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Old 11-05-2008, 02:57 PM   #631
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Layin Wood
Thanks.

I cleaned the chassis with Alcohol to get any wax or oil off. I then used generic windex with Ammonia D to spray on under the decal so it would let me slide it around for alignment. It may have been two days before I got it to the track. I got no peeling or chipping. It will wear off if your chassis drags the ground.

Setup
The thread actually goes into setup in the order that I attack a new car with.

Get the weight even left and right. You can do this by picking each end up with the X-acto, using balance points, or using scales.

Get the spring rate right front and back. Stiffer for high traction and carpet, softer for low traction.

Get the oversteer/understeer balance right. This is the most critical to being able to drive the car. With ball diffs front and back, Stiffen the front to make the car push. Oversteer (spinning out) is to be avoided at all cost by a beginner. It makes the car real hard to drive fast. You stiffen the front by moving upper shock pivot out, increasing front spring tension with a stiffer spring, moving roll center up, Increasing rear toe up to but not beyond about 2.75 degrees per side.

If you lack steering you do just the opposite.

(If you have a locked front diff, this is all backwards except the rear toe in.)

I generally end up using the same spring front and back on my touring cars. It may come with a stiffer front spring that favors beginners by letting the car push a little bit.

Tire choice is very important but tends to be specific to your track, so see what is being used there.

I will be glad to answer specific questions as they come up.
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Old 11-05-2008, 07:08 PM   #632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Layin' Wood View Post
I also used Rommels chassis protector. I have noticed that it chipped off a little in the front and back but I believe this is due to the fact that I could only let it dry for 20 hours instead of 48 hours and I don't think I cleaned the chassis good enough from the old chassis protector. Any suggestions on what to clean that off with?
It is very important for chassis to be thoroughly clean and give ample curing time. Apply the second chassis protector you received and I'm sending another replacement one out to you tomorrow no-charge, so you will still have a back-up one Follow John's tips and if any questions please post on my thread or send me a pm and I will be happy to help.

Last edited by Rommel; 11-05-2008 at 10:43 PM.
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Old 11-06-2008, 12:33 PM   #633
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Thank you both very much for the help! It's been quite the learning curve since I started but I'm finally starting to get my head around these concepts. It's a lot of fun though.

Thank you again Rommel, I still owe you an eBay rating and I will do that soon. My ff broke my laptop and my work firewalls Eba so I gotta get my backup PC working at home. Once I get that going I will get you that rating.

Thanks again to both of you, you have been very informative.
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Old 11-19-2008, 08:11 PM   #634
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I got my roll center numbers from a spreadsheet that I wrote to calculate roll centers. It gives numeric output as well as graphical output. It is written in Microsoft Excel which you would need to use it. A free download is available here. This particular sheet has my TC5 numbers for a roll center at ground level and 6.5 mm ride height. I am using the top holes in the Aluminum bulkheads. The long suspension support *. The camber link position you can see on the photographs.


Do you have this spreadsheet available to email to me? It looks as though Hometown has closed down. If you do, here is my email address:
[email protected]

Thanks,
BBG
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Old 11-19-2008, 08:59 PM   #635
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Yes I do. Those dirty dogs made a bunch of my links dead. send e-mail to [email protected]
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Old 12-22-2008, 02:38 PM   #636
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Found a copy of the calculator on my PC, so I've attached it here to help.

Cheers
Ed
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File Type: zip TC5 RollCenterCalculator.zip (161.9 KB, 118 views)
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Old 02-19-2009, 08:14 PM   #637
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bump
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Old 04-07-2009, 12:00 PM   #638
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New Racing for the TC5
Well its time to dredge this thread back up. If you are new to it, there are complete setup details explaining the important tuning aids on the TC5. I go through my history with the car. This includes, balancing by moving the electronics and using scales, setting tweak with a tweak station or X-acto knife point, spring rate, roll stiffness, sway bars etc. I am so happy that we are still dealing with a TC5 and not a TC7 already. Previously I raced with the 1/10th Nitros and did very well indeed.

Renovations at Mikes-HobbyShop.com
I run at Mikes-HobbyShop.com. We are in the middle of a rennovation for the 1/10 Nitro Sedan Worlds. This will include new asphalt and Painted low concrete curbs to mark the corners. The straight will be increased from the current 160 ft to 240 ft to meet the Worlds rulebook.

I have gathered a sizable group of electric racers, 12 World GT, and 8 touring cars to club race on the new asphalt. Traction should be outstanding. The infield will be more challenging than the previous layout to meet runline specs.

Class
The touring car class will be rubber tire 2s LiPo open mod as other drivetrains are just not satifactory on a big track like this. (we will run outlaw weight). There is little good done by adding lead to a touring car.

Motor
One problem that I had with the old X11 motors is rotor explosion on any of two of the current long straights. This was to be solved by the new chrome tuning rotor. I ordered one 12.5 mm tuning rotor as this is probably the same diameter as the stock X11. Power and Kv should be the same at 9500 RPM/Volt. I also ordered a new X12 in a 3.5 wind. The main difference over the old motor performance wise is that the new rotor also comes in a 12.0 mm size. This boosts RPM to a Kv of 10,000RPM/Volt. I really like the old motors punch in the TC5. I prefered it over a Novak 3.5 R with a Kv rating of 10500RPM/Volt. The new X12 is, then, just in the middle between the old LRP and the Novak. I prefer the Novak in my Wide Pan car.

The TC5 has proved to be a very durable car. The only upgrade really needed is a TIR spool. This spool uses two Nylon outdrives protected by aluminum tubes to cushion the vibration from the misnamed non "constant velocity" drives. I had the best luck getting the right TIR parts from this retailer in Hong Kong

http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/index.php...as3usight5bvp4

Here is a retailer in Australia. What you need is the spool. About 3 pair of Nylon oudrives and maybe 1 extra pair of Aluminum sleeves in case one is lost in a severe crash. The store in Australia shows the model that I have, and like a lot. It has black outdrives. The TIR store shows an older model with white, but I could not find the oudrives listed separately on that store.

http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/index.php...id=130&&page=4


Another popular mod is to glue up the two pulleys on the center shaft to prevent a rocking situation that can be felt as a pause when you first accelerate.

Center Shaft mod

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ml#post3955030

Here is my current TC5 setup for a ball diff front followed by the car setup for a locked diff front.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/3653557-post187.html

More news to come in about a week.
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Last edited by John Stranahan; 04-09-2009 at 02:46 AM.
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Old 04-09-2009, 02:32 AM   #639
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Well I guess I will subscribe to this thread as well. Will be reading your stuff on the tc5 and will consider picking one up at the end of the year. Damm dude, you been around a long time. Just done a search on tc5 and got an old thread of yours on the tc3. Thanks for helping us all on this forum.


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Old 04-09-2009, 07:52 AM   #640
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yeah ima pick up a tc5R soon, just realized Johns on this thread also.
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Old 04-09-2009, 11:26 AM   #641
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Miguel-Well youngster, I have been around a long time. Note above I was extremely happy not to be talking about a TC7 already.

Welcome to the thread guys.
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Old 04-09-2009, 04:55 PM   #642
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OK punks My X12 has arrived. You'll have no stinkin chance. You know who I'm talking too.
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Old 04-09-2009, 07:47 PM   #643
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Default TC5R Shock problem

Maybe someone here can give me some advice. I have a TC5R. I was having a problem with one of the shocks, I don't know what the part is called, but it is the larger black piece that holds the black plastic washer and the "o" ring in. It would not lock into the bottom of the shock body, so when I ran it, it would get loose and allow the "o" ring to come loose and allow all the oil to leak out. I had an upgrade kit for the F/T TC4 shocks, part # 31123. The larger black piece has a different shape, but I tried it and it seems to be a tight enough fit to secure the "o" ring. My question is, are they interchangeable? Is the shock body the same? If they are should I change all 4. Or, should I get a rebuild kit with the current large black piece # 31120?
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Old 04-09-2009, 09:17 PM   #644
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Svines 11972-The large palstic piece is a seal retainer. From a look at the shock blowup in the TC5 manual it looks like this seal retainer works by friction alone. It kind of wedges itself into place. Things that could intefere with this wedging action include

Damage to the seal retainer during installation. It should go into place by pulling on the shock shaft. You should feel some friction as it starts wedging itself in. Possibly at the start of the bore. Try a different seal retainer in that one problem shock to rule it out.

If this one shock tube is worn ovesize it will need a replacement. A clue will be bright aluminum colored inside different from outside.

Get back to us.
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Old 04-10-2009, 02:08 AM   #645
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Well I will be running the TC5R this year after being out of touring cars for about 1 1/2 years. I got a great deal on one and it is easy for my shop to get parts for it. Look forward to running touring cars again.
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