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Old 11-04-2007, 12:08 PM   #256
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So whats up with the LRP rotor's breaking?

I am looking at one for 12th scale (I will probably do novak, but..) But I hear lots of rotors breaking

Does that happen alot? Whats the cause of it? And has anyone tried one in there 12th?
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Old 11-04-2007, 03:25 PM   #257
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Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO View Post
So whats up with the LRP rotor's breaking?

I am looking at one for 12th scale (I will probably do novak, but..) But I hear lots of rotors breaking

Does that happen alot? Whats the cause of it? And has anyone tried one in there 12th?
The bonded rotor were brekaing in 6 cell TC application but thats all over with now that sintered rotors are the norm.

They used to break becuase they would get very hot and fragment when turning over 60,000 rpm which was pretty normal with a 6 cell sedan outdoors on a big track.

In 1/12th we still run the bonded rotors in LRP mods but on 4 cells there is no breakage problem but to lower heat and much lower rpm's.

FYI, I have tried the sintered magnets in 1/12th and they are good but the car seems to have more top end with the bonded rotor. The sintered rotors are better because they have more bottom end to move a much heavier sedan.
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Old 11-04-2007, 03:53 PM   #258
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The bonded rotor were brekaing in 6 cell TC application but thats all over with now that sintered rotors are the norm.

They used to break becuase they would get very hot and fragment when turning over 60,000 rpm which was pretty normal with a 6 cell sedan outdoors on a big track.

In 1/12th we still run the bonded rotors in LRP mods but on 4 cells there is no breakage problem but to lower heat and much lower rpm's.

FYI, I have tried the sintered magnets in 1/12th and they are good but the car seems to have more top end with the bonded rotor. The sintered rotors are better because they have more bottom end to move a much heavier sedan.


Really? How would it have more top end? Couldnt you gear the sintered up more? Or does the bonded just have more top in all ways?

Which drives better?
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Old 11-04-2007, 05:36 PM   #259
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Really? How would it have more top end? Couldnt you gear the sintered up more? Or does the bonded just have more top in all ways?

Which drives better?
I think the weaker magent is just easier to spin up so in a light car like a 1/12th so its faster.

With a LRP X11 5.5 and a bonded rotor I needed setting 4 on the drag brakes.

With the Sintered rotor from a 4.5 in the same motor I needed to reduce the drag brake to 2.

With the bonded I was geared 22/88 with the sintered I was geared 24/88. I really need to put a 100T spur for mod 1/12th but I am lazy

The bonded rotor just seem to be faster on the straight. When I geared up the sintered rotor it didnt imporve the lap times.
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Old 11-04-2007, 05:44 PM   #260
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I think the weaker magent is just easier to spin up so in a light car like a 1/12th so its faster.

With a LRP X11 5.5 and a bonded rotor I needed setting 4 on the drag brakes.

With the Sintered rotor from a 4.5 in the same motor I needed to reduce the drag brake to 2.

With the bonded I was geared 22/88 with the sintered I was geared 24/88. I really need to put a 100T spur for mod 1/12th but I am lazy

The bonded rotor just seem to be faster on the straight. When I geared up the sintered rotor it didnt imporve the lap times.
Faster lap times too

Hmm, would you think the same for there 13.5? The vector one
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Old 11-04-2007, 05:51 PM   #261
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Default Novak 13.5 and TC spec

hey everyone,
This past weekend I ran a brand new TC spec with a new Novak 13.5 pro.

after a few packs of good running .....the car just went a bit haywire.
If I pull on the throttle - nothing happens...light goes red/yellow...
when i twist the pinion while pulling the throttle it starts for a bit then right back to stoppage.
Tried to reset everything, DSM, reset the speedo, etc...and a big nothing.

are they compatible? is this a common occurence?
I set the battery mode to Ni-MH, no improvement..

This sucks....two or three with new equipment and now I have paperweights.

ohh..by the way LRP is not my choice product..just ended up getting it via a trade to help someone else out.

I've never experience this with any GTB i've had.
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Old 11-04-2007, 06:19 PM   #262
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Originally Posted by olhipster1 View Post
hey everyone,
This past weekend I ran a brand new TC spec with a new Novak 13.5 pro.

after a few packs of good running .....the car just went a bit haywire.
If I pull on the throttle - nothing happens...light goes red/yellow...
when i twist the pinion while pulling the throttle it starts for a bit then right back to stoppage.
Tried to reset everything, DSM, reset the speedo, etc...and a big nothing.

are they compatible? is this a common occurence?
I set the battery mode to Ni-MH, no improvement..

This sucks....two or three with new equipment and now I have paperweights.

ohh..by the way LRP is not my choice product..just ended up getting it via a trade to help someone else out.

I've never experience this with any GTB i've had.
They are totally compatible. Sounds like a sensor wire problem. Make sure it is plugged in correctly and is fully seated....also make sure you have the wired soldred on to the motor tabs correctly, wire a-b-c to tab a-b-c on the motor.
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Old 11-04-2007, 07:03 PM   #263
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Thanks for the reply Adrian,
but I checked all of the above...
took everything out and re-connected everything.
but still nothing

this really sucks...
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Old 11-04-2007, 07:27 PM   #264
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those figure dont mean sht.

but noobies use those figures to buy their gear.

its like a car dyno, go to one dyno says 150atw then go across the street another dyno says 200 atw, which dyno sheet do you brag about?
The numbers mean something, but you are most likely correct in that theres no way to know that one manufacturers numbers can be compared to anothers.
When it comes to dyno's its true that one dyno might not be calibrated exactly like another. However at least with horsepower there is a common definition for what one horse power is equivalent to. The differrence then would be the accuracy of the dyno.

It would be great to see all of the 13.5 motors hooked up to the same dynos that nitro engine horsepower ratings are derived from. I would love to see numbers from all the differrent motors and with differrent ESC combinations. Torque curves and the whole bit.
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Old 11-04-2007, 07:47 PM   #265
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I was thinking of getting a novak 13.5 since that's what most people at my carpet racing track are using, BUT, they have all got the GTB speedos and LRP's. I've got a mamba speedo and i'm selling my 6900 motor for a 13.5 because it fits the track well...
Anyways, my real newbie question is, will the Novak 13.5 work with the mamba speed control? The novak motor is sensored, but the mamba doesn't do sensored motors. So if that is the case that i can't use it, then would the LRP 13.5 or the Orion 13.5 be best?
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Old 11-04-2007, 08:39 PM   #266
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The Mamba Maxx will run a 13.5 for bashing use but its not good enough for the track. The starts are rough and part throttle is choppy.

The best combo seems to be a LRP Sphere Comp 07 or TC spec and any 13.5 motor.

I have both and they run all my LRP, Novak, and Orion motors perfectly.
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Old 11-04-2007, 08:43 PM   #267
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I was thinking of getting a novak 13.5 since that's what most people at my carpet racing track are using, BUT, they have all got the GTB speedos and LRP's. I've got a mamba speedo and i'm selling my 6900 motor for a 13.5 because it fits the track well...
Anyways, my real newbie question is, will the Novak 13.5 work with the mamba speed control? The novak motor is sensored, but the mamba doesn't do sensored motors. So if that is the case that i can't use it, then would the LRP 13.5 or the Orion 13.5 be best?
the Orion 13.5 with 1mm advanced timing is a ROCKET!!!
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Old 11-04-2007, 09:03 PM   #268
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the Orion 13.5 with 1mm advanced timing is a ROCKET!!!
Forgive me for being a newb, but that's clockwise, right? More RPM, less torque?
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Old 11-04-2007, 09:06 PM   #269
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Forgive me for being a newb, but that's clockwise, right? More RPM, less torque?
yes clockwise
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Old 11-04-2007, 09:41 PM   #270
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Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
The Mamba Maxx will run a 13.5 for bashing use but its not good enough for the track. The starts are rough and part throttle is choppy.

The best combo seems to be a LRP Sphere Comp 07 or TC spec and any 13.5 motor.

I have both and they run all my LRP, Novak, and Orion motors perfectly.
I just raced on Friday night with the Orion 13.5 in my Mamba Max and other than a slight hesitation on the initial hit of the throttle one time (in my start up of my warmup lap) it worked flawlessly all night long. Geared 42/116 in my MI3.

You can watch my car from the race Friday night. THe first touring car race they show is the B main. 2nd part of the vid is me TQ with the bright DNA body. I'm running 13.5 Orion with my Mamba Max with 4200's vs all other cars in the main have 13.5 with lipos. You will see my car has zero problems running the Orion 13.5 motor.

http://www.altoonaraceway.com/RaceCoverage110207.html Click on touring car mains to see the vid.
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