astgerma52sp

iTrader: (19)

I'm updating to this diff on my F103. On TQ's site it says the 54162 shaft is need for it to work. Can I use another F104 shaft like the 84173 by tamiya or the F104-014SS by yeah racing?

terry.sc

The axle in the F104 diff doesn't go as far into the diff assembly than the F103. Any F104 axle will fit the F104 diff, and you can even cut the end off an F103 axle to shorten it to fit.

astgerma52sp

iTrader: (19)

Thanks, the tamiya version is about $15-17. I can get an after market brand for $3-7. Since they are all the same dimensions I'll buy the after market version at TQ Racing.

Ph3nyx

you can also buy a 6mm diameter carbon stem at your local hobby shop and cut it, you'll get 6 or 7 axle for less than 10$. The f104 axle is 110mm long

astgerma52sp

iTrader: (19)

Very creative. This is by far my favorite RC car. I've done some weird setups changes and it still drives like a dream. It's always planted and consistent even when I'm not!

evochick

iTrader: (5)

If you have cash to splash you can install the newer TRF 1 piece carbon axle/ diff assembly and clamp hub. Overkill i know but worked great in my 103 lemans car.

Ph3nyx

Yes, i'm also rebuilding an old one with a McLaren MP4/5B body. Those cars have a charm that no modern F1 could approach

HugoW

Hi guys,

I've bought, well, nothing, really. It's a bare F103 chassis, most parts are broken / worn. I think the servo mounting plate are usable! Well, I paid a tenner for it and I see it as a template and spare parts source.

This morning I bought an original FRP lower deck on ebay, and I am slowly making a list of parts to buy to 'scratch build' this F103. I will race it in the 2016 Dutch Tamiy Cup, so only Tamiya parts allowed. I don't want to spend a fortune on it, I don't like blue stuff unless it really adds something. What are the must-haves? So far I think or have questions about:
- Alloy motor plate, which adds stiffness and aids cooling.
- Carbon rear axle, reduces weight / inertia.
- I might upgrade the front suspension to the reinforced one (54153) or the link type (53258), although I don't see people racing the link type one.
- I though having balls of steel is a good thing, but I also read about ceramic ones?
- Would upgrading the diff housing to alloy (54158) reduce weight / increase stiffness?

Well, I'm in deep, no way back now. Please advise!

Cheers,

Hugo

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

Hello Hugo,

For the F103(are you sure?) you can only race it for a day win in the Dutch Tamiya Cup.
Must have for that chassis are:
Reinforced front suspension arms
F104 rear axle(none carbon)
F104 pro diff
One piece trust bearing for the diff
Alloy motormount with height adjusters
Soft t-bar
Ball suspension mount(use only the rearpart)
Ceramic diff balls
Exotec 48DP spur(yes you can and may use them)
Use f104 front tires because you can play more with ride height and wear them more to the rim
Use the alloy front steering knuckles from the F104ProII or F104 WGP as you can then adjust the front ride height better
For more tips and tricks, mail me

Regards Roy

HugoW

Hi Roy,

thanks. The Tamiya Cup allows all F103 variants, no limits or anything. I can compete for the Series Cup! Not that I can actually drive, but still, rules-wise I am not limited by an F103. Thanks for the list, I'll convert to Tamiya Part numbers and put in some orders when I can.

Wouldn't I need an F104W rear axle, or are those the same?

Any ideas about long or short upper deck? I feel the long would make the car too stiff. Most Cup cars I have seen have the friction damper disk thingy almost completely loose.

Cheers,

Hugo

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

Hello Hugo,

If you use the F104 alloy diff, you don't need the f104W axles as this is the F103 axle.
I recommend the steel axle as it gives you extra weight on the rear and there for more grip.
Also the carbon axle isn't something to use for a beginning F1 drives as it will brake on impact (depends on how hard offcourse)
The short topdeck is ok if you need more grip up front but you can also get that by running softer tires
The friction disks i would run the loose and only use 2(Original there are 3)
For Batteries, use the shorties as this gives a better left to right weight shifting.
About the ball suspension mount, up front use the stock mount and at the rear use the ball suspension system.
This will give you a very smooth operating t-bar and ths more grip again

Regards Roy

HugoW

Ah, you've seem me driving, then?

Thanks for all the info. I'm making the shopping list and somewhere in the next 6 months the car will be build.

I will certainly be back with more questions! BTW, what's your home track? Is it MRM?

Cheers,

Hugo

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

I have seen you driving Hugo and it has been improving a lot
Shopping list will be shorter when bying the correct parts first time around
And yes my home track is MRM

Regards Roy

HugoW

Exactly. You know that when shopping a bit wise I can build this car from all new parts, around the price of a new F104 kit? Although I then miss the body and wings. But buying the kit and then upgrade would be about twice the price.

I will be racing the old TT-01 at your track in two weeks time as you know, maybe we can meet up. I also think your track is nice one to learn F1 driving, when this year's Cup is done and the F103 is ready, I'll come down a few times to learn I hope.

Cheers,

Hugo

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

If you want a good car to learn F1 driving with and with all the parts you need, buy a F104WGP
200MM wide, a lot of bling blin alloy and T-bar

Regards Roy