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Old 12-23-2007, 05:25 PM   #616
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I have a question here

When I run my motor normally it all good, but if I try to run it in reverse (swapping 2 wires) it wont run, it makes a weird noise, and turns slow

This is with a LRP TC sphere..

Whats wrong?
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Old 12-23-2007, 06:06 PM   #617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO View Post
I have a question here

When I run my motor normally it all good, but if I try to run it in reverse (swapping 2 wires) it wont run, it makes a weird noise, and turns slow

This is with a LRP TC sphere..

Whats wrong?
With a sensorless motor and esc, swapping 2 wires would be no problem, but because it is sensored, all the readings must be quite off. Bad idea IMO.
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Old 12-23-2007, 07:04 PM   #618
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With a sensorless motor and esc, swapping 2 wires would be no problem, but because it is sensored, all the readings must be quite off. Bad idea IMO.
lol I figured that out...

Shoot, so theres no way I can make my motor run counter clock wise?
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Old 12-23-2007, 07:24 PM   #619
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Just a thought but perhaps if you switch the corresponding sensor lead as well as the power lead you may be able to fool the system.
according to Roar rules the pin out is..
pin 2 is phase C
pin 3 is phase B
pin 4 is phase A
where pin 1 is on the left side of the connector with the plastic tang on the connector holding each pin facing forward
as noted in rulebook pg 40
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Old 12-23-2007, 07:27 PM   #620
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i have a trinity 13.5 that i ran one time that i will sell if someone wants to test one out
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Old 12-23-2007, 07:31 PM   #621
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i have a trinity 13.5 that i ran one time that i will sell if someone wants to test one out
So it didn't spank the Novak then? :-D

Out of curiosity, what's the diameter of the rotor in that Trinity 13.5?
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Old 12-23-2007, 07:37 PM   #622
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who says im running novak
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Old 12-23-2007, 07:40 PM   #623
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Originally Posted by miller tyme View Post
Just a thought but perhaps if you switch the corresponding sensor lead as well as the power lead you may be able to fool the system.
according to Roar rules the pin out is..
pin 2 is phase C
pin 3 is phase B
pin 4 is phase A
where pin 1 is on the left side of the connector with the plastic tang on the connector holding each pin facing forward
as noted in rulebook pg 40
Hmmm, that is true

I will have to try that out, I will let you know Good idea man!
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Old 12-23-2007, 07:47 PM   #624
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I think the latest Trinity and the new Speed Passion/Feigao are the same. Was the Trinity 13.5 the lastest Blue unit? If not you had an old motor. The new ones are better. The rotor should be 12.3mm with no fan on the latest motors.
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Old 12-23-2007, 07:52 PM   #625
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miller tyme View Post
Just a thought but perhaps if you switch the corresponding sensor lead as well as the power lead you may be able to fool the system.
according to Roar rules the pin out is..
pin 2 is phase C
pin 3 is phase B
pin 4 is phase A
where pin 1 is on the left side of the connector with the plastic tang on the connector holding each pin facing forward
as noted in rulebook pg 40
OMG!! Your a genius!!! It worked!

Thanks SOOOOOO much man!
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Old 12-23-2007, 07:53 PM   #626
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yes that is what i have i got it in cleveland
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Old 12-23-2007, 08:00 PM   #627
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lol I figured that out...

Shoot, so theres no way I can make my motor run counter clock wise?
No amount of wire switching will change the rotation of your sensored motor. Our XBR speed control has a built-in motor rotation selector which allows the user to select the direction of the motor rotation.

I know that we recently reprogrammed a GTB (using the XBR program) for a customer in the UK running a Clodbuster. But, I should add, it's not something we generally offer.
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Old 12-23-2007, 08:01 PM   #628
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OMG!! Your a genius!!! It worked!

Thanks SOOOOOO much man!
Well, I guess it did work.
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Old 12-23-2007, 09:04 PM   #629
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Originally Posted by NovakTwo View Post
No amount of wire switching will change the rotation of your sensored motor. Our XBR speed control has a built-in motor rotation selector which allows the user to select the direction of the motor rotation.

I know that we recently reprogrammed a GTB (using the XBR program) for a customer in the UK running a Clodbuster. But, I should add, it's not something we generally offer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NovakTwo View Post
Well, I guess it did work.
Im not using a novak esc, or motor.... I use the novak 13.5, but I did the wire swap on my orion 10.5 motor, and the LRP TC esc....... No biggie, It literally took a min to do, just something to bend the plastic tab, pull out both wires and swap them... Done
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Old 12-23-2007, 10:53 PM   #630
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The Orion motor is quite a bit lighter than the Novak. I'll have to eyeball it and see if the wire gauge is smaller. That's my first thought, due to the decreased weight. There seems to be a very strong correlation between the amount of coper in a stator (for a given number of winds) and how much power it produces. If the wire gauge is indeed smaller, I wonder why anybody would go that route in a "spec" motor. I get it for faster motors, like the Novak Light series, to change driving characteristics, but in spec, the idea seems to be as much power as possible within certain limitations.

I'm interested in learning to wind my own stators. I've been researching it, and it seems there's a bit of trickery involved, especially with how Novak does theirs, but it's not rocket science. I found some posts from the past where Bob Novak was intentionally vague about the technique, so I don't imagine I'll get any help by asking Novak directly. If I'm wrong, that would great. If you Novak guys want to point me in the right direction on where to get started, I'd appreciate it.

It seems there's something to be said for winding your own 13.5 stator to minimize its inductance. I realize this isn't what brushless faithful want to hear, so I guess you can consider me one of the bad guys in that regard. I like to tinker, and I'd love to try and build my own stator to get the very best performance out of a given number of winds, and possibly experiment with ways to improve power. Not because I think it'll make me a more successful racer, but because I find the technology itself interesting, and wish to learn more about it.*

*With apologies to EddieO and other motor tuners from the past. I was critical of them, perhaps unfairly so. It seems they too just wanted to tinker and learn, and eventually turned it into a business. Business isn't my motivation, but the quest for knowledge certainly is.
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