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Old 12-05-2007, 03:37 PM   #466
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Syndrome-Thanks for the report with the shortening details on those packs.

Track Report
70F, good traction on rubber, CS32's dry.

TiR spool and center shaft track report
I made a few changes since the last track session. I glued my plastic front Hexes to the front wheels to prevent rocking on brakes (This has been the source of my wheel nut problems). I had just put in the TiR center shaft (pic) and spool (pic). I went up .5 mm to prevent some contact on the straight. The car was faster than ever. Major gains were out of the corner where the car seemed to have more forward traction and some gains from the lighter center shaft letting the car spool up faster. I am starting to see some 1/10 pan car like bursts of acceleration out of the medium speed corners. I think that the flex in the spool is somehow contributing to forward traction by not absorbing the rocking motion of the drive shafts that is caused by the CVD's not being constant velocity joints. Instead of absorbing this vibration energy it is returning it to the tires.

The blue sleeves stayed put. There was no need for glue. I tapped one flapper board at high speed. There was no damage to the spool. No divot in the slot(I pulled the sleeve out to inspect). There is no wear apparent in the slots after 15 minutes of on track time. Things are looking good.

John
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Old 12-06-2007, 05:24 PM   #467
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Default Spool, Oneway or diff?

First of all, thanks to everybody who has contributed to this thread. Lots of useful information here.

I can see that generally people use a oneway on a free flowing open circuit, and a spool on a tight twisty.

When, if ever, would you use a 2 diff setup?

Peter Knudsen
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Old 12-06-2007, 07:09 PM   #468
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Peter-Thanks. I think you will find that running two ball diffs works very well everywhere. I would use this combination in a learning situation where you are moving up the pack week by week. It is the most durable. You will have fewer did not finishes. I used it on my flowing track with good success. I installed a locked diff after a few weeks to be able to use a little more brakes on a couple of hairpins and to get a little more speed out of the corners. The car was more stable, especially on brakes. The price I pay is constant wear,tear and breakage on the front axle and locked diff parts.
A oneway works very well on a flowing track, but I don't particularly care for them outside. They have the best corner entry, but are subject to dirt entry which destroys the very expesive one way center section. Brakes are not very usable.
The LOSI JRXS parts improved this some by having an extra O-ring to seal this area better. You break the outdrive often which requires maintenance that still lets the dirt in.
I am still waiting on a hardened steel locked diff although the TiR part is showing promise, I am again in the position of having no spares as they did not ship the spare Nylon outdrives that I thought I ordered.

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Old 12-09-2007, 04:08 PM   #469
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Center Shaft Gears
My glue on my center shaft gears was split back apart by the time I changed them to put in the TiR center Shaft. I thought I might have better luck with these brand new center shaft gears, so I glued them as well.
The front belt went through the center pulley very quickly. Probably because the belt was somewhat worn to start with and it was then used on a new pulley. I did retentioned it.
The first sign that there was a problem was when I was nose into a board and applied throttle to work my way out. The car screeched like a monkey. I thought I had stipped the spur, but the spur was OK. This screeching was the front belt slipping on the center pulley. This apparently started the destruction and 2-4 packs later the belt had a completely toothless region. See the pic. I put the old center shaft parts back on with a new belt to finish my racing. The glue up on the TiR shaft was still sound. Now another problem may develop on the rear pulley in that the superglue was not wet enough (maybe a little old). and left some bumps behind. Fortunatly this was on the rear belt which is lightly loaded.

Saturday Practice and Sunday Race Report
78F, traction medium high on rubber. The car seemed very fast on Saturday. Traction favored rubber tires. The car was faster than all the 1/10 Nitro's including one very good driver. I traded leads with one 1/8 scale.

Sundays race day the track has a little more traction. I qualified 5 of 12 Nitro's on the first heat. I am learning that during ifmar starts the Nitros won't let an electric by even if the electric is running second in the heat and they are fourth. This caused a couple of 3 seconds delays here and there in a heat. In theory on an IFMAR start you are on your own clock, you start within a 30 second window and allow anybody that catches you to pass by. Well that's the theory.
I changed the center shaft gears after the first heat. I changed the belt after the second heat. In the third heat I was running first in my heat and a car (4th place car) hit me hard enough from the outside of a corner to rip the arm and Nylon oudrive off the left front of the car when we entered the straight. The Nylon outdrive parted right at the bearing cleanly all the way through. The very intent of this part is to save the driveaxle, but you need the 6 spares that were not delivered. That was a DNF for me with the car in its best shape.

I put on the thick sway bar after heat one as a precaution agaisnt traction roll. I started with a new set of premounted Sorex 32 tires. I used the Associated Aluminum Hexes with the steel nuts really tight. I am awaiting Losi Aluminum Hexes and plastic hexes which are bigger. These tires worked really smoothly which will prevent a traction roll, but may not have quite as much traction on our track as Takeoff CS32's

I am not sure if the Salleen body is faster yet. It seems faster on the straight, but may give up a little in the corners by not having that huge rear wing of the Sedan Body. Both bodies are in perfect oversteer/understeer balance. The reason for this is the Salleen has a smaller wing but it is farther back on an extended tail of the body. I will make a swap mid race next time to see if I can get some numbers.

New things that I might order.
Nylon Outdrives for the TiR spool
at least one pair of aluminum drive axles for the rear from TiR.
My rear Aluminum Spool has nice notches worn in them by the original blades at this point. I probably will go back to plastic on the rear soon.

I keep hoping a second person will by an electric for our track. The TC5 has proven to be a durable machine with the latest LRP electronics.

John
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Old 12-11-2007, 10:22 AM   #470
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John, we had the same issues when we ran the pan cars (6cell mod) with the nitro guys. . . they would not move over at all, ever, and we had to be careful when dodging by them. . .

perhaps they couldn't hear us and glanced at us as we sped by them!
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Old 12-11-2007, 03:16 PM   #471
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Default TC5 balance weights

Hey all,i just thougt i would post some pics of my TC5 after balancing it.I made a cardboard template of the size of weights i needed and then reproduced that size in a dirt/sand mold.We then melted down some lead and pured it in.I made two of them and then got out the file and trimmed them up and fitted them to the chassis.I then drilled 2 hoiles for each and countersunk them and drove in a few 3/4" wood screws.I would like to thank Raffaelli for bringing his 4 scales to the track so i could balance the car out.It turns out i was almost perfect except for 3/4 oz more that i added to the battery strap.I will get that last 3/4 oz down lower in the chassis soon,but the car handles very well for now.Right now the car may be about 1 1/2 - 2 oz lighter than if i was running a 42oo nimh.These 3200 Orion lipos are only 7 oz.,and if you want to get anywhere near the legal weight you will have to add about 9 oz.My two weights are 6.75 oz plust the extra 3/4 oz that i needed for perfect balance.If i have to add more to make it "legal",then i will do so,but so far i have not had any complaints.I have been honest with everyone and told them my car is just a little light.I only race at our local track and so far my car is not an issue as far as weight.Anyway i just thought i would share this with evryone that is trying to balance using lipos.




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Old 12-11-2007, 03:51 PM   #472
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Your car isn't ROHS compliant, sir.
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Old 12-11-2007, 04:28 PM   #473
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adamge View Post
Your car isn't ROHS compliant, sir.


Funny thing is, I will need to add just a hair less when my 3600mah Orion Lipo comes in. This will be my first TC racing car, and one in which I will need to ADD weight in, I just didnt think I would need so much...ugh. I only bought 2 sticks of lead from Nexus racing, for sure thats not enough.
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Old 12-11-2007, 04:32 PM   #474
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GuruMods-Nice work on adding neat pieces of lead. Thats a lot of lead we need to add to be in compliance with Roar rules.
John
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Old 12-12-2007, 07:59 AM   #475
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John, what servo are you using in your car. I've read alot of people having trouble fitting certain servos because of the mounting brackets.
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Old 12-12-2007, 10:29 AM   #476
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In the beginning of the thread he stated he is using the Futaba BL451. I also have it in my car and it fits fine.
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Old 12-12-2007, 03:29 PM   #477
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Here is a link to that Futaba Servo which has pics and specs. It has been working very well. Now do you really need all this speed and quickness in a touring car. Well my answer is no. You may even drive smoother with a servo that is not so fast. Do you need the strength of the metal gears. My answer is yes. This reduces your number of DNF's (did not finish).
The case of this servo seemed to be a little bit narrower and the servo lighter than the servo I used previously.

The performance of this brushless servo is indistiguishable from digital servos I have used previosly.
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Old 12-12-2007, 03:47 PM   #478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Stranahan View Post
The performance of this brushless servo is indistiguishable from digital servos I have used previosly.
John
Just to clarify, the Brushless servos by Futaba are also digital.
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Old 12-13-2007, 07:15 AM   #479
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Thanks rez and john, I was looking at the futaba 9452 which is one of their newer digitals with a transit time of .11 which I think is fast enough and doesn't cost as much as the bls451. Heres a link:http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXRWS9&P=ML The servo seems to have all the goodies and is light weight compared to some others.
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Last edited by t4mania; 12-13-2007 at 07:45 AM.
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Old 12-13-2007, 10:37 AM   #480
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That servo you selected has great specs. The case width is the same as mine so it should fit well.
John

Last edited by John Stranahan; 12-13-2007 at 10:56 AM.
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