robk

iTrader: (22)

If you can find someone that knows the F103, or even a good 1/12 guy, they should be able to look at your car and help you.

InspGadgt

It is possible your rear axle is too tight. Because the diff is not between the bearings if the axle is too tight in the pod it will cause drag on that side of the diff. There needs to be a little play in the rear axle to make sure the car will track straight. When you put on the left side hub slip a piece of paper between the axle spacer and the bearing and tighten down the hub. Then when you remove the paper you will have just a slight bit of play in the rear axle to keep it from binding the bearings.

Also check your thrust bearing assembly to make sure it is working properly. The car does strange things sometimes when the spring washers weaken.

GasGod

iTrader: (4)

I have to agree- prob something in the axle/diff area,or pod isn't square with chassis.

jakeg1999

iTrader: (47)

Ok, I will definately try that. I actually tried to make sure there was no play in the axle by holding a bit of pressure on both sides while tightening. While it feels free to me, it may be a bit too snug....I will give it a shot....

InspGadgt

Yeah that will actually cause problems. I used to do the same thing and kept wondering why I could never get my car to track straight.

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

i was shown a very quick and easy way of checking for tweek on pan cars and F1's

i use the Quarter trick

place 2 quarter coins on the front wheels just off the top top point of the tyres , hen find the middle point of the cars nose and lift slowly with a 1.5mm Allen key till the coins fall ,

if they both fall at the same time the car isnt tweeked , if one falls before the other you have tweek

this is quick to check maybe the 1st thing to check

TheOtherBill

I used to use this method to check for tweak in 12th scale( Iam cheap I used nickels). On a 12th scale there were two set screws on the T-bar that could be adjusted to get things set properly . If there was some tweak in a F-103 how could it be adjusted? Thanks

j.d.roost

iTrader: (32)

I had some luck un-tweaking my 103 by doing the old top plate hold and turn.

Pop the wheels off,loosen the top deck nuts/screws, and have a bud hold the chassis on a FLAT surface while tightening the nuts.

Also check the "squarness" of the rear pod cage. I usually will take off the t-bar and do the steps above to the motor pod.

Don't count out front springs either. I had a real bad hooking problem and it turned out to be a bad front spring. I switched EVERYTHING on the car but the front springs (they "looked" good) and could not make it go away.A bud was watching my touring car hook during practice and suggested I try a stiffer front setup (thanks Mr.Cali).. So the bell went off in my head... put in a set of stiffer springs and the f1 car was hooked up .

TheOtherBill

Thanks jd, I had forgetten about that method to line things up.

GasGod

iTrader: (4)

Just be sure both front tires are the same dia.-or you will get a false tweek.
hell I'm even cheaper- I use pennies

Manny

Looks like they're re releasing this car, presumably on an f103 chassis.

1/10 R/C Wolf WR1 (Limited Edition) (Tentative)

I'd like to see the Lotus 79, Williams Fw07 or Brabham Bt50 re-released for the f103 too!

Obsidian

iTrader: (10)

Hello all,

I'm looking for some front aluminum uprights that allow ride height adjustment. anyone know who makes them and what the part # is?

Cheerz

downtempo

iTrader: (4)

I was told the Tamiya T body is a Yamaha replica, is this true?

If so, any suggestions on paint/team schemes?

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

Looks good in white.

downtempo

iTrader: (4)

^ I already did that w/ the Lotus and you're rocking the fast white car to boot.

What Yamaha powered teams can I scope out?