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Old 05-02-2009, 10:39 AM   #676
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John,
Very interested on balancing my TC5R.
How do you balance the car?
Do you put electronics in their spots and then add weights?
Do you have the shocks preloaded first or set the collar all the way up so all are even?
I have had discussions about this with a buddy of mine on what is the best way to set up the balance of a touring car.

My thought is to put electronics in their place, rubber tires on, shocks collars all the way up and then put it on the scale and try to get the weight added to balance out.
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Old 05-02-2009, 02:20 PM   #677
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Read post #31 to #58. Skip the posts not pertaining to balance.
I go through details of balancing the car. At first just mount everything temporarily. Even the electronics can be moved around to get a proper balance. The battery can be moved inward or outward. If you are adding ballast then moving it around and proportioning it to a couple of pieces will help with balance. If you use my method with weighing on beams to start with the shock collar position will not play a role until the very final balance on corner weight scales. Start this last part with shock collars even left and right but at the correct ride height front and back.
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Old 05-02-2009, 08:51 PM   #678
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hey everyone,
I'm looking to build my first touring car... I want to build a TC5R.. i want to run in the 13.5 rubber class... i need the car and everything, can someone shed some light on what motor/esc brands to look for when building the car.. or if anyone has a tc5R for sell please pm me...

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Old 05-03-2009, 08:35 AM   #679
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Get a GTB. Prices are good now. Novak or LRP 13.5 (sensored).
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Old 05-03-2009, 01:43 PM   #680
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Belt Tension
A couple of guys have asked how tight to make the belts. I found on first assembly that the numbers in the manual are not helpful. Nor is it helpful to tell you my numbers on a 6 month old belt. The belts sretch a bit. Different manufacturing runs of the belt are slightly different. I am sure this is why the manual setting did not work.

Here is a method that I used just so I can report what tension I use on the front belt. I pulled up with one pound force in the middle of the belt using a fish scale. The belt pulls up to 5/8 inch over the top plate. Note that not all of this is flex as the belt runs above the top plate by 3/16 or so. This tension is suitable for open mod. You can have a little more flex for stock motors. Maybe an 1/8 inch more.

The rear belt flexes up to about .5 inch from its resting state of .2 inch. I set this belt looser than the front as it is only partially loaded with a locked diff.

You can turn the car upside down and hang a weight from it just as easily as using the fish scale.
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Associated Factory Team TC5, Brushless, LiPo, Li-ion Nanophosphate, Tips and Tricks-belt-tension.jpg  
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Old 05-04-2009, 03:19 PM   #681
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Racing Nears
I had a 15 minute run on a slippery track Friday. One lesson learned is that my new SMC 6000 mA-h batteries will need a fence to keep from moving into the belt in a crash. This happened Friday and rubbed quite a hole not all the way through the case in a very short time. These tiny items are CRC parts. The inner one has the same hole spacing as the holes in the TC5 chassis. If you run your battery out, it may work as is. I run the battery farther in for balancing purposes and drilled and countersunk two new holes farther inboard. I put an outside fence on as well. The rearmost hole here is in narrow graphite so I only drilled and countersunk for a tiny 2 x 56 screw. I sanded the part to fit.

http://teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?name=Shopping_Cart&file=product&c_op=v iewprod&prodID=7718905

or without sanding the part.

http://teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?name=Shopping_Cart&file=product&c_op=v iewprod&prodID=1273

So for 5 or 10 bucks you can have a more secure battery location.

Note there are links to Diggety design parts just above that will do the same job with fewer mods by the user.

http://www.diggitydesigns.com/D3_TC5...eExtended.html.


In the second pic note a third front body post ala JRXS. This is actually a JRXS rear body post with the bottom cut off. I drilled the tiny balancing hole in the center of the shock tower out to .114 to mount this post which is drilled on the side. It will prevent cracks to the fender arches.

At the rear arch, this layer of fiberglass tape, that is glued on with flexible fabric glue, will prevent cracking of the rear arch from wing force and crashes.


I carefully tailored a 40 mm chord wing to be taller than it is long, to come up to the roof cab height with the car on a 3/4 inch plywood block (20 mm blocks). I put on a Gurney strip about 1/8 inch wide in the upper part of the wing to increase its effectiveness and to bring it up the last 2 mm. It is just a little bend at about 45 degrees of the aft edge of the wing.
Attached Thumbnails
Associated Factory Team TC5, Brushless, LiPo, Li-ion Nanophosphate, Tips and Tricks-battery-fences-001.jpg   Associated Factory Team TC5, Brushless, LiPo, Li-ion Nanophosphate, Tips and Tricks-body-post-3rd-front.jpg   Associated Factory Team TC5, Brushless, LiPo, Li-ion Nanophosphate, Tips and Tricks-rear-wing-support.jpg   Associated Factory Team TC5, Brushless, LiPo, Li-ion Nanophosphate, Tips and Tricks-roar-tc-rules001.jpg  
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Last edited by John Stranahan; 05-05-2009 at 04:36 PM.
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Old 05-09-2009, 12:51 AM   #682
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Any particular reason why you went away from having the ESC/receiver on the battery side and went back to a more traditional ESC/receiver on the left?
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Old 05-09-2009, 08:47 AM   #683
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My LiPo packs have are of greater capacity and are hard case now so they are heavier. In addition I am ballasted up to ROAR rules of 53 oz, 1500 g. These are the reasons for the change. I had the car at 44 ounces at one time and moved electronics to balance the car side to side.
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Old 05-11-2009, 06:01 AM   #684
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John,
I am new to this thread but have read most of it. Well done and keep up the good work.
I own a tc5 and have done for quite some time, I have always had some trouble with set up on this car.
With that said I have some hope that you may be able to help.
I run on a out door track that is very large and quite low grip, I have tried your set up recently letter for letter but found my car to understeer very badly. can you sugest something to help?
I am wanting to go in state titles this year in a few months time but the car is around .4 of a sec per lap of the mark.
Most of that is due to in ability to power hard aroud sweepers with out massive understeer.
Any sugestions would be much appreciated.
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Old 05-11-2009, 06:08 AM   #685
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John,
I should also add I am running mod 4.0 turn lrp so as far as power goes the car is ok,
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Old 05-11-2009, 09:12 AM   #686
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I assume then you are running with a locked front diff.

I find in this condition that the car is most sensitive to rear toe-in. Try a little less rear toe-in to loosen that back end up. I use 2.75 degree. The extra .25 degree is added with a thin washer. Remove a thin washers worth of shim from between the frame and inner rear suspension arm supports.

I find with a locked front diff that adjustments to spring tension for cornering on power, like you state, needs to be done opposite of normal with two ball diffs. Adjust top of front shocks out slightly(stiffer) or top or rear shock in slightly to gain more steering traction. The effect of this is to load the outside front wheel more and gain steering from the locked diff driving the outside front wheel hard; you are adding torque steer in effect.
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Old 05-12-2009, 06:12 AM   #687
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john,
Thanks for your quick reply and yes i am running spool in the front.
I will try those changes on my car next time out testing.
currently i have been running 3 deg toe on the rear sounds like may be part of the problem.
I was unsure if the car just had no more to give as i am chasing a much newer xray 009.
Hopefully ironing out the understeer will give me that little extra.
Thanks again for the help. I am one of the only guys at my 2 local clubs that run a tc 5 it would be nice to put an older car up the front.
I have also noticed slight scuffing on the front bumper where it joins to the bottom plate I am thinking I may need to jump from blue spring to red up front as it appears the car may be just touching under hard brake for hairpins. ride height is now at 5.5mm and i think much more and the car becomes a little unstable.
The tyres that i am currently using are take cs 32s new to old the car behaves pretty much the same
so consistency is there. they are a little soft car can get squirmy at 4min mark if overdriven
What tyres do you use for club events?

Last edited by brt006; 05-12-2009 at 06:25 AM.
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Old 05-12-2009, 09:21 AM   #688
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I tried 3 degrees of rear toe and indeed it was too much. I use takeoff CS 32's, but they are still the old one. They do get tackier late in the run and I get some oversteer. Good luck.
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Old 05-14-2009, 10:50 PM   #689
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John I am jumping on a TC5R and got a hook up for a brand new one real cheap. Now I did start looking at the first post on this thread and it goes way back to 2007. Since I am starting out with the new rubber TC5R wondering after I build the kit as recommended from the manual if you have any other tips to hop up some parts, tires, toe, camber, caster and droop? Yes a bit lazy to go through 40 something post so if you have a post I can go back to or new setup would be great.

Will be running once a month on that large track I run my Gen X 10 and the rest of the month at parking lot type track and one indoor asphalt small track.
All tracks will have some sort of traction from dht to soda pop.


Thanks in advance as always
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Old 05-15-2009, 01:34 AM   #690
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Miguel-Here is link to a recent post that has links to my current setup, which I still like, and also mods that I have done to the car.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/5652797-post638.html
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