Tamiya F103 Forum
#76
I got them from Japan. They work as well as the Tamiya ones. They don't come with wheels though. You can get black or silver wheels as well as optional inserts. I'm using the optional inserts which fill the tires better.
#77
TFR
I think you must be running the Tamiya .4 pitch gears is you're running a 93T spur. None of my lhs's carry much in the way of Tamiya parts, so it's easier for me to get 48 pitch gears, that's why I use them. I just started running the car with a P2K, so I haven't experimented too much with it. The track that run at most of the time is fairly wide open, so I'll go with taller gearing there. This weekend I ran at 4.24:1 and it was perfect with the P2K motor. When I run at Castle, I will gear down because it's a much more technical track. I'll experiment during morning warm up. In CA, the weather is great for at least another month, so no indoor racing for me for a while!
Spooky
Yeah, Les order that chassis for me. I couldn't find it anywhere. Good to see you here again!
I think you must be running the Tamiya .4 pitch gears is you're running a 93T spur. None of my lhs's carry much in the way of Tamiya parts, so it's easier for me to get 48 pitch gears, that's why I use them. I just started running the car with a P2K, so I haven't experimented too much with it. The track that run at most of the time is fairly wide open, so I'll go with taller gearing there. This weekend I ran at 4.24:1 and it was perfect with the P2K motor. When I run at Castle, I will gear down because it's a much more technical track. I'll experiment during morning warm up. In CA, the weather is great for at least another month, so no indoor racing for me for a while!
Spooky
Yeah, Les order that chassis for me. I couldn't find it anywhere. Good to see you here again!
Last edited by psycho; 09-07-2001 at 11:00 AM.
#78
KINGZJ
The black can motor is a good motor. It doesn't quite have the grunt of a P2K, but you can be quite competitive with it. I found that the stock gearing (17/63) works best on my track which is pretty wide open with just a few straightaways. If you're on that type of track, you should be in good shape. If you race on a track that has a really long straighaway, you may have a problem. Because Tamiya parts are limited in my area, I have only experimented with 17T and 19T Tamiya pinions. I think the motor would perform better if a 16T or even 15T pinion were used. My brother just got an RX kit and put 48 pitch gears in it. He's running with a black can motor that I gave him and 19/75 gears and the car is fast.
The black can motor is a good motor. It doesn't quite have the grunt of a P2K, but you can be quite competitive with it. I found that the stock gearing (17/63) works best on my track which is pretty wide open with just a few straightaways. If you're on that type of track, you should be in good shape. If you race on a track that has a really long straighaway, you may have a problem. Because Tamiya parts are limited in my area, I have only experimented with 17T and 19T Tamiya pinions. I think the motor would perform better if a 16T or even 15T pinion were used. My brother just got an RX kit and put 48 pitch gears in it. He's running with a black can motor that I gave him and 19/75 gears and the car is fast.
#81
TFR
I'm sure Kimbrough has a 64 pitch gear that will fit the F103. I only use 48 pitch, so I've never looked for them. Unfortunately, Tamiya only uses those funky gear pitches. The high torque servo saver doesn't "activate" as easily as the standard one. It also fits together more snugly. I like it because it almost comletely eliminates the play from the front steering. I've also found that putting a 5X7 shim or two on the front axles before installing the wheels reduces quite a bit of play as well. You may have to back the wheel nuts off a bit to have the wheel spin smoothly, but you can git rid of all play on the front wheels this way. Kyosho sells a nice shim pack of .1, .2 and .3mm 5X7 shims. It's Kyosho part# 96643.
I'm sure Kimbrough has a 64 pitch gear that will fit the F103. I only use 48 pitch, so I've never looked for them. Unfortunately, Tamiya only uses those funky gear pitches. The high torque servo saver doesn't "activate" as easily as the standard one. It also fits together more snugly. I like it because it almost comletely eliminates the play from the front steering. I've also found that putting a 5X7 shim or two on the front axles before installing the wheels reduces quite a bit of play as well. You may have to back the wheel nuts off a bit to have the wheel spin smoothly, but you can git rid of all play on the front wheels this way. Kyosho sells a nice shim pack of .1, .2 and .3mm 5X7 shims. It's Kyosho part# 96643.
#82
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
the reason i am looking for some help with the black can motors is that at my local track we use the motor as kind of a spec motor so everyone is the same and everyone is also on the same tires but the problem comes in when a couple of the guys that have been around for many years can get a good 2-3 thousand more rpm and much more power (on a phantom dyno) than the rest of us and they will not share and i know it is not luck because some times they smoke their motors and the very next week they are back with a new one that is just as fast . I do know that the black motors are very sensitive to heat get them hot once and they are pretty much junk
On another note what is the best way to moutn the tamiya a compound tires (f1 or lemanns) I know their are a couple of different ways like glueing the insert to the rims and fillling the gap of the rears up but what is the really the best way for the most traction???????
On another note what is the best way to moutn the tamiya a compound tires (f1 or lemanns) I know their are a couple of different ways like glueing the insert to the rims and fillling the gap of the rears up but what is the really the best way for the most traction???????
#84
Ride ha ssome nice optional inserts that fit really well. You might wanna try that. I've toyed with the idea of fitting 2 stock inserts to fill the tire up too.
#86
KINGZJ
I went to the tamiya track today and asked some of the pros the same question the said. legal things you can do to them are power dip them were you strap a 4 cell battery to the motor directly and run it under water then flush and lube with motor spray.
another thing was you take another motor wire it upto a battery backwards and conect the tamiya motor to the other motor with silicon tubing and put bushing buster on the bushings. what this does is it spins the tamiya motor the right way and the bushing buster pollishes the bushings up real nice wich makes them as smooth as bearings in your motor.
some illegal things he said you could do is put the motor in a vice snad push the magnets closer to the armature.
and i didnt under stand this one too well but you hold the out put shaft with pliers and jam an allen wrench in the hole on the comm and you can adjust the timing.
thats all the closed end motor secrets i know so hope this helps.
I went to the tamiya track today and asked some of the pros the same question the said. legal things you can do to them are power dip them were you strap a 4 cell battery to the motor directly and run it under water then flush and lube with motor spray.
another thing was you take another motor wire it upto a battery backwards and conect the tamiya motor to the other motor with silicon tubing and put bushing buster on the bushings. what this does is it spins the tamiya motor the right way and the bushing buster pollishes the bushings up real nice wich makes them as smooth as bearings in your motor.
some illegal things he said you could do is put the motor in a vice snad push the magnets closer to the armature.
and i didnt under stand this one too well but you hold the out put shaft with pliers and jam an allen wrench in the hole on the comm and you can adjust the timing.
thats all the closed end motor secrets i know so hope this helps.
#89
Tech Initiate
What parts do I need to convert my F103 LM TRF to exaclty F1 kit?