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Old 10-23-2011, 12:30 AM   #2716
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Hello,

The captors of my two gm pro motors (4.5 et 5.5) are not working any more (it is not a wire problem, it works with other motors).

Is it possible to change it ? What is the ref ?
Is it existing a special problem that broke the captors ?

Thanx !
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Old 10-23-2011, 02:13 AM   #2717
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Originally Posted by chris_dono View Post
Sounds like you were hitting a capacity cutoff, you have it set to 5000mah, I'd change that, but also your firmware is 12.4, upgrade that to 13 (if you're running nationals in stock you can't use 13.1)
why is 13.1 illegal?
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Old 10-23-2011, 02:53 AM   #2718
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After driving 2 years with a Tekin speedo in 1/12th, 1S, 10.5 Boosted I switched to a GM 75.
Downloaded the Euro's 10.5 setting and all I can say is: "Wow" .
Reason why I wanted to dump the tekin is the lack of throttle response and the fact that I got a ton of power in the first 2 minutes, then it fades away to almost nothing.

The GM gives an enormous amount of torque which stays the complete 8 minutes! This translates in a very nice throttle feeling.
Outright top end speed isnt as high as the tekin was, but its close and faster out of the turns. Motortemps are a cool 55 degrees.

Only problem I have is, when the car gets flipped (occasionally off course ). It seems to be sitting dead for 2seconds or so (waiting to get sensor readings??). After that I can drive along. However, this is very annoying and stressfull when it happens on the straight..
Can anyone shed some light on this?
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Old 10-24-2011, 02:03 AM   #2719
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quante View Post
After driving 2 years with a Tekin speedo in 1/12th, 1S, 10.5 Boosted I switched to a GM 75.
Downloaded the Euro's 10.5 setting and all I can say is: "Wow" .
Reason why I wanted to dump the tekin is the lack of throttle response and the fact that I got a ton of power in the first 2 minutes, then it fades away to almost nothing.

The GM gives an enormous amount of torque which stays the complete 8 minutes! This translates in a very nice throttle feeling.
Outright top end speed isnt as high as the tekin was, but its close and faster out of the turns. Motortemps are a cool 55 degrees.

Only problem I have is, when the car gets flipped (occasionally off course ). It seems to be sitting dead for 2seconds or so (waiting to get sensor readings??). After that I can drive along. However, this is very annoying and stressfull when it happens on the straight..
Can anyone shed some light on this?
Are you running a switchpoint?

What motor are you running?

When it's dead, do you have steering?
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Old 10-24-2011, 04:21 AM   #2720
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Originally Posted by daleburr View Post
Are you running a switchpoint?

What motor are you running?

When it's dead, do you have steering?

I'm running this setup:
http://www.gm-racing.de/rwdownload/i...?url=&dlid=145
As far as I remember, it has a switchpoint setup.

Only thing I changed is the telemetrie that has been put on.
I'm running a Fantom Ion2 10.5, geared at around 53mm.

I use a receiver pack, steering kept working, the car just doesnt move.
I had this problem before with an old Tekin R1, cause it lost lock on the rotor.
But this shouldnt be there when using sensors.
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Old 10-24-2011, 11:24 AM   #2721
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That was a setup Chris ran on 4 cell. Looking at my own lipo 12th settings, I used the voltage cutoff at 2.5V, so if you are running lipo i'd suggest changing to this.
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Old 10-24-2011, 02:39 PM   #2722
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Originally Posted by MattW View Post
That was a setup Chris ran on 4 cell. Looking at my own lipo 12th settings, I used the voltage cutoff at 2.5V, so if you are running lipo i'd suggest changing to this.
Hmm, voltage cutoff to 2.5V isnt really something I would consider... as far as I can remember, minimum lipo voltage is 3V. I've idd set the cutoff to 3V iso. 3.3V .
But I didnt know this was a 4cell file, thx for the info.
On the other hand, power is incredible then, since I use the timing it was set: 12.
But does anyone know about the "sitting like a duck on the straight" part of my post?

I'll try some more on sunday
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Old 10-24-2011, 03:34 PM   #2723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quante View Post
After driving 2 years with a Tekin speedo in 1/12th, 1S, 10.5 Boosted I switched to a GM 75.
Downloaded the Euro's 10.5 setting and all I can say is: "Wow" .
Reason why I wanted to dump the tekin is the lack of throttle response and the fact that I got a ton of power in the first 2 minutes, then it fades away to almost nothing.

The GM gives an enormous amount of torque which stays the complete 8 minutes! This translates in a very nice throttle feeling.
Outright top end speed isnt as high as the tekin was, but its close and faster out of the turns. Motortemps are a cool 55 degrees.

Only problem I have is, when the car gets flipped (occasionally off course ). It seems to be sitting dead for 2seconds or so (waiting to get sensor readings??). After that I can drive along. However, this is very annoying and stressfull when it happens on the straight..
Can anyone shed some light on this?
It happens, you'll get used to it
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Old 10-24-2011, 03:34 PM   #2724
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It's your call if you follow or not - but IMHO the reason it stops, is because the ESC has re-booted due to the voltage setting. It's something that i've seen a lot, it was much worse with the older ESC, but the newer one can suffer also. Hence if you lower it, it shouldn't re-boot.
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Old 10-24-2011, 04:09 PM   #2725
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It's your call if you follow or not - but IMHO the reason it stops, is because the ESC has re-booted due to the voltage setting. It's something that i've seen a lot, it was much worse with the older ESC, but the newer one can suffer also. Hence if you lower it, it shouldn't re-boot.
I still have it with 2.1v cutoff set Matt, it seems to be a 'feature'
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Old 10-25-2011, 01:00 AM   #2726
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If it gets soft and then cuts out, the voltage setting is too high, if it just cuts out the voltage setting is too low! means: the processor needs a certain voltage to even work. Even the slightest drop below this voltage will cause a reboot. hence if you set the cut off voltage higher, the voltage doesn't dump below the reboot value
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Old 10-25-2011, 07:43 AM   #2727
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Default Timing on the Gm 10.5

Trying hard to find out what is the timing advance on the 10.5 motor on the standard central setting and how much difference it makes when you advance it on the end bell.
Can anyone help?
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Old 10-25-2011, 11:20 AM   #2728
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin Hofer View Post
If it gets soft and then cuts out, the voltage setting is too high, if it just cuts out the voltage setting is too low! means: the processor needs a certain voltage to even work. Even the slightest drop below this voltage will cause a reboot. hence if you set the cut off voltage higher, the voltage doesn't dump below the reboot value
Hi Martin,
But I'm using a receiver pack and it still cuts out after a hit.
Maybe I'd better check my electrical connections...
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Old 10-25-2011, 11:22 AM   #2729
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Martin is correct - it isn't as simple as just making it as low as possible and living with it. You want to run it as high as you can get away with - so it could be that you're too low Chris. When we ran 4 cell, we found that my ESC was actually better on a different setting to CK's - no obvious reason. I only did 1 race last year, but i guessed at 2.5V and it ran faultlessly for 2 days.
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Old 10-25-2011, 01:18 PM   #2730
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin Hofer View Post
If it gets soft and then cuts out, the voltage setting is too high, if it just cuts out the voltage setting is too low! means: the processor needs a certain voltage to even work. Even the slightest drop below this voltage will cause a reboot. hence if you set the cut off voltage higher, the voltage doesn't dump below the reboot value
Quote:
Originally Posted by MattW View Post
Martin is correct - it isn't as simple as just making it as low as possible and living with it. You want to run it as high as you can get away with - so it could be that you're too low Chris. When we ran 4 cell, we found that my ESC was actually better on a different setting to CK's - no obvious reason. I only did 1 race last year, but i guessed at 2.5V and it ran faultlessly for 2 days.
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Originally Posted by Quante View Post
Hi Martin,
But I'm using a receiver pack and it still cuts out after a hit.
Maybe I'd better check my electrical connections...
The last post here is the exact behaviour we're describing, it can happen on lap 1 with a fully charged battery. If you hit something and the car rolls backward it takes a second or two to get going again, I've tried lots of different voltage cutoffs, even went to "Lipo mode" (250) It happens with them all.
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