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Old 10-08-2007, 08:05 PM   #121
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billy let me and mike run the 19t main immediately after the stock main so we could finish our battle and see just how much run time you can get with BL. at about the 3 minute mark (8+ total minutes run time) my batteries started showing a little fade. i pulled the car a little after that when i broke a castor block.
Who had a orion?

Terry? If that was, no duh you won, its Terry dude he couldnt get it to work, the motor didnt fit in his car, so he went to the novak....
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Old 10-08-2007, 09:24 PM   #122
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Who had a orion?

Terry? If that was, no duh you won, its Terry dude he couldnt get it to work, the motor didnt fit in his car, so he went to the novak....
Racing at Stockton is coming up soon Gonna see what that Orion can do against the "ORIGINAL" brushless motor.
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Old 10-08-2007, 09:53 PM   #123
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Racing at Stockton is coming up soon Gonna see what that Orion can do against the "ORIGINAL" brushless motor.
For you

I still have untill I cant race at SWR.... I hate sitting in the car man...

Should be fun though
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Old 10-09-2007, 02:23 AM   #124
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Who had a orion?

Terry? If that was, no duh you won, its Terry dude he couldnt get it to work, the motor didnt fit in his car, so he went to the novak....
terry was running my novak that night. i will not name names to protect the innocent...
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Old 10-09-2007, 09:09 AM   #125
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I've noticed the comparisons over Novak/Orion never indicated the FDR they were running. From what I've read, the Orion seems to perform better with a taller gear than the Novak. If you run 4.5 FDR with the Novak, try 4.0 with the Orion.

I may be wrong, but it makes sense that the different motor designs would produce different power bands so maybe gearing is the real key to getting these motors to perform equally!

BTW: I run the Novak 13.5pro and I have just ordered the Orion Vortex 10.5...I can't wait I also run the GTB specktrum with the Fasst 2.4GHz system. I race on medium sized asphalt in TC class.
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Old 10-09-2007, 09:11 AM   #126
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I've noticed the comparisons over Novak/Orion never indicated the FDR they were running. From what I've read, the Orion seems to perform better with a taller gear than the Novak. If you run 4.5 FDR with the Novak, try 4.0 with the Orion.

I may be wrong, but it makes sense that the different motor designs would produce different power bands so maybe gearing is the real key to getting these motors to perform equally!

BTW: I run the Novak 13.5pro and I have just ordered the Orion Vortex 10.5...I can't wait I also run the GTB specktrum with the Fasst 2.4GHz system. I race on medium sized asphalt in TC class.
see me at superiors next month or if you go to pnp's sunday ill help you out with the gearing!!
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Old 10-09-2007, 09:21 AM   #127
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see me at superiors next month or if you go to pnp's sunday ill help you out with the gearing!!
Thanks Marcos! I was SO ready to race this weekend, damn rain!

I'd like to go to PNP but I really want to leave my car set-up for BL (I know lazy right?) Actually I gotta work this Sunday and, anyways, I only have 1 surviving brushed motor left.

See you next month!
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Old 10-09-2007, 04:09 PM   #128
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terry was running my novak that night. i will not name names to protect the innocent...
Scotty?

I know it wasnt me.... And no one else runs the orion besides me and Scotty......
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Old 10-10-2007, 01:45 AM   #129
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does anyone have anymore comparisons with the LRP 13.5 with sintered rotor compared to the Novak 13.5 with the new 13mm rotor?

anyone else run the orion, how is it?

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Old 10-12-2007, 11:52 AM   #130
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I've been giving some more thought to my problem with the LRP sintered rotors, and have a theory. This is just a theory and not a fact, so please keep that in mind. Any feedback would be appreciated. For review, I was having trouble using the sintered rotor in the LRP 13.5 because the magnet would spin on the motor shaft, basically destroying the rotor.

It is my understanding that the higher turn brushless motors generate more torque than the lower turn motors, which is part of the reason they need so much gear. Also, I believe using larger rotors (smaller air gap) will even further increase a motor's torque.

When I first switched to rubber tires on my Type-R, including the use of a one-way, I immediately started destroying spur gears during minor crashes using the PRS spur adapter. After giving it some thought, I came to the conclusion that since the front of the car was basically fixed (with the one-way as opposed to a diff) giving the car any power while the drive train was bound up was being transferred directly into the spur gear. The PRS gears are thin, and the adapter causes them to sit farther out. It seems the problem is that the torque of the 13.5 was enough to cause the gear to flex and then strip if power was applied while the drive train was bound. This can happen easily if you're on power and have a front end collision using a one-way or spool, or if you try to "bounce" yourself off a board by applying power while a car is stuck.

It occurred to me today that the same thing may be what was killing my LRP rotors. The best I can tell, a rotor is at least two parts, basically consisting of a magnet somehow attached to a shaft, probably using glue or epoxy, or maybe even a force fit. Presumably, if you take a motor and bind up its shaft, and then apply power, it will stress this bond, perhaps to the point of failure depending on the torque of the motor, and the strength of said bond.

With that in mind, I believe that may have been the root cause of the LRP rotor failure. If I understand motors correctly, this would be less likely in a faster motor since they're more RPM biased, and don't have the twisting power of a torquey 13.5.

I'm not sure what the answer is, other than to be careful if you're using a fixed front axle, and possibly to hope LRP improves their rotors. The problem was not observed with Novak, who seem to have better mastered rotor design. The LRP was problematic in other ways, such as the shaft material being too soft, and becoming chewed up by pinion screws quite easily.

Now that I'm back on foams, I suppose I'll get another LRP rotor and see if it's able to hold up. With a diff up front, the chances of a completely bound drive train are much lower.
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Old 10-12-2007, 06:02 PM   #131
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Ok guys (or even gals) I've been running a Novak 13.5 sintered rotor in a Xray T2'007 with a FDR of 4.675 (rubber / pavement) Today I got my Orion 13.5. Anyone running it yet? Any ideas on the FDR for it?
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Old 10-13-2007, 10:25 PM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
I've been giving some more thought to my problem with the LRP sintered rotors, and have a theory. This is just a theory and not a fact, so please keep that in mind. Any feedback would be appreciated. For review, I was having trouble using the sintered rotor in the LRP 13.5 because the magnet would spin on the motor shaft, basically destroying the rotor.

It is my understanding that the higher turn brushless motors generate more torque than the lower turn motors, which is part of the reason they need so much gear. Also, I believe using larger rotors (smaller air gap) will even further increase a motor's torque.

When I first switched to rubber tires on my Type-R, including the use of a one-way, I immediately started destroying spur gears during minor crashes using the PRS spur adapter. After giving it some thought, I came to the conclusion that since the front of the car was basically fixed (with the one-way as opposed to a diff) giving the car any power while the drive train was bound up was being transferred directly into the spur gear. The PRS gears are thin, and the adapter causes them to sit farther out. It seems the problem is that the torque of the 13.5 was enough to cause the gear to flex and then strip if power was applied while the drive train was bound. This can happen easily if you're on power and have a front end collision using a one-way or spool, or if you try to "bounce" yourself off a board by applying power while a car is stuck.

It occurred to me today that the same thing may be what was killing my LRP rotors. The best I can tell, a rotor is at least two parts, basically consisting of a magnet somehow attached to a shaft, probably using glue or epoxy, or maybe even a force fit. Presumably, if you take a motor and bind up its shaft, and then apply power, it will stress this bond, perhaps to the point of failure depending on the torque of the motor, and the strength of said bond.

With that in mind, I believe that may have been the root cause of the LRP rotor failure. If I understand motors correctly, this would be less likely in a faster motor since they're more RPM biased, and don't have the twisting power of a torquey 13.5.

I'm not sure what the answer is, other than to be careful if you're using a fixed front axle, and possibly to hope LRP improves their rotors. The problem was not observed with Novak, who seem to have better mastered rotor design. The LRP was problematic in other ways, such as the shaft material being too soft, and becoming chewed up by pinion screws quite easily.

Now that I'm back on foams, I suppose I'll get another LRP rotor and see if it's able to hold up. With a diff up front, the chances of a completely bound drive train are much lower.

Also, the LRP rotors are soft from what I have seen, the pinion really makes a indent, and my novak 13.5 and orion 10.5 have no indent, just a little mark, and I crank those screws down
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Old 10-14-2007, 12:02 AM   #133
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ok guys is this topic for gearing 13.5 using 5 cells?

Cause if it is I also need help. My Novak 13.5 seems so slow on a straight line. My FDR at first is 5.1 and tried to gear it higher at 4.7 and it got really slugish it's not pulling at all the motor feels really flat. So I switch back to 5.1 FDR and it was ok I just don't have the top end speed. So six cells guys that is running brushed stock can easily pass me on straight easy, But this is only when I race on a big track.

On a small track brushless rules. I even tried running my 13.5 against 19t brushed guys and I raced with them toe to toe.

On my Novak 10.5 I found out this motor likes to be geared at around 5.1 -5.2FDR using 5 cells you go higher and feels really flat. I don't have problem with guys running six cells or LIPO with thgis kind of gearing on a 10.5 motor. Just on my novak 13.5 with the same gearing this motor sucks but like I said "only on a big track."
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Old 10-14-2007, 12:44 AM   #134
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IMO

stock and 5 cell doesnt work the best

As you said, the motor runs flat, and its easy to drive, but its slow

were your lap times faster with 5 cell? if you can get your lap times faster with 5, then who cares if you get motored, the one with the fast lap times, and most laps is who wins..

Let us know if you do find a god FDR though, id like to know
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Old 10-14-2007, 11:24 AM   #135
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Hi has anybody tried the new Novak GTB "Spread Spektrum" Speedo? Or can anyone rec. anything better?
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