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Old 11-23-2007, 08:40 AM   #136
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Hi,
we ran our EVO3 4T at carpetwars this month, and during the race we received a very light glancing blow coming off a corner. Almost immediately the car coasted to a stop and we retired. when I got the car back to the pits, the motor would not run under its own steam at all unless you nudged the spur gear, then the motor would stutter at best then die. We use an LRP Sphere TC Spec speedo, and when we attempted to run the motor, every one of the warning led's lit up at once.

We substituted the motor and ran fine for the rest of the meet after purchasing a motor guard. My question is this, does this sound like a sensor board failure?. I have already ordered one to try, but i'm just checking that it may be something else. The motor ran fine before the coming together.

Can I also ask as I do not fully understand brushless yet, are the rotor's the same, regardless of what motor they are in? - i.e is a 3.5T rotor the same as a 4T rotor and so on?
Sorry for my ignorance, but if you don't ask you don't learn.
phil.

firstly tell alex to stop hitting stuff.

secondly yes it could be ther sensor board, but try removing the rotor and re shimming it closer to the sensors....this may help as many have done this already..ask mark34....

the rotors for gm motors are probably the same but you can get different ones to give different "feels" main difference is the diameter of the rotor, and whether its sintered (shiney) or bonded ( black or dull ), sintered is what alex will need for his speed rush.

I think we are all still learning brushless here in UK, but reshim the motor first imo.
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Old 11-23-2007, 11:01 AM   #137
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It's a sensor fault - either the lead, which you sound slike you've eliminated by changing the motor - or the board. I have had a couple fail, in my experience it's usually just a damaged solder joint on the board.
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Old 11-23-2007, 11:25 AM   #138
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Yes definately a sensor board error. replacing this one should help.

stop hitting things will prevent further problems

Regarding the rotors:

our sintered mags are all black and yes they are usually the same even thoug they feel different in different motors i.e. 7T has much less "rest moment" with a 12,5mm mag than a 3,5T or 4T.

We use different diameters to generate different feelings on power and on the brakes.
You have to find out what fits your driving style best, but most of our teamdrivers use 12mm mags regardless which motor they use. But they nearly always use a 3,5T self restriction ? why should we
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Old 11-23-2007, 11:44 AM   #139
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Yes definately a sensor board error. replacing this one should help.

stop hitting things will prevent further problems

Regarding the rotors:

our sintered mags are all black and yes they are usually the same even thoug they feel different in different motors i.e. 7T has much less "rest moment" with a 12,5mm mag than a 3,5T or 4T.

We use different diameters to generate different feelings on power and on the brakes.
You have to find out what fits your driving style best, but most of our teamdrivers use 12mm mags regardless which motor they use. But they nearly always use a 3,5T self restriction ? why should we
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Old 11-24-2007, 03:52 AM   #140
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Originally Posted by ooliganRC View Post
phil.

firstly tell alex to stop hitting stuff.

secondly yes it could be ther sensor board, but try removing the rotor and re shimming it closer to the sensors....this may help as many have done this already..ask mark34....

the rotors for gm motors are probably the same but you can get different ones to give different "feels" main difference is the diameter of the rotor, and whether its sintered (shiney) or bonded ( black or dull ), sintered is what alex will need for his speed rush.

I think we are all still learning brushless here in UK, but reshim the motor first imo.
Harsh Pete first time in a while we dont hit something, we get rear ended instead by somebody Cheers for the other info though.
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Old 11-24-2007, 03:54 AM   #141
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Originally Posted by Martin Hofer View Post
Yes definately a sensor board error. replacing this one should help.

stop hitting things will prevent further problems

Regarding the rotors:

our sintered mags are all black and yes they are usually the same even thoug they feel different in different motors i.e. 7T has much less "rest moment" with a 12,5mm mag than a 3,5T or 4T.

We use different diameters to generate different feelings on power and on the brakes.
You have to find out what fits your driving style best, but most of our teamdrivers use 12mm mags regardless which motor they use. But they nearly always use a 3,5T self restriction ? why should we
Thanks a lot Martin
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Old 11-25-2007, 03:32 AM   #142
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Use an isulation plastic shim (0.3mm-0.5mm) between the sensor solder points and the rear endbell alloy part and use a new sensor board. Maybe the black eloxation is destroyed from vibrations and so the sensors can be short circuited. Also solder points can go open from vibrations.
That's why GM-drivers mainly drive sensorless. Never having problems with sensors...
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Old 12-03-2007, 04:30 PM   #143
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Hi,
here is as attachement my genius95 setup.
I need a little more brake and better punch out of corner which parameters should I raise? min or max brake and max amp or deal with throttle curve?
Thanks in advance.
Attached Thumbnails
GM Brushless-genius95.jpg  
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Old 12-04-2007, 02:45 AM   #144
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maxbrake 75% (I use 95 - 100% but depends on the driver)

fullbrake = maxbrake

amplimit 180

maxreverse 0

power curve neutral

that should have enough rip to light up the carpet
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Old 12-04-2007, 08:46 AM   #145
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Thanks Martin,I'll test this config at Sines Carpet Wars next weekend,btw you are all invited

Since GM as unbeatable costumer support,I think you dont mind to answer one more question.
What min brake option do?is it dependent from max or full brake?
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Old 12-04-2007, 08:55 AM   #146
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no it is an independent value.

the moment you touch the brake the very first brake impulse is not 1% but it starts at 20 or so. this enables you to have more feeling for the range between 20 and x (maxvalue).

if you set minbrake to 40 and max to 60, the minimal brake that slows down your car is 40% of the maximum. the max brakeforce is 60% of the maximum. but you can dose the brake very good between 40 and 60 (which would be 0 and 100 brake on the tx)
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Old 12-04-2007, 11:10 AM   #147
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Hi i am friend of Afonso and we both are using GM, with his help and Martin Hofer help, i won the last race with GM100, i loved the felling of it, but i will need some more help to get it better.

As Afonso said all of you are inveted to Sines Race, if not this time next time, we would like learn more. Thanks Martin.
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Old 02-03-2008, 01:09 PM   #148
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Default Help please

Hi Guys i have just purcased the programmer, now to the instructions are useless would be harsh more confusing maybe. Anyway which lead out of the 2 supplied do you use to do the programing and the instuctions mention charging the unit how do yo do this
TIA
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Old 02-04-2008, 04:42 AM   #149
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Charging the Programmer:
Put 5-30V to the input or put the speedo to the output and plug it in.

Programming: It's best to play a little with it.
It must be in receive mode to receive datas. Then push the Set-button on the speedo and plug it in during you push the Set-button......
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Old 02-04-2008, 06:54 AM   #150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by habicht View Post
Charging the Programmer:
Put 5-30V to the input or put the speedo to the output and plug it in.

Programming: It's best to play a little with it.
It must be in receive mode to receive datas. Then push the Set-button on the speedo and plug it in during you push the Set-button......
Hi thanks still not quite what i want to know there are 2 leads in the box one is a standard hall sensor lead and the other is a hall sensor lead with what appears to be a circuit board halfway along which lead for setting the speedo
TIA
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