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Old 11-12-2007, 03:55 PM   #331
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Hi marcos, How low can you gear a 10.5 and do you do the same thing with timing on a 10.5 orion?
i ran my orion 10.5 with 1mm advanced timing at a 4.78 FDR and it came off the track at 174 degrees after a 8 minute main it had mad rip out of the corner and plenty of speed at the end of the straight (160 feet) i may go up another tooth on the pinion at the next race we'll see, the 13.5 was in the high 3'sFDR
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Old 11-12-2007, 04:23 PM   #332
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i ran my orion 10.5 with 1mm advanced timing at a 4.78 FDR and it came off the track at 174 degrees after a 8 minute main it had mad rip out of the corner and plenty of speed at the end of the straight (160 feet) i may go up another tooth on the pinion at the next race we'll see, the 13.5 was in the high 3'sFDR
Jeeze, I run mine at 4.98 and it come off the track at 140 every race with in 5-7 deg.....
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Old 11-12-2007, 04:47 PM   #333
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I'm at 4.99 FDR and after 6 minutes its at 125/130 degrees. I have the timing advanced 1mm. I can stand to go up a few more teeth and will do so when my new smaller spur gear comes in.
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Old 11-12-2007, 10:39 PM   #334
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Default No drag brake ESC settings for 13.5SS?

Hi guys,

I was told the ESC setting for using a Novak SS13.5, I have to disable the drag brake so that it will minimise any cogging, is that true?

Appreciate the advice. Thanks!
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Old 11-12-2007, 10:51 PM   #335
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Hi guys,

I was told the ESC setting for using a Novak SS13.5, I have to disable the drag brake so that it will minimise any cogging, is that true?

Appreciate the advice. Thanks!
If you have been racing 27T stock you should not disable the drag brake entirely. The motor, even with a sintered magnet, will spin free like a mod and you will have to learn to use brakes like a mod driver.

On my LRP Sphere's I run setting 2 on drag brake and to me that feels like the cogging of a 27T stock brushed motor.
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Old 11-12-2007, 11:26 PM   #336
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I have been playing with a few of the 13.5t variants using this can from Feigao, with some very good results.

It will be interesting to see what rotor they decided upon. 4 to choose from 12.0mm to 13.5mm

Also while you can change the timing it is not really adjustable, from what i can tell it is -20 degrees, 0 degrees and +20 degrees, so really only 1 setting can be used with LRP/Novak speedies.
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Old 11-12-2007, 11:32 PM   #337
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Thats how it has always been...lol!
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Old 11-13-2007, 12:04 AM   #338
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I didn't realize Feigao offered their rotors in different widths. I wonder if they'll work between all their cans? I'd like to try Orion's 13.5 with a fatter rotor to see if reduced air gap gives it some more guts and maybe a better feel.

I haven't even seen the rotors for sale as replacements anywhere yet.
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Old 11-13-2007, 05:25 AM   #339
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I have a Novak 13.5 brushless system. I started using the Orion 3200 Lipo battery. I activated the lipo cut off on the esc. But I only use 2000 mah and it shuts down. Is there away I can adjust that?
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Old 11-13-2007, 05:47 AM   #340
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
I didn't realize Feigao offered their rotors in different widths. I wonder if they'll work between all their cans? I'd like to try Orion's 13.5 with a fatter rotor to see if reduced air gap gives it some more guts and maybe a better feel.

I haven't even seen the rotors for sale as replacements anywhere yet.
Speed passion and GM already sell the various rotors for that model can.

The ones pictured above are more of a budget model and dont have the impellor.

Fro the above motor i found the smallest rotor the best, the bigger ones just felt flat.

Have you measured the one in your Orion 13.5?
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Old 11-13-2007, 06:05 AM   #341
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I have a Novak 13.5 brushless system. I started using the Orion 3200 Lipo battery. I activated the lipo cut off on the esc. But I only use 2000 mah and it shuts down. Is there away I can adjust that?
Its shuting down because the voltage dips slightly below what ever cutoff is set at. Screw the gimmick lipo cut off. If you are racing and you have all veriables where they need to be (FDR, roll out) then run your race, come off the track and put on the charger. Use your head and you wont need a lipo cut off. I have ran the shit out of 3200's in mod, stock, brushed and brushless with no lipo cut off, and my packs were as they were when new. When you go out for practice, just set the timer or alarm on you cell phone (every one has a cell phone) for how ever long you race. Simply stop mand throw that battery on the charger. Lipo cut off is only a sales gimmick, or for people with no common sense. You will not hurt the battery, especially if you are only putting 2000 mah back in to it. That 3200 is useable mah as compared to NiMh, that is total mah
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Old 11-13-2007, 07:37 AM   #342
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Thanks Ray...has anyone actually used the EX series?

Thanks
I ran one a couple of weeks ago. It seemed to be good and worth the money. We mostly race club races. It worked good the first qualifier motor came in at like 85 degrees and finished 2nd. Then in the second qualifier the thing started on fire. I'm still waiting to hear novak's response as far as warranty.
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Old 11-13-2007, 10:03 AM   #343
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Originally Posted by convikt View Post
Its shuting down because the voltage dips slightly below what ever cutoff is set at. Screw the gimmick lipo cut off. If you are racing and you have all veriables where they need to be (FDR, roll out) then run your race, come off the track and put on the charger. Use your head and you wont need a lipo cut off. I have ran the shit out of 3200's in mod, stock, brushed and brushless with no lipo cut off, and my packs were as they were when new. When you go out for practice, just set the timer or alarm on you cell phone (every one has a cell phone) for how ever long you race. Simply stop mand throw that battery on the charger. Lipo cut off is only a sales gimmick, or for people with no common sense. You will not hurt the battery, especially if you are only putting 2000 mah back in to it. That 3200 is useable mah as compared to NiMh, that is total mah
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Old 11-13-2007, 01:54 PM   #344
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I consistently run 25+ minutes of practice on one pack...my maxamps 4000mah lipo. I have a sphere comp with the cutoff turned on and Have never touched had a BEC shutdown...and I have put 3400 back into the pack on several occasions.....battery is fine!
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Old 11-13-2007, 09:23 PM   #345
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I ran one a couple of weeks ago. It seemed to be good and worth the money. We mostly race club races. It worked good the first qualifier motor came in at like 85 degrees and finished 2nd. Then in the second qualifier the thing started on fire. I'm still waiting to hear novak's response as far as warranty.
First of all thank you for the response. Did it get really hot and thermal out or did it actually catch on fire?? I know this a dumb question, but I have seen smoke at the race track. How was the motor keeping up to others (brushed and brushless) as far as its powerband? Please keep us posted on Novak's response.

Thank you
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