Associated Factory Team TC5, Brushless, LiPo, Li-ion Nanophosphate, Tips and Tricks
08-24-2007, 01:49 AM
#121
Hi, This is a pic of tc5 with novak system installed wich will be ran with 5 cell.
Thanks.
ste e.
Thanks.
ste e.
08-24-2007, 09:09 AM
#123
But when I take home the trophies (both event and series) the smirks lessen.
It's called "front-loading" - if we can think about this stuff and figure out what to do before we need to do it, we'll be ready.
Sure, a good driver can do okay with a badly adjusted car - but think about how well a good driver could do with a well set up car? I went from rallycrossing a highly modified Honda Civic - did quite well but isn't suited to dirt/gravel. The minute I moved to a Doge Neon ACR, I immediately improved as that car has more shock travel, better balance, better stiffness, etc. Now, knowing what I do now (after tons of RC research and development) I was able to swap out the Koni struts (very stiff - in the garage) and move to soft stock "sacrificial" Monroes (much softer) and more appropriate springs (softer, and longer so I gain an inch of ride height - good when you're driving over rocks and gravel!
) and I'm even better. Now my little FWD Neon is running at the front of the entire pack (beating AWD Subies and Evos. . .)So what would I rather do? Under or Over analyze?
Last edited by Trips; 09-30-2008 at 11:39 PM.
08-24-2007, 09:10 AM
#124
08-24-2007, 10:18 AM
#126
Rezenclowd3-Thanks for the additional part number for the shims. I have not got the car setup completely yet. I'll give some more driving impressions after I do. Maybe this weekend.
Thanks for the support guys. Boomer thanks for the shock info. A little more support for: you can easily be too stiff on shocks if your road is not perfectly flat.
TCfree-Thanks for the pic. Neat installation job. How did your side to side balance come out with 5 cells. Probably about right. I see that you have replaced the wimpy associated rod ends. Good move. I like Losi rod ends the best. So are those FTTC4 aluminum bones. Nice. Is the front a oneway. What material is the front outdrive. Are you using pin pillows. It is hard to tell from the photo. Whose front belt are you running?
John
Thanks for the support guys. Boomer thanks for the shock info. A little more support for: you can easily be too stiff on shocks if your road is not perfectly flat.
TCfree-Thanks for the pic. Neat installation job. How did your side to side balance come out with 5 cells. Probably about right. I see that you have replaced the wimpy associated rod ends. Good move. I like Losi rod ends the best. So are those FTTC4 aluminum bones. Nice. Is the front a oneway. What material is the front outdrive. Are you using pin pillows. It is hard to tell from the photo. Whose front belt are you running?
John
Last edited by John Stranahan; 08-24-2007 at 10:30 AM.
08-24-2007, 12:29 PM
#127
11g wire by Edit
08-25-2007, 06:30 PM
#128
tcfree-I had some questions about your car in my previous post. Maybe you did not see them.
Track Test
Track temp 136F
I got in a few runs as did some of the shop help on the TC5. We did manage to break it. Some Yahoo (dam nitro guys) was zipping his car back and forth on the near straght and stopped right at the end of it in the middle of the lane not paying attention to traffic (I was not driving). The TC5 rammed it at full speed. This broke the arm (first one). We put the car back together and I tapped the boards later. This pulled the threads out of the Aluminum Barrel nut that holds on the lower front A-arm support. I suspect it was damaged in the first crash, and we did not catch it. If the arm supports have a spacer like mine do, I suggest a little bit longer screw to fully engage the Aluminum nut to avoid this problem. They had longer screws in stock at the Hobby shop.
The car still has too much steering. I am up to the purple front spring. This is probably about right.
RP 40's worked great.
I made good progress on the speed control. I went to 0 drag brake which seems to be sufficient. The car still slows fast enough if you go to neutral. Best to avoid neutral though on this layout. I increased the punch control by 3 points over default. This gave the first pull of the trigger some response out of the car. It may need to go one higher.
I played with the internal temperature sending unit on the LRP TC edtion, which unfortunately requires you to touch the setup button. On the next run the speed control was in Neverland and I got nothing out of it. I ended the session. Maybe a little more tuning tomorrow. Still slower than the Nitro cars, but gaining
I had one long run. The car stopped on the sweeper. I am not sure if it was a thermal shutdown or just the Normal LiPo Cutoff. Motor was 172F , but it was a long walk to pick it up it may have cooled some.
I gave up on my Spectrum Telemetry. I had too many unexplained shutoffs of the electrical systems on two cars. A couple caused bad crashes. One had the spectrum capacitor installed, so that does not seem to be a fix. The Telemetry works fine on a buddys Nitro car. The problem was worse on a new digital Titanium gear Servo car (not the brushless servo). I suspect the BEC circuit was not up to the Telemetry task even with the capacitor. The problem dissappeared when I unplugged all the Telemetry stuff.
My new spectrum water and fuel proof pro receiver was backordered.
John
Track Test
Track temp 136F
I got in a few runs as did some of the shop help on the TC5. We did manage to break it. Some Yahoo (dam nitro guys) was zipping his car back and forth on the near straght and stopped right at the end of it in the middle of the lane not paying attention to traffic (I was not driving). The TC5 rammed it at full speed. This broke the arm (first one). We put the car back together and I tapped the boards later. This pulled the threads out of the Aluminum Barrel nut that holds on the lower front A-arm support. I suspect it was damaged in the first crash, and we did not catch it. If the arm supports have a spacer like mine do, I suggest a little bit longer screw to fully engage the Aluminum nut to avoid this problem. They had longer screws in stock at the Hobby shop.
The car still has too much steering. I am up to the purple front spring. This is probably about right.
RP 40's worked great.
I made good progress on the speed control. I went to 0 drag brake which seems to be sufficient. The car still slows fast enough if you go to neutral. Best to avoid neutral though on this layout. I increased the punch control by 3 points over default. This gave the first pull of the trigger some response out of the car. It may need to go one higher.
I played with the internal temperature sending unit on the LRP TC edtion, which unfortunately requires you to touch the setup button. On the next run the speed control was in Neverland and I got nothing out of it. I ended the session. Maybe a little more tuning tomorrow. Still slower than the Nitro cars, but gaining
I had one long run. The car stopped on the sweeper. I am not sure if it was a thermal shutdown or just the Normal LiPo Cutoff. Motor was 172F , but it was a long walk to pick it up it may have cooled some.
I gave up on my Spectrum Telemetry. I had too many unexplained shutoffs of the electrical systems on two cars. A couple caused bad crashes. One had the spectrum capacitor installed, so that does not seem to be a fix. The Telemetry works fine on a buddys Nitro car. The problem was worse on a new digital Titanium gear Servo car (not the brushless servo). I suspect the BEC circuit was not up to the Telemetry task even with the capacitor. The problem dissappeared when I unplugged all the Telemetry stuff.
My new spectrum water and fuel proof pro receiver was backordered.
John
Last edited by John Stranahan; 08-25-2007 at 09:32 PM.
08-25-2007, 10:54 PM
#130
I investigated the car to see why it would not go. Setup was OK the motor would humm but not move. I removed the motor
The Rotor had EXPLODED into tiny pieces. That's why my car stopped on the sweeper. O well that was quite a short test. I almost had the speed control and motor tuned well. I was happy with the speed performance and Thermalling so far. I will have to run a Novak 4.5 motor instead. My last Sphere caught on fire with a Novak 3.5 so I might wait to run this untill I get the X11 back and fully tested. Gearing was 10.8 :1. It made about 4 runs.
John
The Rotor had EXPLODED into tiny pieces. That's why my car stopped on the sweeper. O well that was quite a short test. I almost had the speed control and motor tuned well. I was happy with the speed performance and Thermalling so far. I will have to run a Novak 4.5 motor instead. My last Sphere caught on fire with a Novak 3.5 so I might wait to run this untill I get the X11 back and fully tested. Gearing was 10.8 :1. It made about 4 runs.
John
Last edited by John Stranahan; 08-25-2007 at 11:07 PM.
08-26-2007, 06:37 AM
#131
I investigated the car to see why it would not go. Setup was OK the motor would humm but not move. I removed the motor
The Rotor had EXPLODED into tiny pieces. That's why my car stopped on the sweeper. O well that was quite a short test. I almost had the speed control and motor tuned well. I was happy with the speed performance and Thermalling so far. I will have to run a Novak 4.5 motor instead. My last Sphere caught on fire with a Novak 3.5 so I might wait to run this untill I get the X11 back and fully tested. Gearing was 10.8 :1. It made about 4 runs.
John
The Rotor had EXPLODED into tiny pieces. That's why my car stopped on the sweeper. O well that was quite a short test. I almost had the speed control and motor tuned well. I was happy with the speed performance and Thermalling so far. I will have to run a Novak 4.5 motor instead. My last Sphere caught on fire with a Novak 3.5 so I might wait to run this untill I get the X11 back and fully tested. Gearing was 10.8 :1. It made about 4 runs.
John
08-26-2007, 10:55 PM
#133
Thanks for the reports. I am sad to have to send this LRP 3.5 back in so soon.
Here is the Novak 4.5 R replacement. From my bench test it looks like this might be the better motor for the touring car on my track. The bottom end is stronger for that subtle throttle control you need in the corner. It has a little more top speed at the wheels geared 87/18 than the LRP 3.5. I don't know if this will be attained on the track or not. It might run a little cooler as well. I put a couple of holes in the chassis to add a little flex (a respirator is a must for this work on carbon fiber). They are shaped like the battery slots. I could not fit three of these in the space that was available. Electronics can still be mounted there. In the meantime the motor will get some cooling air. I wish that Novak would give us the little wiring loom cover with each motor they sell.
John
Here is the Novak 4.5 R replacement. From my bench test it looks like this might be the better motor for the touring car on my track. The bottom end is stronger for that subtle throttle control you need in the corner. It has a little more top speed at the wheels geared 87/18 than the LRP 3.5. I don't know if this will be attained on the track or not. It might run a little cooler as well. I put a couple of holes in the chassis to add a little flex (a respirator is a must for this work on carbon fiber). They are shaped like the battery slots. I could not fit three of these in the space that was available. Electronics can still be mounted there. In the meantime the motor will get some cooling air. I wish that Novak would give us the little wiring loom cover with each motor they sell.
John
Last edited by John Stranahan; 08-26-2007 at 11:08 PM.
08-27-2007, 04:51 AM
#135
Reading the Tire
When you run rubber tires on asphalt you can get a lot of information by looking at the tire tread after a run or even after just a few laps. If it is smooth but has little rubber marbles sprinkled over the surface it is a little too soff. If it has a torn ledge near the center where it looks like the tread has been ripped out it is too soft. Smooth with marbles was the condition of my tires today. Traction was just fair. I had RP30's on the car because it had rained and was cooler Saturday morning. I had RP 40's in the bag which I intended to run today, but forgot to install. If the tire is just right it develops tiny ripples lined up with the circumference. Traction is super. You can feel these ripples as you run your thumb across the thread. You can see them especially well just after you wet the tire with traction compound. If the tire is too hard it will scuff smooth and there will be no marbles apparent. The car will slide around too much.
In the pic you can see the ripples on the inner and outer portion of the tire. You can see a smooth scuffed section from the middle toward the outside. I had good traction so this was an OK wear pattern.
When you run rubber tires on asphalt you can get a lot of information by looking at the tire tread after a run or even after just a few laps. If it is smooth but has little rubber marbles sprinkled over the surface it is a little too soff. If it has a torn ledge near the center where it looks like the tread has been ripped out it is too soft. Smooth with marbles was the condition of my tires today. Traction was just fair. I had RP30's on the car because it had rained and was cooler Saturday morning. I had RP 40's in the bag which I intended to run today, but forgot to install. If the tire is just right it develops tiny ripples lined up with the circumference. Traction is super. You can feel these ripples as you run your thumb across the thread. You can see them especially well just after you wet the tire with traction compound. If the tire is too hard it will scuff smooth and there will be no marbles apparent. The car will slide around too much.
In the pic you can see the ripples on the inner and outer portion of the tire. You can see a smooth scuffed section from the middle toward the outside. I had good traction so this was an OK wear pattern.
hi john... in the picture that was posted, would you recommend less camber to get the ripples more "centered"?
also, does the wear pattern indicate that after an "initial" grip, the tires slid a bit, thereby producing the smooth section and then "griped" again after chassis rolled to its lowest point?