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Old 01-10-2008, 04:34 PM   #496
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Wheel Hexes
My testing is mostly complete. The Duratrax hexes failed at the pin. The plastic was too soft. See the pic. The associated hexes failed by being a little too small they spin inside the wheel rounding off their points and break the wheel hex eventually. The installed Losi Hex needs to be shimmed to fit the axle, but is a little bigger and works OK. These small Dubro 4 mm Steel nuts worked OK as well. Tell me if you see a better part come up. I like the wide width and the ability to wistand locked diff use.
John

Another beautiful day at the track. The car worked well except for the Dubro hex which let go after 3 packs. They are OK on the back.
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Old 01-10-2008, 06:13 PM   #497
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Quote:
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Wheel Hexes
My testing is mostly complete. The Duratrax hexes failed at the pin. The plastic was too soft. See the pic. The associated hexes failed by being a little too small they spin inside the wheel rounding off their points and break the wheel hex eventually. The installed Losi Hex needs to be shimmed to fit the axle, but is a little bigger and works OK. These small Dubro 4 mm Steel nuts worked OK as well. Tell me if you see a better part come up. I like the wide width and the ability to wistand locked diff use.
John

Another beautiful day at the track. The car worked well except for the Dubro hex which let go after 3 packs. They are OK on the back.
Hi John,

Would you like to consider trying the Tamiya Hex Hub?
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Old 01-10-2008, 06:31 PM   #498
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Default 4 center orings for upper deck

Hi John,

Need your help to advice on this:

From the Factory team drivers' setup sheet, there is this (4 O ring for upper deck). Are we refering to O rings below these 4 mounting points? (I am using the pic you had previously posted)

Appreciated. Thanks!
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Old 01-10-2008, 06:39 PM   #499
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Default Spool

Hi John: have you tested with converting a diff into a spool? I think it will hold up much better and cause less wear and damage to parts in event of a crash...JRX-S owners know the trick and it works nicely, allowing that slip after a crash which prevents more damage than with solid one piece spools...

If you dont have spool "pads", or dont want to make some, using some 60,000WT silicone oil will tighten then front diff a lot and make it "spool"-like, yet will slip on hard impact...you can use higher weight oil to tune, also...
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Old 01-10-2008, 07:49 PM   #500
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Pole Position-About those O-rings. I would put them under the four rear screws rather than distribute them front and back. A good change will result. Use them like you have pictured for a very minimal effect especially if you tighten the remaining four screws. And I say Argh. I hate this method about as much as the TC4 spine as far as being able to maintain a tweak free chassis with low wear of the top plate holes. You will be promoting movement and wear of the critical chassis parts.

I'll take a look at the Tamiya hex. What I need is something hard that fits snug in the wheel. The Losi hex is .001 bigger than associated but works better. Here is a link to the Tamiya part. Thickness and width accross the flats would be appreciated.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDLV2&P=OW

YYyayyim-I tried locking the TC5 diff early on. Here is a pic after one heat of a race. It was completely fried. I just cannot get enough tension from that tiny Associated Screw. The Losi screw is bigger here. I used Sandpaper disks in the pictured diff.

The TiR spool was on track to resolve some of these problems, but they are unresponsive to e-mails, unresponsive to received incorrect, orders, and generally a big frustration for me. I still did not get my plastic outdrives. It's been several months.

Note that Jamie has a foam tire question that needs some attention still.

So the question might be do we need multiple compound tires. I never felt the need to go this way when a satisfactory single foam tire was available when driving the 1/10 pan car.

We may have a heat of 5 electrics on the 20'th. We'll see. Exciting times.

Last edited by John Stranahan; 01-10-2008 at 08:23 PM.
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Old 01-10-2008, 08:15 PM   #501
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John,

Thanks for the input. Appreciate that.
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Old 01-11-2008, 09:43 AM   #502
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Foams should be fairly easy to tune to - if you're going through them too quickly (and you are) then try a firmer compound.

They should wear mostly flat - if they are "coning" then change your camber slightly to adjust - if the slope is down and away from the car, go slightly negative in camber. If the slope is down and IN to the car, you've gone too far. . .

They don't deal with sliding as well as rubber, however, so a smoother style worked best for me. I'd still pitch the car but it was deliberate. When I'd go through normal turns I tried to be very smooth with it - the rubber tires didn't mind me hauling it through the turns very aggressively, the foams would magically disappear when I tried to drive them that way. Because of their different friction types, they want to be driven slightly differently.


So, from what you said, I'd pop up a compound and stay solid. I'd also go a degree negative camber.

Also - ROTATE ROTATE ROTATE. You're going to want to rotate L to R after each race, just to keep them even otherwise you will actually accelerate the wear. . .
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Old 01-11-2008, 12:02 PM   #503
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Jaco Nitro shoes are pretty innexpensive and work nicely for electric TC's...use 37Shore 30mm rear tires and 37Shore 26mm fronts...good balance with this combo.

Kyosho 35 rear and Kyosho 38Fronts are an even better combination, but they are more expensive tires....use these in the Mains...or a "big" event, where you really need to step it up a notch...
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Old 01-14-2008, 08:56 PM   #504
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Thanks for the foam tire help again guys. I may be back on them myself soon. We have a new sprayer that will spray the track with sugar water in one pass. If they start using it routinely my rubber tire advantage may vanish.

Here is a pic of the Novak 13mm tuning rotor for their velocity series motors. This should give the motor a little more bottom end which is desirable in a four wheel drive with good traction. I'll test it this week in my TC5 in a 3.5R which I have been running this last week. So far the LRP X11 3.5 is just a few tenths faster in the touring car. This rotor may even things out. Other items on the testing block soon are the Protoform DNA2 body, some lightweight Kimbrough pinions in 17 tooth. HPI wheel nuts, Tamiya hexes.

I have purchased two TC3 blue graphite battery straps to use one for each battery. This will allow me to use the same tape for quite a while. This will also show if some of you want to use this longer Revolution Pro battery from FMA that you can do so with only a very minor conversion of this strap.

the rotor higher in the pic is the 13 mm rotor which is bigger than the one below for significantly less air gap.

John
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Old 01-15-2008, 01:12 PM   #505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Stranahan View Post
I'll take a look at the Tamiya hex. What I need is something hard that fits snug in the wheel. The Losi hex is .001 bigger than associated but works better. Here is a link to the Tamiya part. Thickness and width accross the flats would be appreciated.
Hi John,

The Tamiya hubs can be had in 3 thickness', 4mm, 5mm, & 6mm

Thickness cross the flats is 11.96mm (0.4705").

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Old 01-15-2008, 03:42 PM   #506
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Well, I finally soldered everything together (LRP Sphere TC and Novak 13.5) I programmed the ESC but forgot to edit modes 3&4. Tried and now can not get the mode button to go into profile edit mode again. I know its not your problem John, but I am just slightly venting since the car has never been on the ground. Gotta call LRP.
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Old 01-15-2008, 05:13 PM   #507
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Try Hard-Thanks a lot. I have a set ordered but the width was not specified. Maybe an old set. I think the problem I have with the associated hexes is that they are lightened to a thin flange which is not quite thick enough for the load. The Losi ones and Tamiya are not.

Rezencloud-3 seconds on the mode button should produce some flashes. Now here are some problems I have had with these tiny buttons due to lack of vision and feel. I push on the LED hole instead of the actual button.
The button is pushed but does not click on, due to lack of feel. Sometimes something pointy like an X-acto knife will give a better feel to the switch.
If there is still a problem, then unplug the battery for a good time to see if it will reset.
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Old 01-15-2008, 05:30 PM   #508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Stranahan View Post
Try Hard-Thanks a lot. I have a set ordered but the width was not specified. Maybe an old set. I think the problem I have with the associated hexes is that they are lightened to a thin flange which is not quite thick enough for the load. The Losi ones and Tamiya are not.

Rezencloud-3 seconds on the mode button should produce some flashes. Now here are some problems I have had with these tiny buttons due to lack of vision and feel. I push on the LED hole instead of the actual button.
The button is pushed but does not click on, due to lack of feel. Sometimes something pointy like an X-acto knife will give a better feel to the switch.
If there is still a problem, then unplug the battery for a good time to see if it will reset.
John
Hi John,
What was the part number? should be able to tell the wdith from that.

TAM53570 are 4mm
TAM53823 are 5mm
TAM53569 are 6mm

Thoose are the clamp type. I have one of each set in my pit box... I have a pet hate of using spacers, as like you seem to experince, they don't support the wheel hex well. So instead of using a 4mm hex and 1mm spacers, I'll just use a 5mm hub

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Old 01-15-2008, 05:33 PM   #509
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Tamiya wheel clamp
my order
53570

Your 6mm part number
53569

They lool alike. Maybe mine are just blue.
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Old 01-15-2008, 06:17 PM   #510
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Yup, no luck. Unfortunately I left work too late to call LRP. Ill be sending them an email instead. Its odd as everything else works fine. Oh well, being a computer consultant has taught me that anything that can go wrong with electronics usually does.
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