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Old 08-12-2007, 09:33 PM   #16
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My take is gear to about 120 to 140 degrees 130 is perfect and if you have to gear higher than that temp to go faster then put in a faster motor, but gear it to the same temp.

My testing is that in a 20 minute main at 130 any motor will make awesome run time. The cooler temp is more efficient. If you run hot you are killing run time and getting to close to the thermal point.

One more test on carpet is that a 4300 would peak as high as 150 to 170 on a medium track. The motor was over exerting itself because it was over geared to go as fast as the track could go.
I threw in a 5.5 and it would come off 120 degrees because it was to fast to gear that high.
I'm sure driving skills and batteries count in as well. I was running lipos.
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Old 08-12-2007, 09:36 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skypilot View Post
..
You mean like rotors with spiral designs and hexagon shapes and hollowed out to get more rpm and such.?
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Old 08-12-2007, 09:39 PM   #18
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You mean like rotors with spiral designs and hexagon shapes and hollowed out to get more rpm and such.?
I think .. equals "ditto".

Oops! He deleted his original post. No problem.
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Last edited by Still Bill; 08-12-2007 at 09:59 PM.
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Old 08-12-2007, 09:39 PM   #19
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For stock rubber tire and normal tracks start off at 5.0 FDR, then go down in FDR (up in pinion) until you reach the best lap times. If you are running on a smaller track and have lots of bite, you might start at 5.4 or thereabouts, but I doubt it.

- Here's a little advice for ya- the reason I gave a good starting point is b/c you shouldn't listen to anyone at your track unless you race with national winners. That might sound a little a$$holish, but trust me here. Start out with the gearing I gave you, run 5 laps to knock the peak voltage off, the run 2 more and get a good average. Go immediately and add a tooth, while the motor and tires are still warm, run 5 laps, disregard what you think you feel on the track and look at the laptimes. If they avg faster, then add another tooth. You can even pop the battery with 6-7 amps while you're changing pinions just to give you a couple more laps of comparison. It's not gonna kill the pack to do that once in it's life.
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Old 08-12-2007, 09:52 PM   #20
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Actually, I don't currently use that low of gearing for rubber on a small carpet track with the 13.5 motor. Being anywhere in the 5's for FDR gearing would be going in the opposite direction of what I am understanding about the 13.0 in the 13.5 from all other sources. OK Steve, you can chime in now...
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Old 08-12-2007, 10:13 PM   #21
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I think .. equals "ditto".

Oops! He deleted his original post. No problem.

yep, i decided i didn't want to go there, you guys got it,
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Old 08-12-2007, 10:44 PM   #22
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Old 08-12-2007, 11:08 PM   #23
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Where can I pick one of these up?
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Old 08-12-2007, 11:18 PM   #24
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..
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Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.

And a pair of Associated B6 buggies for turf and clay tracks.

Last edited by Still Bill; 08-12-2007 at 11:30 PM. Reason: Not going there...LOL
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Old 08-12-2007, 11:31 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Myhre View Post
Where can I pick one of these up?
Try your lhs or www.teamnovak.com
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Old 08-12-2007, 11:33 PM   #26
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Hi PookyT
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Old 08-12-2007, 11:35 PM   #27
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The material that the magnet is made from is rated up to 200 degrees C. The previous sintered rotor was rated up to 180 degrees.

The temperature on the inside of the motor (and the rotor) are oftentimes much higher than the external temperature of the motor.
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Old 08-12-2007, 11:37 PM   #28
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Howdy Bill!!!!

2 weeks ago I ran a 10.5 for the first time ever. Today I ran the 13.5 at our local track!!! These brushless babies are AWESOME!!!!!

Anybody wanna buy a good used lathe and a brush cutter!!!???

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Old 08-12-2007, 11:39 PM   #29
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I went ahead and ordered one of those from Teamnovak.com. Their shipping is really high, almost $9 to ship a little rotor. Hope they start shipping more of them soon. Can't wait to try one of these out.
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Old 08-13-2007, 08:35 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
The material that the magnet is made from is rated up to 200 degrees C. The previous sintered rotor was rated up to 180 degrees.

The temperature on the inside of the motor (and the rotor) are oftentimes much higher than the external temperature of the motor.
I know it will with stand all kinds of hot temps but whats the temp that it begins to fatigue.
Whats the best operating temp. For its optimal performance.

Just curious.?
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