Xray T2'008
10-19-2009, 05:57 PM
#1802
Quick question....
For rubber carpet i want the euro edition right?
For rubber carpet i want the euro edition right?
10-30-2009, 11:20 AM
#1805
I was just checking the X-ray forum for setup sheets and noticed about 50% of people run higher ride height in the back then front.
My current setup is this way (5.4mm Front and 5.0 back).
However the other 50% have it reversed.
Why would someone choose to run higher in the back then front and under what conditions?
My current setup is this way (5.4mm Front and 5.0 back).
However the other 50% have it reversed.
Why would someone choose to run higher in the back then front and under what conditions?
10-31-2009, 01:09 PM
#1806
New to TC Racing, setup advice...
Greets all,
I made the mistake of stopping by my "local" carpet track and now I have the bug. I have some skills as I used to race offroad (and recently started again), but the on road seems to have much more to consider while setting it up. Just a few simple questions for now...
Sorry if this has already been answered, but I've read through 60+ pages of this thread and I'm just getting overloaded with info.
I get a really good deal on a T2'008 yesterday, but it was the US foam version. The place I will race is rubber on carpet. Being new, will it really make much difference on which version I have?
If it will, what do I need (should) to do to make it better for rubber/carpet?
Also, I'll be running 2s lipo with a 13.5 motor, what should I be looking at for gearing?
Thanks in advance for any advice.....now off to read more pages.
I made the mistake of stopping by my "local" carpet track and now I have the bug. I have some skills as I used to race offroad (and recently started again), but the on road seems to have much more to consider while setting it up. Just a few simple questions for now...
Sorry if this has already been answered, but I've read through 60+ pages of this thread and I'm just getting overloaded with info.
I get a really good deal on a T2'008 yesterday, but it was the US foam version. The place I will race is rubber on carpet. Being new, will it really make much difference on which version I have?
If it will, what do I need (should) to do to make it better for rubber/carpet?
Also, I'll be running 2s lipo with a 13.5 motor, what should I be looking at for gearing?
Thanks in advance for any advice.....now off to read more pages.
10-31-2009, 02:49 PM
#1808
Tech Regular
iTrader: (22)
Gearing is all going to depend on the motor and ESC and track...
On my Novak GTB and Novak 13.5 I am using a 102 spur and 42 pinion on the 1.7 final drive pulleys. I am still running plenty cool and could stand to go up a tooth on the pinion, so you may be able to use the same gearing with your Tekin....
On my Novak GTB and Novak 13.5 I am using a 102 spur and 42 pinion on the 1.7 final drive pulleys. I am still running plenty cool and could stand to go up a tooth on the pinion, so you may be able to use the same gearing with your Tekin....
10-31-2009, 03:33 PM
#1809
I havent started building it yet, its my project while I travel next week. But, I was looking through the manual and noticed the "flex" settings and thought about the softer setting.
I'll just have to play with gearing once its finally built.
10-31-2009, 07:26 PM
#1810
You got a great little chassis. I just got started again after picking up an used EU 08.
The main differences besides the foam tires are the plastic arms and hubs for the foam are stiffer. The dogbones are shorter and the upper deck has different geometry to help stiffen the chassis more.
With rubber, I would suggest the following: download the manual from Xray and go through the chassis and build it to the rubber specs. There are a few places were they are different like hinge pin blocks heights, diff heights, shocks positions, ankerman etc.
Flex has a lot of effects on how the car runs on carpet with rubber. Look at the manual and notice the differnce of how the rubber and foam top brace differ. I would try to match the holes used by the EU deck and not use the remainder US spec bolts. On my Eu car I went as far as removing even more screws up front to gain more traction (thanks Melvin at Nexus for this tip!).
The other option is see if you can pick a used eu top deck. I think if you match the EU spec setup as much as you can and then run a loose US spec top plate you will be pretty darn close.
Hope this helps
The main differences besides the foam tires are the plastic arms and hubs for the foam are stiffer. The dogbones are shorter and the upper deck has different geometry to help stiffen the chassis more.
With rubber, I would suggest the following: download the manual from Xray and go through the chassis and build it to the rubber specs. There are a few places were they are different like hinge pin blocks heights, diff heights, shocks positions, ankerman etc.
Flex has a lot of effects on how the car runs on carpet with rubber. Look at the manual and notice the differnce of how the rubber and foam top brace differ. I would try to match the holes used by the EU deck and not use the remainder US spec bolts. On my Eu car I went as far as removing even more screws up front to gain more traction (thanks Melvin at Nexus for this tip!).
The other option is see if you can pick a used eu top deck. I think if you match the EU spec setup as much as you can and then run a loose US spec top plate you will be pretty darn close.
Hope this helps
10-31-2009, 07:36 PM
#1811
I will have plenty of time (and hopefully a parts source in NorCal) to build this over the next 2 weeks. Not that it will take that long, but might as well change whatever needs to be changed while I'm at it.
Is the EU top deck a direct fit? Is there a rear deck as well?
11-01-2009, 05:57 AM
#1812
It is, and yes there is a back piece as well.
Depending on what parts you got with ur used chassis you will likely be able to dial it in pretty good for starts without specific eu pieces.
The thing to remember is with rubber there is less traction than with foam so "relative" softer and flexible seems to work better.
Depending on what parts you got with ur used chassis you will likely be able to dial it in pretty good for starts without specific eu pieces.
The thing to remember is with rubber there is less traction than with foam so "relative" softer and flexible seems to work better.
11-01-2009, 07:28 AM
#1813
It is, and yes there is a back piece as well.
Depending on what parts you got with ur used chassis you will likely be able to dial it in pretty good for starts without specific eu pieces.
The thing to remember is with rubber there is less traction than with foam so "relative" softer and flexible seems to work better.
Depending on what parts you got with ur used chassis you will likely be able to dial it in pretty good for starts without specific eu pieces.
The thing to remember is with rubber there is less traction than with foam so "relative" softer and flexible seems to work better.
11-06-2009, 01:28 PM
#1814
Battery Tray
Recently bought a NIB 008, which I've just finished building. My Intellect IP3800's fit under the top deck (US edition) but the corally tubes position is under the deck! I've seen the Bitty Designs Lipo tray and the Xray Chassis Weights with the L shaped holders but I can't find anyone with one in stock.
Any other options? What are others doing?
Cheers
Any other options? What are others doing?
Cheers
11-06-2009, 03:09 PM
#1815
Nexus typically has the L shaped weights. I bought them and am currently using them, but truthfully, a strip of lead on the battery pack works just as good... I weighthed all my packs and got them to weight equally. Some of the packs, like the Orion pack, required lead to weight the same as the Thunder and SMC packs. I tried to match battery CGs as cell. This way the overall car balance is not changed as I changed batteries.
I use the L shape pieces to help support the battery from moving outboard. One of the larger trapezoidal pieces supports the battery from moving inboard.
For batteries with the molded cell tubes underneath, what I have done is insert the pack upsidedown. Then very carefully drilled through the battery case so I can insert the bullet connectors. I also ID the positive terminal with a dab of red paint. Works like a charm, allows the battery to seat nice and flat low on the chassis.
I use the L shape pieces to help support the battery from moving outboard. One of the larger trapezoidal pieces supports the battery from moving inboard.
For batteries with the molded cell tubes underneath, what I have done is insert the pack upsidedown. Then very carefully drilled through the battery case so I can insert the bullet connectors. I also ID the positive terminal with a dab of red paint. Works like a charm, allows the battery to seat nice and flat low on the chassis.