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Old 04-10-2009, 06:32 AM   #646
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wyd-welcome to the thread.
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Old 04-10-2009, 07:36 AM   #647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Stranahan View Post
wyd-welcome to the thread.
Thanks. I will be reading over the pages and catch up on a few things. I had an original TC5 when they first came out so I'm fairly familiar with it. The only thing that kinda confused me a little is the height of the diff cams. They are all very similiar and I had to watch what I did as I could put them in wrong very easily. Everything else was pretty norm.
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Old 04-10-2009, 02:54 PM   #648
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Quick question John, you mentioned using Loctite paste under the heads of the topdeck screws to eliminate tweak in double deck cars. How well does the loctite bind the screws to the topdeck? When you remove the screws after does this crack the bond and they come out as normal?
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Old 04-10-2009, 05:07 PM   #649
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yes. The bond is good; they don't back out by themselves. The screws are easy to remove. Even the Aluminum ones will tolerate this treatment. I have never had a break just doing the heads. I have done this to many cars. Don't loctite the threads on aluminum to aluminum fastening. The screws will sometimes break.
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Old 04-10-2009, 08:44 PM   #650
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Track Test TC5 with LRP X12, Track Temp 98 F

I had good session with the TC5. Every time I run the car people remark about the outstanding acceleration. Wicked Fast. What was new today? I had installed an LRP X12. This motor has moved a little closer to the Novak 3.5. The old Kv was 9000, the new X12 Kv is 9500. The Novak 3.5 is 10500 Kv. Kv are RPM/volt. They are how many RPM the motor runs at idle for each volt. In my case you would multiply by about 7.4 volts to find the free running RPM. Don't run it free though or the rotor might explode.

Gearing the LRP X12
The new 3.5 makes 5 % fewer revs than the old one. I lowered the gear by 5%

90/22 was the old gear = 4.09

4.09 x 1.05 = 4.29 (this gear ratio has to have a bigger number than the old)

90/4.29 = the new pinion = 21

I put on a Nickel plated Robinson Racing pinion in 48 pitch to give me good lifetime outdoors and freedom to brake hard if I like.

On the track
The car had outstanding acceleration even though traction was only medium. I rolled on throttle quite quickly. I noticed slightly less punch out of the corner than the old motor, very good speed on the straight. The car setup is still dialed. I had no trouble.

I temped the motor. This motor is vented unlike the old LRP. That's a plus in my book. If you look through one of the rear ports you can actually see the wire in the winding. I temped first down one of these holes. Down into the bowels of the cauldron so to speak. It was 209 F after a little more than 5 minutes of running. Ouch. Other parts of the motor, the ones we typically only have access to, were in the 180 range. I have always though the motor could withstand 210 F as that is what our brushed stock motors were run with good life. Novak says 160 F or so measuring on the can.

I need to gear down one tooth. My old gearing was a little tall on purpose to keep the rotor from exploding. There was a very fine line between too short gears and, explode the rotor, and too tall, and, fry the motor. 22/90 seemed to fit. I could tell from track manners that it was a bit too tall.

Next time with a 20 tooth pinion, I should see some of the corner exit punch return to the TC5 with X12 motor.

Current Electronics Layout
Here is a pic of my current layout of my TC5. Things to note. I have modified the top strap for extra flex. This has worked great. In addition it has almost no ability to tweak the chassis now. I am using FMA direct Revolution soft LiPos. These are the best that I have ever purchased. I have over 60 very hard cycles on them and they still have wondrous punch. I slide them over to the edge of the chassis to obtain good weight balance. I protect the outer edge with one or two layers of .030 LEXAN with a 90 degree fold. There is a TIR front spool installed. That’s a super device and relieved the car of a lot of headache and wear with those stinking little pin pillows. I added sway bars when during a big Nitro race warm-up; the car started traction rolling. This cured the problem and they have stayed ever since. The battery is extra long and required this blue graphite top strap from the TC3 which could hold 7 cells. I redrilled the strap and mounted the strap supports backwards to gain just enough clearance. The standard size hard case LiPos don't require this much effort but are not near as fast either. The new SMC packs have very good numbers new, but the lifetime is always a question until you test them. A spektrum Micro Receiver is on top of the Futaba servo. I drilled a new hole in the top strap for a homemade antenna holder and short antenna. That Futaba brushless servo described earlier in the thread has been just super.

pic - you can see the front vents in the motor can.
Attached Thumbnails
Associated Factory Team TC5, Brushless, LiPo, Li-ion Nanophosphate, Tips and Tricks-tc5-lrp-x12-3.5-resized-004.jpg  
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Last edited by John Stranahan; 04-10-2009 at 10:15 PM.
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Old 04-11-2009, 04:37 PM   #651
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Track test TC5 with LRP X12 3.5
Medium traction 108 F


I geared down one 48 pitch tooth. Motor temp after a 5 minute run was 175 F on the hottest part of the can on the bottom of the car. That should be good until it gets hot. Then I will drop another pinion tooth.

Rip out of the corner is slightly reduced over the old 3.5. The old 3.5 had more punch; that is why I chose it instead of the Novak 3.5. This new X12 more than made up for it in the middle of the short straights, though. With the new gear acceleration peaked there. This will make the stress on the drive line and electronics a little less. Full throttle is achieved very quickly on the straight. There is one very narrow smooth line. The car was fast. On the other parts of the straight it danced around a bit, but some of the bumps were like speed humps to a full size car. New asphalt is coming in two weeks. Final overall gear ratio 10.71

John
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Old 04-11-2009, 04:59 PM   #652
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Thanks for the information Sir, top thread as usual from yourself
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Old 04-11-2009, 07:19 PM   #653
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John, have you had any experience with the Diggity Designs products for the TC5 like there caster blocks, or lipo trays? If so, what did you think of them? Thanks
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Old 04-11-2009, 08:02 PM   #654
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Conrad-Thanks
Mark- Here is a product I like over at Diggity designs. It lets you offset you pack to balance the weight for those tracks or people that don't need to ballast up. If I had a more standard size battery I could use one of these and possibly eliminate my tape. Unfortunately my batteries are over the normal length. I don't think they are available any more either. FMA added even more length to the pack of this size. (to keep me from using it in a car I guess)

http://www.diggitydesigns.com/D3_TC5...eExtended.html

I like the brutally strong but flexible original pieces on the TC5. If you need more stifness, say on carpet, then aluminum caster blocks may help as part of a stiff arm setup. I personally don't like having aluminum crash parts as they tend to bend and stay bent without you knowing it.
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Last edited by John Stranahan; 04-11-2009 at 09:22 PM.
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Old 04-14-2009, 12:36 PM   #655
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what are some after market belts that can be used on the TC5?

whats a good rear belt setting for asphalt? Right now it is set to kit< i upgraded to the .lower holders for the spur gear bearings. evotech i believe... forgot what they are called....

Last edited by yodace; 04-19-2009 at 06:46 PM.
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Old 04-19-2009, 06:47 PM   #656
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any ideas
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Old 04-19-2009, 06:56 PM   #657
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My stock belts lasted almost a year under very heavy 3.5 use. For mod I don't see a substitute would be better.

The Losi XXXS experimented with slightly more slick but also more stretchy silicone belts in the beginning. They were not faster. Guys ended cutting off every other tooth to get more belt flexibility for stock motors. Of course with mod the standard belt was fine. This was probably the best driveline for mod motors outdoors that I have used. It is a shame associated and Losi quit developing the plastic tub chassis at that point in time.
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Old 04-21-2009, 09:24 AM   #658
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what do u have the tension set to for both the front and rear belt? I upgrade to the evotech bearing holders and it seems as if the belt tension loosed up ???
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Old 04-21-2009, 09:59 AM   #659
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The tension setting changes with diff height. I leave the belt so it has about 1/8 to 1/4 inch of fairly easy movement by hand in the middle of its travel. The front belt on a locked diff equiped car is fairly critical as any slippage with a powerful mod motor will destroy the pulleys. I can push the front belt down to the top deck, but at rest there is some tension on it. No play. With stock motors you can go looser to reduce friction.
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Old 04-22-2009, 08:34 AM   #660
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Default Spool Assembly

While in the process of changing my front diff to a spool, I managed to strip out the nock nut. All I did was remove the thrust balls, added the spool pads, but the nut must have been crooked in the black holder. I had a brand new rebuild kit, so I used the new lock nut and thrust screw. Same thing happened again. The lock nut appears to be very low quality. The thrust screw starts to thread, but will not get enough bite to tighten all the way down, it starts slipping. Does anyone know of an alternative for these 2 parts. It would seem that minus the thrust balls, there should be plenty of length on the thrust screw so that the spring should no longer be a problem.
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