BlackedOutREVO

iTrader: (67)

Yup, the heat sink fits VERY tightly on the sator of the motor

You actually have to get a heat gun and heat up the heat sink nice and hot so it expands, other wise it wont go on lol

I think the novak heatsink ring and a fan would be awsome, get 2 smaller fans I think would work wonders

Grizzbob

iTrader: (2)

Have a look at this thread, covers motor cooling & using the bonded rotor pretty throughly...
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=176307

Ashley Cobb

iTrader: (28)

yeah to answer your question, you don't want a peltier on your car...

common misconception is that they provide "free" cooling...

They get very cold, yes, but the other side of the peltier generates a LOT of heat, which you need to remove.

You're talking a big f-ck off fan and heatsink.

Good idea but!

Jamie Hanson

iTrader: (39)

Why is the track only allowing the bonded rotors? That is one reason Novak came out with the sintered roter, was to reduce heat issues and thermaling. I ran the sintered rotor in a 10.5 novak brushless a couple weeks ago in 105 degree outside heat.
The 13mm rotor was designed for mod racing. Not for the 13.5 or 10.5 motors. Novak is not marketing the rotor toward that market. Just for mod.
I would seriously have the track consider allowing the sintered rotors. That is the way the 10.5 and 13.5 motors are sold from Novak now.

kn7671

iTrader: (16)

I put the Novak cooler on both by 13.5 and SS5800 (8.5) with good success. It allows you to push the motor a little harder, and another side-benefit is that after completing your race, the motor cools off much quicker than without. Before installing the Novak heatsink, the motor would heat soak pretty bad for about 5-10 minutes before really cooling off.

As for a fan, you could probably find a way to add one, but a Brushless motor is already heavy enough, and without the Novak BL motors having cooling holes, the best you can do is draw the heat away from the motor, and the best way to do that is installing the Novak heatsink, which installs directly to the internal heat generating components of a BL motor.

jsl6v8

iTrader: (3)

ok stupid question of the day, why not pull out the can on the novak motor get your drill bit and drill a couple of small holes?

GreaseMonkey

iTrader: (4)

I'm thinking bout getting this when it comes out.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRXY6&P=7

I am also curious if teh Team Tamale fan mount works for the LRP brushless motors. Anyone know?

BlackedOutREVO

iTrader: (67)

Well just so you know

eagle racing has heatsinks in a bunch of colors (red, purple, silver, gun metal ETC)

rcmarket I think it is has them, I will give you a link, but there A TON cheaper then the lrp

IDK what your saying for the second question


EDIT, here you go

http://rcmarket.com.hk/index.php?cPath=72_81

There about half way down the page, there $12.80, and they work good, I know of a few people that sue them, but a more frequent poster here is rc zombies, and he likes it!

kn7671

iTrader: (16)

The Team Tamale, http://www.teamtamale.com/ , fan mount should fit any standard sized 540 motor, which includes the Novak Brushless motors.

chris moore

iTrader: (96)

I'll second the idea to push for sintered and skip the bonded altogether. As another poster mentioned I also think that all the new 13.5's have sintered standard so if you are all just now buying them you would have to buy a bonded and swap out the sintered anyway. As for heatsinks and fans this depends mostly on where you run and how fast you have to be in order to stay competitive. Here in the desert the air temps are 105 to 110F in the summer and the track temps hit in excess of 180F outdoors. Heatsinks and fans are a must here, but in other areas where temps are not so extreme thay may not be needed. FYI you can attach a fan to the side of the Novak "mohawk" heatsink and that will allow another 1 to 2 teeth if needed.

Chris

TheCoolCanFanMan

You guys might wana try the Cool Can Fans. This produsct has 2 fans sitting over the motor and the brush hood and can also be used inconjunction with brushless motors on a carbon fibre bracket which matches the carbon on your (within reason). What you don't want to do is have any part of a product physically touching the motor (other than the products that you remove prior to racing), so as to block any air vents there maybe in the motors, also damaging any lables, timing marks you have on the kans and hoods. The CCF is a stand alone product which is mounted onto existing fixings within the car, so there is no need for any cutting, filling, removing of any parts of the car whatsoever. We have found that it is far more benificial to extract the hot air from the motor kan, and to blow cool air onto the brushes to stop fade. We have sold in the region of 2,500 CCF kits to date and we have all the models to date for these kits and if not we will endevour to make them to order. I do hope this helps answer any of the heat issues, if you want ask and questions I would be more than welcome to ablige.
Cheers Malc TCFM
www.coolcanfan.com

CountryHick

iTrader: (26)

I think you will find they are made to use the bonded rotor because they run against brushed stock motors in the same class (Brisbane Australia). The bonded rotor 13.5 yields about the same power as a good brushed stock motor. The 13.5 with a sintered rotor is far more powerful giving to much of an advantage.

bxpitbull

iTrader: (6)

Eagle Racing, 3racing and Integy all have one similar....for a third the price. Thats ridiculous.

HarshGuy

iTrader: (6)

Get yourself one of these:

Click Here

And you can
Order it here

bxpitbull

iTrader: (6)

I've been looking at that system, but thats one heavy expenditure ($180) for something that hasnt been tested by any magazine. User tests are one thing, magazine tests carry weight.