of the battery which go into the front and rear battery slot.

Originally Posted by bboy View Post
Has any one tried Lipo on this car? I am wondering how I would mount it since there are no more batteries to slot into the battery holes.

Lately, my battery tape breaks very often since I am braking a lot...

Go Go 416!

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Old 03-22-2008, 04:44 AM
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Tavis

Jilles used 3mm of spacers in both spots (inside and outside). Removing the bushings and o-rings in the shocks helps to remove some pack, and smooths out the shock movement. As a carpet tracks are generally very smooth, it helps to stabilise the car. With bumps on the track, running the bushings helps to keep the wheels in contact with the ground, as it has more resisitance to high speed movement.

As for the front blocks. The 415 block can be run flat on the chassis, if your using it in the front/front position. No shims or flipping required.
However, if you have to run it in the frotn/rear position, then you'll need 5mm of spacers underneath.
That why I prefer to use the 416 block, as it only requires 3mm, and when coupled with a longer screw, seems to be a bit stronger.

XB and B gives only 2 of rear toe in, as there is 0.5step between each block (E, D, C, B, A, X, XA, XB, XC, XD). The 415 XA and E to get the 3, or use the XB with a D. And yes your right, it should always be toe-in on the rear. If your desperate to run the car, run it as you have. What class are you going to be running? In stock, I tend to run between 1.5 and 2 anyway, as the car has so much rear traction it doesn't need the toe-in to improve that

HiH
Ed
Thanks for your help once again! I will take apart the shocks and try going this route since I will be running on carpet as well.

So he has 3mm in front above the C hub as well as the inside??? Just wondering if that ball stud will be long enough or not to run that high and that seems like it would push the ball cup into the wheel and cause rubbing. I have to go to work so I don't have time to try it right now.

One other question about the wheel hexes. Does he use the stock hexes or something wider? Also are the stock ones 3 or 4mm wide?

I am running 13.5 or 10.5 class with lipos.
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Old 03-22-2008, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Travis S View Post
Thanks for your help once again! I will take apart the shocks and try going this route since I will be running on carpet as well.

So he has 3mm in front above the C hub as well as the inside??? Just wondering if that ball stud will be long enough or not to run that high and that seems like it would push the ball cup into the wheel and cause rubbing. I have to go to work so I don't have time to try it right now.

One other question about the wheel hexes. Does he use the stock hexes or something wider? Also are the stock ones 3 or 4mm wide?

I am running 13.5 or 10.5 class with lipos.
The 3mm inside-outside is for the rear only. Upfront no spacer outside and 3-5mm inside. He used stock hexes which are 4mm.
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