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Old 09-11-2007, 07:16 PM   #1
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Default EP vs. IB 4200 Help

I know a similar thread has failed in the past....However which is it? I want to run NiMh as Lipo not ready to take off in my area and need some advice? I am back into R/C and see it dying and am disapointed I am still hearing the same gripes batt wars,to many classes,pros dominateing stock and now B/L and Lipos on the move forceing technology and dynos and lathes out the door and so be it thats how technology works. But this 5cell move is really bugging me and the fact that my IB's like to blow two seperate new packs w/c's I might add, this is really upsetting and the fact that we cant have a thread for a discussion base that doesnt turn into a flame and bash session we all know about the china lipos and the IB situation but what can we do are the EP's the answer and I will in no way end my purchasing of IB products cause these were my first batch with an issuie but I have alot of guys looking to me for the answer for there batt purchases for this season and it seems if you want good packs anymore you must nut up and purchase a 1000 virgin cells and do the matchin yourself is this what you guys are seeing? Please help any advice or opinion will be respected and now extreme bashing of products lets just get the word out and make these companies aware that we are looking for the best cells and maybe they will step up....MY 2 CENTS
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Old 09-13-2007, 10:23 AM   #2
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For club racing, I personally will stick with EPs. Lately they have been flat out more durable than the IBs. With the newest NiMh batteries on the market (4200 +) they all need good care in order to last. For long term storage (1 week), put them away with a full charge. Prior to each use, discharge each cell (not pack, each cell in the pack) to .9 volts. Then peak charge as usual.

If you use an equalizer tray like the Novak, and each cell doesn't discharge for at least 30 seconds, pull the pack and put about 1000 mah charge in the pack and re-equalize. If you don't, the pack is not really equalized. If that cell (or cells) stay dead, then contact the matcher of your cells...

If your packs are going to be dormant for longer than a week, re-peak them and keep storing them. It is important that the cells don't drop below .9 volts.
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Old 09-13-2007, 10:38 AM   #3
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I bought IB's last season. when I was returning to the RC racing. I didn't like the mess with those cells. 2 of 12 cells went dead after ~10-15 cycles. I don't remember having any problems like these when we had Sanyo 2000 mAh cells, we cycled them several times a day, several years and no cell venting. This season I decided to go with EP, as I read there that they are more stable. Got them from ProMatch.
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Old 09-13-2007, 11:03 AM   #4
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i have had my EPs from the first batch that Promatch has matched and they are still going strong- (~6months). I have not lost any club race due to running the EP vs IBs. for club Eps are the way to go for now. For a big race, you will see IBs because they produce more volts.
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Old 09-17-2007, 02:39 AM   #5
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hey guys, I need a little help.. anyone can tell me exact weight of an EP4200 cell? I don't have weights around and it's pretty urgent.. Thanks in advance!
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Old 09-17-2007, 03:07 AM   #6
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I bought a IB4200WC from SMC not too long ago, and I can't get more than 5min run time from a 27T motor. My older 3700 last about 10min. I think one or two of the cells went bad. What is the best way to diagnose this?
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Old 09-17-2007, 03:21 AM   #7
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an equilizer.

if you dont have that discharge the pack and get a multimeter and check each cell individually as it discharges.
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Old 09-17-2007, 11:42 AM   #8
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Ok I tested each cell using a multimeter. I got 1.333 volts for 5/6 of them and one was at 1.14. could this be the dead one?
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Old 09-17-2007, 12:50 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbones View Post
Ok I tested each cell using a multimeter. I got 1.333 volts for 5/6 of them and one was at 1.14. could this be the dead one?
If it was dead it would read 0 but it is just not taking a charge for some reason, so yeah the cell is going bad.
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Old 09-17-2007, 04:10 PM   #10
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I have 2 IB4200 packs that have gone through nearly 20 cycles without a problem. I think as long as you equalize and charge for storage, you're fine.
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Old 09-17-2007, 07:02 PM   #11
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I have not had problems w/the economy IB4200 but the wc now thats another story......Just out of curiosity what do you guys prefer high voltage or long runtime.....just wandering if there is any coralation between the two like say are the high voltage packs more likely to fail or are they the same???
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Old 09-17-2007, 08:09 PM   #12
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I re-checked the batt today, and found that the cell that had the low voltage is now 0V. the rest of the cells are still 1.3V...
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Old 09-17-2007, 08:34 PM   #13
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I re-checked the batt today, and found that the cell that had the low voltage is now 0V. the rest of the cells are still 1.3V...
IB4200 will recover from 0V, but usually at a loss in runtime.
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Old 09-17-2007, 08:59 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbones View Post
I re-checked the batt today, and found that the cell that had the low voltage is now 0V. the rest of the cells are still 1.3V...
If the pack is not that old then email danny at [email protected] and he will take care of the dead cell for you.

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Old 09-21-2007, 11:40 PM   #15
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I needed a new pack for this weekend's race, and bought a set of IB3800. Unfortunately, one of the cells read "shrt" on the multimeter giving it 0V. Is there any way to revive/fix this? Maybe it's telling me IBs are not the batteries for me? I'll look around for EPs next time.
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