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Old 09-09-2007, 11:32 PM   #31
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I bought a Hakko 918. Pretty simple and does a great job.
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Old 09-09-2007, 11:33 PM   #32
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The Hakko 936 is a good choice, but if you want to do good work on cirquit boards you wll want a small tip, like 2mm. You can get two irons for the station and switch them but the best way to go is the Hakko 928 dual soldering station. Then you can have a large handle and tip that will work for everything but batteries, and the teenie tip for cirquit board work. You can solder batteries with the 928 but its better done with a 456. 455 works great too but the 456 shows no mercy
Thats getting pretty spendy though

I use a 60 watt iron right now, I think 50 would be perfect

But I dont know, I dont do circuit work as I always screw something up, and then burn it out lol

Just soldering batt's, and Soldering the wire to my batts before each race
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Old 09-09-2007, 11:40 PM   #33
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As an (expensive) alternative to the Hakko line, there's also the Weller:
http://www.ampdraw.com/product.php?a...productid=3167

Or even a digital Weller:
http://www.ampdraw.com/product.php?a...productid=3166

I bought the regular, non-digital Weller from Superior at the 2004 Snowbirds, and man, that was probably the single best RC purchase I ever made. Small footprint, lightweight, easily replaceable tips (that are sold everywhere, including Home Depot and Fry's), heats up practically instantly. I love it.

The Hakko is also a good choice though, as many have said. I see the Hakko in more hobby shops around although I dunno what the tip availability is like. We used Hakko stations at XRC and they always got the job done (except for Derek's old beat-up Hakko that he must have left running for months at a time...)

In any case, going from an el-cheapo throwaway iron to a nice adjustable model like any of these is seriously one of the single best things you can do for yourself as an electric racer. Highly, highly recommended.
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Old 09-09-2007, 11:45 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO View Post
Thats getting pretty spendy though

I use a 60 watt iron right now, I think 50 would be perfect

But I dont know, I dont do circuit work as I always screw something up, and then burn it out lol

Just soldering batt's, and Soldering the wire to my batts before each race
The reason you screw cirquit board work up is because you use too big an iron. I used to do the delicate work with a big iron by using the corner of the iron tip, that takes too much skill. With the small tip I can do anything!

If all you are ever going to do is solder batteries together and into the car a Hakko 455 will do you just fine, forget about the stations.
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Old 09-10-2007, 02:04 PM   #35
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The reason you screw cirquit board work up is because you use too big an iron. I used to do the delicate work with a big iron by using the corner of the iron tip, that takes too much skill. With the small tip I can do anything!

If all you are ever going to do is solder batteries together and into the car a Hakko 455 will do you just fine, forget about the stations.
No, I have tried a 40 watt with a small-ish tip

Nothing as small as some I have seen at my track though, that really kills stuff? Just tip size?


WOW, those weller's are SPENDY

Hakko for me, I need one, but no money right now lol
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Old 09-10-2007, 03:11 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO View Post
No, I have tried a 40 watt with a small-ish tip

Nothing as small as some I have seen at my track though, that really kills stuff? Just tip size?


WOW, those weller's are SPENDY

Hakko for me, I need one, but no money right now lol
With a big tip you heat up too large an area, a small tip just puts the heat where you want the solder joint. I'm not talking about soldering big wires for the motor, etc on the speed control, but switch wires or wires inside the servo, esc, rec. For that, small is good
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Old 09-10-2007, 08:09 PM   #37
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OD ever solder a FET on a mini Z board?
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Old 09-10-2007, 08:10 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by futureal View Post
As an (expensive) alternative to the Hakko line, there's also the Weller:
http://www.ampdraw.com/product.php?a...productid=3167

Or even a digital Weller:
http://www.ampdraw.com/product.php?a...productid=3166

I bought the regular, non-digital Weller from Superior at the 2004 Snowbirds, and man, that was probably the single best RC purchase I ever made. Small footprint, lightweight, easily replaceable tips (that are sold everywhere, including Home Depot and Fry's), heats up practically instantly. I love it.

The Hakko is also a good choice though, as many have said. I see the Hakko in more hobby shops around although I dunno what the tip availability is like. We used Hakko stations at XRC and they always got the job done (except for Derek's old beat-up Hakko that he must have left running for months at a time...)

In any case, going from an el-cheapo throwaway iron to a nice adjustable model like any of these is seriously one of the single best things you can do for yourself as an electric racer. Highly, highly recommended.
You can order Hakko tips directly from Hakko
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Old 09-10-2007, 08:24 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
With a big tip you heat up too large an area, a small tip just puts the heat where you want the solder joint. I'm not talking about soldering big wires for the motor, etc on the speed control, but switch wires or wires inside the servo, esc, rec. For that, small is good
Makes sense
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Old 09-10-2007, 08:43 PM   #40
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I've been through a couple of crappy irons that were nothing but trouble when it came to soldering batts and leads, I just picked up a $20.00 weller 40W iron with a chisel tip and it works beautifully. It's nice and light, packs up small and gets to 900F

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Old 09-10-2007, 09:02 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Blisster View Post
I've been through a couple of crappy irons that were nothing but trouble when it came to soldering batts and leads, I just picked up a $20.00 weller 40W iron with a chisel tip and it works beautifully. It's nice and light, packs up small and gets to 900F

Now thats a soldering iron...
12 years and have been threw 3. Never had one go bad, its always been my fault for it going bad.
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Old 09-10-2007, 10:24 PM   #42
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Now thats a soldering iron...
12 years and have been threw 3. Never had one go bad, its always been my fault for it going bad.

yeah, the Hakko 936's and the higher end station type irons are nice for sure, but I'd rather spend the extra 60-80 on a servo, tires, a-arms, whatever, and this thing does everything I need a soldering iron to do.
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Old 09-10-2007, 11:37 PM   #43
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OD ever solder a FET on a mini Z board?
No, but that never stopped me before
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Old 09-11-2007, 06:51 AM   #44
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Back in the early 90's I used to make money at the local track replacing brake fets in Novak 4s and T4s. Went right to the local electronics parts supplier and bought the fets by the dozen. I'd go to an oval race and sell out. Who needs brakes in oval? Never stopped people from wanting them replaced, though.. It was a quick way to make my race entry back.
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Old 09-11-2007, 05:34 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UN4RACING View Post
Now thats a soldering iron...
12 years and have been threw 3. Never had one go bad, its always been my fault for it going bad.
Is the weller 80W overkill for our application (soldering batt & motor leads)?
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