Associated Factory Team TC5, Brushless, LiPo, Li-ion Nanophosphate, Tips and Tricks
10-06-2008, 10:53 PM
#616
Swampracer- this works great for weight balancing with Li-po's:
http://www.ppdbillet.com/RC_accessories.html
http://www.ppdbillet.com/RC_accessories.html
10-06-2008, 10:57 PM
#617
Get the base plate and the Adjustable universal side weight from:
http://www.ppdbillet.com/RC_accessories.html
http://www.ppdbillet.com/RC_accessories.html
10-08-2008, 08:15 AM
#618
Thanks John.
10-14-2008, 08:32 AM
#619
john do you have your setup posted somewhere?
10-14-2008, 09:11 AM
#620
Here is the rubber tire setup that I am using for high grip asphalt. It should be similar to carpet as some traction rolls were possible while I developed it. I did add the heaviest traction bars front and back after the traction roll incidents. This fixed things up great and I run them all the time now.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/3653557-post187.html
go back through the thread to look for durability tips with respect to a locked front diff which you might consider some time in the future.
Beef up a plastic rear diff with Associated Aluminum parts.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/3653557-post187.html
go back through the thread to look for durability tips with respect to a locked front diff which you might consider some time in the future.
Beef up a plastic rear diff with Associated Aluminum parts.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 04-07-2009 at 01:00 PM.
10-14-2008, 08:42 PM
#621
Tech Rookie
Where do you temp you brushless motor.. as I have major variation on the can to the end cap... the can will be 160 and the cap only 140.. I ask as when I had my Novak asked Steve Weiss and he said the end cap... so in this case I could gear up but then the can would be getting around 180...
So where do you temp your brushless motor... I have LRP Vector X11 3.0/3.5
Any help appreciated.
So where do you temp your brushless motor... I have LRP Vector X11 3.0/3.5
Any help appreciated.
10-14-2008, 09:02 PM
#622
If any part is 180F, there will start to be some slight degradation of the wires epoxy coating. Eventually they might short. I would thus say the hottest part. I find the can near the pinion end seems to be the hottest followed by the very center if the beauty ring is off. The shine of this ring interferes with a good temp reading so use the can if the ring is installed. The top of the motor where it lacks airflow will be hotter still. Temp with the body off once in a while.
Some people gear superstock motors really hot thinking hotter is faster. I find that just like brushed motors they are faster at their power peak which is well cooler than 180 F.
John
Some people gear superstock motors really hot thinking hotter is faster. I find that just like brushed motors they are faster at their power peak which is well cooler than 180 F.
John
10-16-2008, 07:48 PM
#623
I run similar setup...Stock setup just put the greens in the back.. what does moving the shocks in 1 hole do for the car? also i noticed the washer under the rear ball stud, why?
To get 2.75 rear toe which shims do i use? just wanna make sure i do it right LOL.
To get 2.75 rear toe which shims do i use? just wanna make sure i do it right LOL.
10-16-2008, 08:42 PM
#624
Ok here is the skinny on rear toe.
dowload the manual
http://aedownloads.com/downloads/manuals/tc5ft_manual.pdf
go to page 29 which is a setup sheet. At the far right in the middle there is a picture of the three toe in shims with numbers underneath. There is a 1.0, 1.5, and 2.0 degree. To get 2.5 degree stack the 1 and 1.5 shim. To get a little more add a thin shim or washer. I find that three degrees is too much.
Also get more rear traction by moving that top rear shock mount inward see below.
You will find that the early part of this thread goes through each of the common tuning elements and discusses them. If you have standard ball diffs and you move the upper front shock mounts in, then you soften the suspension. You increase grip on that end. You have more steering traction as a result.
The rear outer camber link ballstuds are vertical so that you can change the roll center. Changing the roll center has an effect similar to changing your shock position. If you raise the roll center that end of the car gets stiffer, it slides more.
Generally low roll center on low grip asphalt, raise the roll center if grip on the track comes up use medium springs, light springs if slippery. On carpet generally you run low roll centers but with stiff springs.
dowload the manual
http://aedownloads.com/downloads/manuals/tc5ft_manual.pdf
go to page 29 which is a setup sheet. At the far right in the middle there is a picture of the three toe in shims with numbers underneath. There is a 1.0, 1.5, and 2.0 degree. To get 2.5 degree stack the 1 and 1.5 shim. To get a little more add a thin shim or washer. I find that three degrees is too much.
Also get more rear traction by moving that top rear shock mount inward see below.
You will find that the early part of this thread goes through each of the common tuning elements and discusses them. If you have standard ball diffs and you move the upper front shock mounts in, then you soften the suspension. You increase grip on that end. You have more steering traction as a result.
The rear outer camber link ballstuds are vertical so that you can change the roll center. Changing the roll center has an effect similar to changing your shock position. If you raise the roll center that end of the car gets stiffer, it slides more.
Generally low roll center on low grip asphalt, raise the roll center if grip on the track comes up use medium springs, light springs if slippery. On carpet generally you run low roll centers but with stiff springs.
10-20-2008, 12:40 PM
#626
Chassis Protective Film by Rommels R/C World
I gave the film a good test. I ran three long packs on our outdoor track. The TC5 is really fast. Any bumps that are contacted are at high speed. Note in the picture the scratches at the nose. These are all scratches in the film that would have been in the graphite. Note also there is no evidence of peeling. That would be a show stopper. Nice product give it a try. Also in this view you can see the cutouts for the screws. I left these in place for those screws that did not need immediate attention. I was actually missing two screws. The material is cut accurately on a plotter and is intended to be just shy of the edge as can be seen in the photo.
John
I gave the film a good test. I ran three long packs on our outdoor track. The TC5 is really fast. Any bumps that are contacted are at high speed. Note in the picture the scratches at the nose. These are all scratches in the film that would have been in the graphite. Note also there is no evidence of peeling. That would be a show stopper. Nice product give it a try. Also in this view you can see the cutouts for the screws. I left these in place for those screws that did not need immediate attention. I was actually missing two screws. The material is cut accurately on a plotter and is intended to be just shy of the edge as can be seen in the photo.
John
Just wanted to say a good word for Rommel and his Chassis Protector. I ordered one last week, I asked if he could get it to me by Friday - he did. I applied the product per instructions, it fit perfect. I raced the car this weekend and the product worked flawless. Great guy and Great product - Highley recommended and no I do not get anything for this post - just wanted other TC5 racers to know about this in case they were interested.
10-21-2008, 02:46 PM
#627
Hi once again John,
I raced again this weekend with a new ESC (LRP AI Runner) which is probably irrelevant, but the rear end felt awfully lose. So I put some softer springs on the rear (purple to green if I remember correctly) and it felt better, yet I was still losing the rear end once or twice. When I got home I took a closer look at the car and noticed that on the left rear side I was missing the thick and thin spacers on the rod which holds the lower suspension in place. I've now replaced them, but do you think that could have been the cause of the problem? Or is there anything else I can do?
I raced again this weekend with a new ESC (LRP AI Runner) which is probably irrelevant, but the rear end felt awfully lose. So I put some softer springs on the rear (purple to green if I remember correctly) and it felt better, yet I was still losing the rear end once or twice. When I got home I took a closer look at the car and noticed that on the left rear side I was missing the thick and thin spacers on the rod which holds the lower suspension in place. I've now replaced them, but do you think that could have been the cause of the problem? Or is there anything else I can do?
10-21-2008, 04:35 PM
#628
That should do it. You were running half your intended rear toe. Now after my last post (thanks to yodace) I checked my rear spacers I was missing one thin one on the left side. This was responsible for some rear end breaking loose toward the end of my packs. I replaced it and the car was good again.
john
john
10-22-2008, 02:30 AM
#629
That should do it. You were running half your intended rear toe. Now after my last post (thanks to yodace) I checked my rear spacers I was missing one thin one on the left side. This was responsible for some rear end breaking loose toward the end of my packs. I replaced it and the car was good again.
john
john
11-05-2008, 01:36 PM
#630
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
Great thread John. I just starting rc racing a few months back and am finally ready to move up from novice to sportsman. There is a lot of good information here but I was wondering if there are some settings that are of more importance and should be the point of focus for beginners like myself?
I race outdoor asphalt and have the TC5R. I currently use the Kyle Skidmore setup sheet that was posted on the huge TC5 thread. The main things I try to look for on raceday is that all my screws are tightened, there is no binding in the suspension or pulleys, camber, and ride height.
I need to get a better understanding of all these other setup adjustments along with lots of track time. With the track being an hour away my practice time is limited so I try to have everything tightened up to go straight into practice when I get to the track. Thank you in advance for any additional advice you can provide.
I also used Rommels chassis protector. I have noticed that it chipped off a little in the front and back but I believe this is due to the fact that I could only let it dry for 20 hours instead of 48 hours and I don't think I cleaned the chassis good enough from the old chassis protector. Any suggestions on what to clean that off with?
I race outdoor asphalt and have the TC5R. I currently use the Kyle Skidmore setup sheet that was posted on the huge TC5 thread. The main things I try to look for on raceday is that all my screws are tightened, there is no binding in the suspension or pulleys, camber, and ride height.
I need to get a better understanding of all these other setup adjustments along with lots of track time. With the track being an hour away my practice time is limited so I try to have everything tightened up to go straight into practice when I get to the track. Thank you in advance for any additional advice you can provide.
I also used Rommels chassis protector. I have noticed that it chipped off a little in the front and back but I believe this is due to the fact that I could only let it dry for 20 hours instead of 48 hours and I don't think I cleaned the chassis good enough from the old chassis protector. Any suggestions on what to clean that off with?