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Old 01-16-2008, 12:45 PM   #511
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Good luck with your LRP.

CellPro Revolution Battery install.

I'll say again this is one of the best LiPo batterries that I have used. Great voltage, slow deterioration rate at 5 amp charge rate. No troubles over about 35 cycles now. So the question is how to stuff this oversize battery in the TC5. It fits just between the aluminum bulkheads on the right side but the battery strap needs to be changed. I obtained two of these blue TC3 battery straps for the 7 cell tray of the TC3. I drilled two small (.116 inch) holes near the exhisting holes in the ends. Take care not to inhale graphite dust. I took the standard battery uprights and made them more flat on the bottom and turned them 90 degrees. This provides the space and puts a larger flat area against the battery for protection.

For weight balance, the battery is all the way to the right edge of the chassis. For Protection, I put on a LEXAN 90 cut from the bottom of one of my bodies. It goes to the bottom of the chassis in the middle portion of the battery, to the top of the chassis at the tape. Use an 1/8 scale LEXAN scrap for better thickness here.

I am getting by quite well with only two of these batteries when running only one car. I bought two of these battery straps. One for each battery for convenience in charging and reinstalling them into the car. No need to change the tape then.

I also modified my custom 1/10 scale pan with a short servo so these batteries would fit. They are a keeper.

These batteries can also be taped in the TC5 using the existing tape slots and strapping tape. This is the lightest method. I suggest two layers of tape. One layer of IRS tape was insufficient.

The Tamiya wheel hexes did not fit. They are sized for a shaft .020 inch bigger than the TC5 drive axle. This means they would require shimming. In addition the center hole is not though bored. It has a shoulder outboard that interfered with the hex seating on the drive pin. The Tamiya drive pins are a larger diameter than the TC5s. My blue hexes came in at 4 mm thick. I am back to the shimmed Losi hexes.

John
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Last edited by John Stranahan; 01-16-2008 at 09:34 PM.
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Old 01-17-2008, 06:19 PM   #512
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LRP X11 Rotor Explosion
Well I have a race Sunday and two of my X11 3.5's are in Warantee service. They may come back at any time. I wanted to run one Sunday, so I purchased a third. It blew up on the 10 th lap. Here is a pic. The LRP (TC edition, this is important) speed Controls are great so far 2 good ones no troubles. The LRP's X11 Pro comp motors blow rotors but are fast. I got 50 runs out of one and less than 1 run out of two.

LRP Novak Hybrid
the thought occured to me to try and repair this LRP X11 motor with a Novak Sintered Chrome Plated rotor. I had two on hand. so here is the progress. You put a Novak rear bearing in the LRP can at the rear and its a go. I put in both the big tuning rotor and the standard size rotor. I could get them shimmed into smooth movement. You might need a small dimple in the plastic at the end of the Novak non pinion side shaft if there is insufficient end play. Now the motor would not run well which is a puzzle. It may be damaged from the rotor explosion or there may be a sensor to magnet spacing problem. It will take a second test to know with a known good LRP motor. If you have one of each motor and are bored one day give this a test. In my mind it should work. The LRP should not be able to tell what brand of rotor is inside as long as it rotates smoothly. The good combo in the touring car may be the LRP 3.5 can with the large Novak tuning rotor. I have had no Novak Rotor explosions although a couple of guys reported that they did.

See final test below. It did not work out.

Novak 3.5 with tuning Rotor vs LRP Pro Comp 3.5
I put enough laps on these two motors today to differentiate them. The tuning rotor made the Novak more like the LRP 3.5. Punch out of the corner was increased with the tuning rotor. Top speed was slightly reduced. The difference in the two motors is slight now with the Novak having slightly more top speed and the LRP a little more punch out of the corners. I geared both exactly the same at 9.66. This was maybe a slight amount tall for the Novak but suited the LRP OK.

John
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Last edited by John Stranahan; 02-05-2008 at 10:39 PM.
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Old 01-18-2008, 06:18 PM   #513
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New hard suspension components now available from AE. If you are on a high bite track or carpet you might want to try these.
John
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Old 01-18-2008, 07:44 PM   #514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Stranahan View Post
New hard suspension components now available from AE. If you are on a high bite track or carpet you might want to try these.
John
I am going to try it with ruber tires on the rug. I like my car to be more responsive and in talking with Bob this should make the car react that way. So needless to say I can't wait for the parts to become available.
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Old 01-18-2008, 10:24 PM   #515
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Kraig-give us a report when you get them.

Kimbrough Ultra Mesh Graphite Pinions
I also got in one of these Kimbrough Ultramesh pinions. It is a carbon fiber material which requires an aluminum set screw ring. I have a similar weight gear from Robinson Racing in hardcoated aluminum. I'll give them each a wear test.
The motor shaft has the highest RPM in the touring car. This means that mass removed from the pinion has the greatest effect on the rotating inertia of the car, more so than the center shaft which is next followed by wheels and axles last.
The photo shows 3 Robinson Racing Pinions upper which are hard coated aluminum on the left . Titanium Nitride coated (only from Stormer) on the top and Nickel plated on the right. The titanium nitride coated pinion will out last the nickel pinion in the smallest size (12 tooth) by a huge factor of 10 times longer. At about 14 teeth wear is reduced and any of these pinions may work for you. I plan to test the grapite pinion which would be the lightest followed by the aluminum pinion both in 17 tooth.


So why the hard plastic arms-The flexure.

The flexure suspension has come in and out of vogue in formula one. It is in on a few of the manufacturers designs in the front now. The advantage here is that as formula one cars have increased in downforce, the stiction (friction) forces in the inner A-arm pivots and outer ball joints have gone up accordingly. Instead of pivots a flexible carbon fiber blade is used with no ball joints in conjuction with an adjustable spring on the inboard coil over shock to support the load. This eliminates a lot of the stiction, as the ball joints are absent. This promotes traction.

So flex without stiction in the chassis and arms promotes traction. A very stiff chassis and more solid arms (very low flex) promotes smooth sliding and gives more instant response.

John
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Last edited by John Stranahan; 01-18-2008 at 10:49 PM.
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Old 01-19-2008, 10:11 PM   #516
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Default Shock rebound

John: I have a question a bout shock rebound...I've been reading in the new Xray T2'008 manual, and they recommend the following:

low traction asphalt......set shock rebound to 75%
med traction................set shock rebound to 50%
high traction................set shock rebound to 25%

What can you share about how shock rebound settings can effect the cars handling on different traction levels and surfaces based on the racing books you've learned from and your experience ...
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Old 01-19-2008, 11:21 PM   #517
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yyhayim

From the fullsize race car books generally you would use less bump damping than rebound. There was no mention of level of traction.

There was discussion of less overall damping for a rough track. My test data on a fullsize car bears this out.

Now here is what I do. I always start with 50-50 damping on the RC car and first adjust spring and spring position followed by adjusting traction with shock oil weight.

Then I watch the car and see if it is leaving the ground or is near to catching air under the tires over the bumps. If it is I reduce bump damping, but add slightly more (5 weight) shock oil weight to keep roll stiffness the same. I don't have access to % change but I imagine it is in the 20%-25% range from feeling the shock compress and extend. If the car is leaving the ground I reduce bump shock action. This would mean about 25% bump shock action, 100% rebound.

I think that it is odd that you would change this bump rebound ratio as traction on the track changes. If I would, I would do it opposite of the way X-ray suggest. Firstly, I would use stiffer shock oil on the second day of a big race for example as bite comes up. This gives more bump and rebound. This would cause the car to start leaving the ground again on the worst bump, so I would take away some more bump shock action and leave rebound alone. (I would add a bigger bevel on top of my piston). The rebound would also be higher from the higher shock oil weight on the second day which has high traction.

I am not familiar with the T2 adjustment so I don't know if setting rebound to a lower number changes the bump adjustment to a higher number. With my bevel it only changes bump and not rebound.
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Old 01-20-2008, 03:48 PM   #518
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Race Report
Track Temp 55 F to start warming to 65F
I had my best qualifying ever with the TC5. We had 8 1/8 scale open mod cars (2 were faster than I) and 11 1/10 Nitro sedans (again only two were faster. This was after the second heat. On the third heat I lost a wheel and had one additional driver out qualify me. I check the front wheel nuts every run now. Apparently I forgot to check the back. I swapped from RP 30 to CS32 with good effect at about 65 F. for the second heat.
I was running the GTB 3.5 with the fat tuner rotor. Although the Novak Velocity 3.5 feels about as fast as the X11 LRP, I see that it is a few tenths slower on our longish layout after looking at todays laptimes. We did have sugar which did not help me much with the rubber tires. I have good traction on our surface without sugar using rubber tires.
Ill try the foams at least one heat next race.
John

Pinion Report
Saturday I ran the graphite composite 17 tooth pinion from Kimbrough. It was very quiet but did not feel faster like a lightened pinion will some times. 2/3 into the heat it loosened on the shaft. I think the 3.5 just has too much load on it. It might be better in stock or 19 turn where it is not pushing so hard into the spur. On the second pack I lost a bearing on the right side of the center shaft The pinion gear immediately was stripped of all teeth and is nice and round now. Short test. I put on the Robinson Racing Aluminum pinion which felt very good in the car. I'll see if it holds up outdoors.

John

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Old 01-20-2008, 08:20 PM   #519
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Hi Guys,

Just wonder if anyone have tried the optional ITF chassis and upper deck, any significant difference compare to the stock chassis?

Thanks!
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Old 01-23-2008, 02:16 PM   #520
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Pole Position-Since we did not get a response I thought I would give you my thoughts. If you take the stock car and remove the top plate you add a huge amount of flex. The car is more flexible (top plate removed) than any I have handled except for maybe the molded HPI chassis of a while back. Certainly more flex than you need. For this reason I suggest you keep the thick chassis and just get a ITF top plate to tinker with. If you need more flex cut it up a little more. My experience on asphalt with the stock (flexible) arms, caster blocks, hubs, and bearing uprights is that you can develop enough traction to traction roll the car. I do have some added holes to my chassis and a cut down top plate, but the car still feels stiff in the hands. I suggest go easy on reducing chassis stiffness until you are on the more solid graphite arms and uprights.

Here is a pic of my new DNA body with my traditional paint theme. I have used the same J Concepts rear wing as with my Stratus body to do a better comparison. The DNA 2 wing is quite a bit smaller. The extra two holes in the hood are shock tower supported body posts. I added a bumper and forward body posts back on as I had a crash that crushed the headlight area in and required a pit stop to pop back out.
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Old 01-23-2008, 06:22 PM   #521
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John,

Thanks for the input. Chances are I will also get the new harden hubs but work in combination with stock arms later.

Appreciated.
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Old 01-27-2008, 04:13 PM   #522
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I got 4 good runs in on the DNA2 body. Compared to the last form of my Stratus body. It looked like I had a little more top speed. The likely reason is the bulge on the back end. The bodies nose was better planted over the bumps. I was not lifting the front wheels as much. This may be a function of the nice splitter that I was able to retain with this body. I had cut it off the old body to run some short foams to lower the front of the body. It puts a little front down force farther forward. Lap times were equaled, not improved, but the track had some wet spots to deal with and hold me back just a little. I am running the LRP TC edition speed control with a Novak 3.5R and its fat tuning rotor. This is a nice very durable combination in the touring car. I still think the LRP 3.5 is a few tenths faster, but it blows the rotor up regularly even at near the suggested gearing of 9.6.
John

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Old 01-31-2008, 10:42 AM   #523
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TiR (Titanium Racing) at a web retailer

I made a search of TC5 hopups. This company popped out on about the 4 th page. They are based in Hong Kong and seem to have the entire TiR lineup. In addition they have the proper picture to go with the part so you are likely to get the correct part. Anyway I gave them a try. They have a good price on the lightweight center shaft at $10.00. Mine was scarred up from a bearing failure. The postage about $5.00 was reasonable. I'll make a short report when I get the stuff or no.

RCModelOnlineShop

http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/index.php...as3usight5bvp4

John

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Old 02-02-2008, 04:35 PM   #524
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Track Temp 90 F

Blown Rotor Return and Prevention
The LRP speed control and X11 3.5 motor came back from service yesterday. Service time is running about a month. The motor with blown rotor was replaced the speed control was fine as I suspected. Now how to keep from blowing these rotors in my kind of service. One aspect is gearing. I ended the day at 9.47. I tried 9.15 and the motor ran hot at 185 F. Both of these gears are taller than I have been using and give me less rip out of the corners. I can drive a tad smoother so maybe its a tossup. New lap times will tell the tale later on.

The second thing is that maybe we should treat this rotor like our full size car engines without speed limiter and tach. No revving without a load. That also means with the wheels in the air which I do on occasion to test the driveline balance. No more pinion off revving. Use only part throttle for these test and keep from over revving the motor. I don't know if this has any significance or if just track use is blowing the rotors. I have blown 3. It may be a combination of high amp draw (causing magnetic pull on the rotor) at high speed which you could not duplicate with no load. They do blow at the end of a straight. Average amp draw is 45 amps.

I have a new X11 coming soon. I plan to test it with the larger Novak tuning rotor which has held up well to my abuse.

We had 12 guys out for Saturday practice. The TC5 was really fast. Good comments from four guys.

Rear toe
If you followed the thread I added .25 degrees more rear toe (2.75 total) to cure a tail out on power problem on the sweeper. This problem returned very slightly. I cured it by replacing the plastic spacers which had gotten compressed with use a little.
John
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Old 02-04-2008, 10:45 AM   #525
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I'm just starting my kit and I'm having trouble getting the shock shaft into the shock body. The seal retainer seems to be too big to go into the shock body.
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