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Old 12-24-2007, 12:21 AM   #631
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G is`nt that the same thing as hand winding a 27T brush or ?

If you have to go that far , step up and race with a faster motor instead...
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Old 12-24-2007, 12:46 AM   #632
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G is`nt that the same thing as hand winding a 27T brush or ?

If you have to go that far , step up and race with a faster motor instead...
Since they're hand-wound already, what's the harm in rewinding it yourself to make sure your motor has the most efficient winding possible? Stock motors were machine-wound. These are an entirely different story.

My intention isn't to go faster so that I can gain an edge, or beat out someone with a lesser motor. We're talking about going to 17.5's because 13.5 is too much for many people on our small track. My intention is to learn how to get the very most from the motor, and maybe even experiment with changing things, like wire gague. Also, there would be some definite satisfaction running one I essentially built myself. Doesn't every Jedi have to build his own light saber?
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Old 12-24-2007, 12:52 AM   #633
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Since they're hand-wound already, what's the harm in rewinding it yourself to make sure your motor has the most efficient winding possible? Stock motors were machine-wound. These are an entirely different story.

My intention isn't to go faster so that I can gain an edge, or beat out someone with a lesser motor. We're talking about going to 17.5's because 13.5 is too much for many people on our small track. My intention is to learn how to get the very most from the motor, and maybe even experiment with changing things, like wire gague. Also, there would be some definite satisfaction running one I essentially built myself. Doesn't every Jedi have to build his own light saber?

O-sure !

Maybe you should learn to wrap a decent 17.5 instead , cus i think that is gona be the new stock motor for year`s to come...
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Old 12-24-2007, 04:38 AM   #634
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A tedious process yes but should not be difficult. I used to wind my own modified and they were ballistic, but with out a good balancer they would only last a few weeks before throwing a wind.
At least with brushless balancing won't be an issue.

As for instruction I'd look elsewhere, brushless is so new to RC. But these are basically AC motors and there should be a wealth of info and theory at the Library on AC / Brushless motors, Look at powerplant production or similar since they are likely the most concerned with efficency.
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Old 12-24-2007, 02:11 PM   #635
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Can someone please give me the proper wiring for the Sphere tc comp. to the Novak 13.5 ?. What wire goes where.

Last edited by gurumods; 12-25-2007 at 09:33 AM.
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Old 12-25-2007, 03:21 PM   #636
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Can someone please give me the proper wiring for the Sphere tc comp. to the Novak 13.5 ?. What wire goes where.
It is the same as the Vector. Looking at the black plastic solder tab end (side opposite output shaft)--left to right--blue--yellow--orange.
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Old 12-25-2007, 03:35 PM   #637
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Thanks Verndog
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Old 12-25-2007, 03:39 PM   #638
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Thanks Verndog
Your welcome...merry xmas to all!!

I just hooked up a Novak 13.5 so I confimed its the same as Vector 13.5.
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Old 12-27-2007, 09:17 AM   #639
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I had a chance to run the 416 last night with the Novak 13.5. Nice car, I'm very happy thus far.

I'm running the 13mm rotor in my motor because I prefer how it feels off-power. The natural drag brake feels better to me in rubber tire, much like it did with the LRP 13.5. Last night, we had very little traction due to nobody showing up (snow, holidays) and some paint dust seemed to have settled on the carpet after spraying the ceiling white to improve lighting. They covered the track for 24 hours, but it seems like particles suspended in the air still found their way to the rug.

Anyway... the motor, well actually its torque seemed entirely too strong for the track. It was very difficult to get on the throttle without the tires wanting to spin. It was a good lesson in throttle control. I also learned that if the car isn't pointed straight, you probably shouldn't jump on the throttle. These things never mattered as much with foams. :-) Anyway, the 17.5's actually looked way more behaved and drivable than the 13.5's. I'm thinking last night may have been a good fit for the Orion 13.5. Which leads me to...

I think the wire gauge in the Orion 13.5 is the same as the Novak. I didn't mic it to see for sure, but it looks that way. The stator, however, seems a lot shorter. Perhaps that's why it weighs less, and seems to produce less power. Also, the ID of the stator seems to be larger. Anyway, I'm not sure how this motor is going to hope to compete against the Novak if traction is available. Maybe on wide open tracks it works out, but on tight carpet tracks, I'd be surprised if it's even close. The race next week should tell us a lot. If the Trinity 13.5 is of a similar design to the Orion, which I'm guessing it is since they're both Feigao, I wouldn't be surprised to see those drivers struggle. I don't know how it will play out in 10.5, but if there's a lot of pros with motor sponsors in that class, and they're not running the Novak 10.5, it could be interesting.
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Old 12-27-2007, 06:07 PM   #640
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
I had a chance to run the 416 last night with the Novak 13.5. Nice car, I'm very happy thus far.

I'm running the 13mm rotor in my motor because I prefer how it feels off-power. The natural drag brake feels better to me in rubber tire, much like it did with the LRP 13.5. Last night, we had very little traction due to nobody showing up (snow, holidays) and some paint dust seemed to have settled on the carpet after spraying the ceiling white to improve lighting. They covered the track for 24 hours, but it seems like particles suspended in the air still found their way to the rug.

Anyway... the motor, well actually its torque seemed entirely too strong for the track. It was very difficult to get on the throttle without the tires wanting to spin. It was a good lesson in throttle control. I also learned that if the car isn't pointed straight, you probably shouldn't jump on the throttle. These things never mattered as much with foams. :-) Anyway, the 17.5's actually looked way more behaved and drivable than the 13.5's. I'm thinking last night may have been a good fit for the Orion 13.5. Which leads me to...

I think the wire gauge in the Orion 13.5 is the same as the Novak. I didn't mic it to see for sure, but it looks that way. The stator, however, seems a lot shorter. Perhaps that's why it weighs less, and seems to produce less power. Also, the ID of the stator seems to be larger. Anyway, I'm not sure how this motor is going to hope to compete against the Novak if traction is available. Maybe on wide open tracks it works out, but on tight carpet tracks, I'd be surprised if it's even close. The race next week should tell us a lot. If the Trinity 13.5 is of a similar design to the Orion, which I'm guessing it is since they're both Feigao, I wouldn't be surprised to see those drivers struggle. I don't know how it will play out in 10.5, but if there's a lot of pros with motor sponsors in that class, and they're not running the Novak 10.5, it could be interesting.
Have you tried lowering the punch level in the speedo? I run setting level 2 in my LRP Sphere with some expo on the throttle channel.
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Old 12-27-2007, 08:06 PM   #641
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Have you tried lowering the punch level in the speedo? I run setting level 2 in my LRP Sphere with some expo on the throttle channel.
I haven't, but I may need to if the traction levels remain low. I used to do this with the 10.5's so they wouldn't destroy the fragile RDX diffs, and it helped quite a bit.
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Old 12-31-2007, 02:03 PM   #642
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I have a LRP 13.5 andpicked up a sintered rotor. Can anyone help me as to how to get one of these apart? I pulled the 3 screws off, took the plastic cap off and can't seem to get the thing apart. I didn't want to pull up on the circuit board for fear of ruining it. I don't want to try too hard and ruin it.
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Old 12-31-2007, 02:41 PM   #643
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I have a LRP 13.5 andpicked up a sintered rotor. Can anyone help me as to how to get one of these apart? I pulled the 3 screws off, took the plastic cap off and can't seem to get the thing apart. I didn't want to pull up on the circuit board for fear of ruining it. I don't want to try too hard and ruin it.
I answered your question in this thread.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpost...&postcount=168
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Old 12-31-2007, 03:23 PM   #644
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Default LRP 13.5 sintered vs Novak Pro 13.5 13mm

LRP 13.5 sintered vs Novak Pro 13.5 13mm

I now have had time to run both. Yesterday I ran 3 packs each motor back to back. Lap times were very close to identical...but these are still 2 different feel motors.

The Novak 13mm does have more drag brake feel then the stock 12.5mm the pro comes with...BUT...not as much as the LRP. Also the LRP still has the nod on the torque coming out of corners, while the Novak had a small amount more on top.

I recently found my temp gage to be off a good 10 degs.+ so I have a better one coming, but Novak at 4.72 and LRP at 4.87 seemed to be a real good spot for both coming off at a true 145 or so after 8 mins.

One thing I noticed, it takes some time to be able to swap back and forth and learn to drive them. After running the Novak a few weeks, then switching to the LRP I found myself scrubbing speed coming into corners. With the LRP some corners I hit neutral in the Novak, required just off neutral with the LRP or a longer delay to maintain speed.

3 of my best 4 lap times (- 2 tenths @14.5) were with the Novak, and I believe alot of that is due to I've developed a feel with this layout to that motor. I can see that with different layouts that a motor swap could provide an advantage...but I cant personally pick between them yet...except for looks the LRP has the nod...
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Old 12-31-2007, 04:44 PM   #645
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I find the LRP has a smoother feel overall, but agree they require different driving styles, and some time to adjust. I'm wondering why Novak is so scared of the LRP, since they seem to have made the rules of the Novak race specifically to exclude it.
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