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Old 09-03-2009, 08:14 AM   #916
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Hi Martin!


I fired up evo 3 10.5T (got about 130C and plastics from wires fall down...),
so rotor 12.5mm got only one run if it is still usable or one temp like that and
rotor is fu....



Regards!
m.

ps: I will try rebuilt some other engine with this rotor ... ~20Euros go away ...
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Old 09-03-2009, 08:22 AM   #917
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My friend, you can still practice with this rotor, but no good results during competition....
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Old 09-04-2009, 05:41 AM   #918
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Default GM 10.5 advise

Iam moving up to 10.5 and have just bought a GM 10.5. I run an xray 09 with lipo and a speedpassion GT2 pro esc. Has any one run this motor with a GT2 ?? what settings did you run. Also does this motor come with fixing or adjustable timing as standard. Any other info you guys think I should know about this motor and 10.5 in general would be help full.
Thanks
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Old 09-04-2009, 10:07 AM   #919
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Thanks Martin its been ripped off now =P.


Flatout,
Havnt run the gm 10.5 motor with a GT2 esc only a GM 120. All GM motors have fixed timing as standard but the variable timing end plates are available. Generally the GM motor runs cooler due to the big cooling holes.

-Hope this helps
-Jonny
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Old 09-04-2009, 01:04 PM   #920
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonny123 View Post
Thanks Martin its been ripped off now =P.


Flatout,
Havnt run the gm 10.5 motor with a GT2 esc only a GM 120. All GM motors have fixed timing as standard but the variable timing end plates are available. Generally the GM motor runs cooler due to the big cooling holes.

-Hope this helps
-Jonny
Thanks Jonny, Do you run the motor standard or with the timing ring. Also what sort of gearing should I be looking at for Cotswolds. I know we have different esc but a ball park figure would be help full.
Thanks Again
Adrian
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Old 09-05-2009, 08:01 AM   #921
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Hi adrian, Sorry for the late reply. I always run the motor as standard i know some people who have tried the variable timing plate and then having to turn the motor timing down into minus's so theres not much point. A good starting point for cotswolds is about 4.5.

Jonny
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Old 09-05-2009, 08:29 AM   #922
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it should be noted that the variable timing plate isn't legal for 10.5 and mod in the uk.....
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Old 09-05-2009, 10:08 AM   #923
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke Hobson View Post
it should be noted that the variable timing plate isn't legal for 10.5 and mod in the uk.....
Thats handy to know nice one
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Old 09-05-2009, 02:57 PM   #924
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Anyone know the standard rotor size that comes in the GM 6t delta?

Assuming its not a 12.3 what benifit would the 12.3 give me to the standard rotor?

Thanks
-Jonny
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Old 09-05-2009, 04:52 PM   #925
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The last 6 turn I had came with a red ringed rotor which is 12.5mm - which IMHO is probably the best all round rotor for mod racing. The 12.3 (purple ring) is a lot weaker as the core of the rotor/shaft diameter is 7.3ish rather than 5mm ish (it's a long time since i bothered to measure them - hence i'm not 100% sure!) so there is quite a lot less "magnet".

The weaker rotor will obviously have more RPM and less torque, but personally i'm not convinced i'd run it in a 6 turn - BUT, I haven't tried it.
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Old 09-06-2009, 02:08 AM   #926
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Has anybody tried the GM120 already indoor on carpet? The winter season is comming up and I want to race it indoor. Is the stock how to suitable for inside? Any advice ont gearratio with 13.5? Thanx in advance!!
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Old 09-07-2009, 08:06 AM   #927
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Hi I have GM120 and Novak 10.5. Both are new. Its hesitant from zero revs 1 time in 5 and the car has not been put on the track yet. I continuity tested sensor cable and board on motor and they seem fine. My Tekin RS and BMC are butter smooth. Is this thing a dud? Am I missing something? Any ideas?
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Old 09-07-2009, 11:23 AM   #928
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Rogier,
the GM 120 is great indoors, you dont really need to change much in 13.5 just get a good gear ratio and maybe turn your amp limit down.

hana166,
I'd recomend re-doing the transmitter and take ur time in doing this. U MUST hold throttle and brake for 3 seconds and let it go back to neutral for a second in between modes. PS: if the cogging is very minor in the pits you probably wont feel it on the track.

-Jonny
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Old 09-07-2009, 12:33 PM   #929
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Thanks jonny123 I will try this. There is a connector/converter sensor cable included, and I have found a dry joint in the connector which is poorly assembled. I have fixed it and it seems better but not perfect. I have ordered cable 2894.4 so I can go direct from motor to ESC.

I had a few laps with it, the power is absolutely incredible. I suppose its just a matter of experimenting with gearing, motor timing and profile to get the temps acceptable.

It has firmware 4.9, I wonder if the later versions are more refined in the delivery?
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Old 09-08-2009, 03:41 AM   #930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kajman View Post
My friend, you can still practice with this rotor, but no good results during competition....
false .. the rotor is surely not damaged ...

the only way you can weaken your rotor (if it'S a gm) is by heating up the rotor not the motor! and that you can only achieve when the air/track temp is super high, you disable the current limiter and have a 180 turn at the end of a atleast 55m long straightaway ... then you might eventually demagnetize the rotor

other than that it's fine

Quote:
Originally Posted by MattW View Post
The last 6 turn I had came with a red ringed rotor which is 12.5mm - which IMHO is probably the best all round rotor for mod racing. The 12.3 (purple ring) is a lot weaker as the core of the rotor/shaft diameter is 7.3ish rather than 5mm ish (it's a long time since i bothered to measure them - hence i'm not 100% sure!) so there is quite a lot less "magnet".

The weaker rotor will obviously have more RPM and less torque, but personally i'm not convinced i'd run it in a 6 turn - BUT, I haven't tried it.
6T has always been delivered with 12.5mm rotor (the pro ones atleast) and this won't change

we use the 12.5mm rotor (red faceplate) in every motor/winding actually ... no need for somthing else

Quote:
Originally Posted by hana166 View Post
Thanks jonny123 I will try this. There is a connector/converter sensor cable included, and I have found a dry joint in the connector which is poorly assembled. I have fixed it and it seems better but not perfect. I have ordered cable 2894.4 so I can go direct from motor to ESC.

I had a few laps with it, the power is absolutely incredible. I suppose its just a matter of experimenting with gearing, motor timing and profile to get the temps acceptable.

It has firmware 4.9, I wonder if the later versions are more refined in the delivery?
a slight cog from 0revs on might occure from time to time with the older firmware standings
this has been fixed with fw7.2 butas said it only occures from time to time and then very minor and not while driving

note! don't let your car be pushed backwards at the start as this will cause cogging as the speedo needs to find the magnet first
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