Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
#1561
Thanks for the input guys.
Yesterday I was alittle scared to try some more toe-out up front because my rear end was loose. But it was loose mid-out. What I did to correct that was camber gain. I had 2mm under the inner link in the rear. I went down to 1mm and it solved that issue. I may try more toe-out up front as I know that is a powerful adjustment for entry. Wish I had more time to test.
I may try higher oil in my car now that you suggested it.. I used to run heavier oil when I ran my Yok years ago. It seemed to like it. So I may try it on this car.
Ed, I'm running D/D up front (I run LWS arms). And no axle shims. Wish I had a C block that I didn't have to mod out. Maybe I'll just wait for Tamiya to come out with one. That or just a C/B setting... OR.... E/D? up front? haha.
Bmmer, are you running the kit 105 spur? If so, you can not use that spur for brushless 17.5~10.5 motors. It's too large. I run a 102 spur and the largest pinion I can use is a 46 before the pinions start to touch the top deck. This combo gives you about a 4.55 final. I use this for 13.5. You could go with a 96 spur if you want to run 13.5 or 10.5. Or get maybe an 88 spur if you want to run 17.5. I have yet to try 17.5. But I will soon.
Travis, MRE spool with 501/416 oneway pulley (or just use the pulley in your kit). Flip the pulley onto the other side of the spool. Pics posted awhile back in this forum.
Yesterday I was alittle scared to try some more toe-out up front because my rear end was loose. But it was loose mid-out. What I did to correct that was camber gain. I had 2mm under the inner link in the rear. I went down to 1mm and it solved that issue. I may try more toe-out up front as I know that is a powerful adjustment for entry. Wish I had more time to test.
I may try higher oil in my car now that you suggested it.. I used to run heavier oil when I ran my Yok years ago. It seemed to like it. So I may try it on this car.
Ed, I'm running D/D up front (I run LWS arms). And no axle shims. Wish I had a C block that I didn't have to mod out. Maybe I'll just wait for Tamiya to come out with one. That or just a C/B setting... OR.... E/D? up front? haha.
Bmmer, are you running the kit 105 spur? If so, you can not use that spur for brushless 17.5~10.5 motors. It's too large. I run a 102 spur and the largest pinion I can use is a 46 before the pinions start to touch the top deck. This combo gives you about a 4.55 final. I use this for 13.5. You could go with a 96 spur if you want to run 13.5 or 10.5. Or get maybe an 88 spur if you want to run 17.5. I have yet to try 17.5. But I will soon.
Travis, MRE spool with 501/416 oneway pulley (or just use the pulley in your kit). Flip the pulley onto the other side of the spool. Pics posted awhile back in this forum.
#1562
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
It seems to help a lot in giving entry and mid corner steering. I'm not entirely sure how it works, but the affect is similar to how inboard rear toe-in adds rear traction. And the affect is the same on all cars.
One thing to bear in mind though, is that when you change that setting you do two things... one is to sweep back the arms, and the other is shorten the wheelbase. So if you want to test just the sweep, you'll need to re shim the wheelbase to the right length. Hence why the kit setup (with 0.5° of sweep) has 2.5mm behind the arm, but all the parrallel armed setups (D/D) only have 2mm.
HiH
Ed
#1563
At times I like to use rear droop. But only to a point. The effect is not always desirable for me. So I like to search for other ways besides dumping all the weight to the front initially.
Hebiki, I will PM you later tonight.
Hebiki, I will PM you later tonight.
#1564
Tech Adept
wouldn't the wheelbase be the main thing giving the front more traction, cause shifting the front wheels 2mm as you say is quite allot in weight distribution...
when i got my car i can put it on my scales. i bought 4 mini scales from RCM for 40 dollar total so thats allot you can read out on the setup for just 40 dollars... balance, tweak weight distribution front to rear, basically every influence on static wheel load you can play with using 4 scales... one under every wheel...
cheerz
when i got my car i can put it on my scales. i bought 4 mini scales from RCM for 40 dollar total so thats allot you can read out on the setup for just 40 dollars... balance, tweak weight distribution front to rear, basically every influence on static wheel load you can play with using 4 scales... one under every wheel...
cheerz
#1566
I'll get ya in the morning Hebiki. I just woke up. And I need to head to work before I'm late....
#1567
Arm sweep is the angle of the hinge pins when viewed from above.
So,If your front hinge pins are perfectly inline with each other,then you have zero arm sweep
moving the front of the hinge pin out increases arms sweep,so now when your wheels are turned,the inside front tire is bieng moved toward the rear of the car,putting more wieght on it. And the outside wheel is bieng moves toward the rear of the car aswell,putting more wieght on it. So increase sweep (out) will give you more steering.
moving the back of the pin out will have the opposite effect (less steering)
Hope that help explain it better
#1569
#1571
#1572
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
wouldn't the wheelbase be the main thing giving the front more traction, cause shifting the front wheels 2mm as you say is quite allot in weight distribution...
when i got my car i can put it on my scales. i bought 4 mini scales from RCM for 40 dollar total so thats allot you can read out on the setup for just 40 dollars... balance, tweak weight distribution front to rear, basically every influence on static wheel load you can play with using 4 scales... one under every wheel...
cheerz
when i got my car i can put it on my scales. i bought 4 mini scales from RCM for 40 dollar total so thats allot you can read out on the setup for just 40 dollars... balance, tweak weight distribution front to rear, basically every influence on static wheel load you can play with using 4 scales... one under every wheel...
cheerz
HiH
Ed
#1573
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Arm sweep is the angle of the hinge pins when viewed from above.
So,If your front hinge pins are perfectly inline with each other,then you have zero arm sweep
moving the front of the hinge pin out increases arms sweep,so now when your wheels are turned,the inside front tire is bieng moved toward the rear of the car,putting more wieght on it. And the outside wheel is bieng moves toward the rear of the car aswell,putting more wieght on it. So increase sweep (out) will give you more steering.
moving the back of the pin out will have the opposite effect (less steering)
Hope that help explain it better
So,If your front hinge pins are perfectly inline with each other,then you have zero arm sweep
moving the front of the hinge pin out increases arms sweep,so now when your wheels are turned,the inside front tire is bieng moved toward the rear of the car,putting more wieght on it. And the outside wheel is bieng moves toward the rear of the car aswell,putting more wieght on it. So increase sweep (out) will give you more steering.
moving the back of the pin out will have the opposite effect (less steering)
Hope that help explain it better
#1574
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Looking down from the above the car, if the pin is parallel to the centerline of the car, you have 0° of arm sweep. If the pin (and hence the suspension arms) are angled back slightly (the front point of the pin is further from the center line than the rear), you have arm sweep.
It's set on the TRF's by changing the suspension blocks (the 1B, 1A blocks etc), which the hinge pins sit in (albeit with the small pin balls on the ends). Running a wider block on the front will give arm sweep, hence why the kit setting of B/A on the 416 gives 0.5° of arm sweep.
HiH
Ed