R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-25-2007, 02:36 PM   #241
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MI
Posts: 462
Default

If you stored your LiPo pack fully charged for an extended period of time there is a pretty good chance that it will go flat just like you have seen. I can't remember the exact chemical process but I think the plates end up corroding (increasing the resistance of the cell).

From what I've learned, it's important to charge the pack to about 75-80%. Anything above this and it will lose capacity over time. Store it too low and the same thing could happen or worse.

Your results may vary of course.
Unregistered is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2007, 03:56 PM   #242
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 3,777
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to John Stranahan
Default

Thanks for the post. I was under the impression it went flat before storage maybe Mr. Jolly can clear this up. I have seen the effect of storage on Apogee packs and Max Amp packs. You are basically wasting your time to store a well used one of these for any length of time and creating a little more of a safety problem for yourself.

Associated Aluminum Spool
Here are the new blue bits for the TC5. They should hold up better than the plastic outdrives for use in mod outdoors, less well than steel. I have installed a pin pillow in one of the rear diff halves so you can see where it goes. The dogbone pin goes in the holes of the pin pillows. The pillow prevents contact between the steel and aluminum. An if all goes really well the pin pillows stay put and you don't have to constantly screw with them.

The metal rear diff will prevent the spring from loosing its adjustment when the plastic oozes away from the pressure.

I don't like having to use pin pillows much as I have seen guys fight them every couple of heats. Maybe these will work out better.

Part numbers are
31175 Spool pulley (spare)
31181 Aluminum Outdrives
31179 Spool kit, Includes one pair of pin pillows and one pulley

John
Attached Thumbnails
Associated Factory Team TC5, Brushless, LiPo, Li-ion Nanophosphate, Tips and Tricks-associated-aluminum-spool-tc5.jpg  

Last edited by John Stranahan; 09-25-2007 at 05:31 PM.
John Stranahan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2007, 04:01 PM   #243
Tech Master
 
ooliganRC's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Under that rock you just kicked over!!!!
Posts: 1,040
Send a message via MSN to ooliganRC
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Stranahan View Post
Note that there are pics and test data from a newly aquired Lithium Ion nanoPhosphate (Li nPO4) stick pack on the Previous page.

The 4000 mA-h Max Amp pack that dumped had 4040 mA-h onboard. This is down only a little from the as delivered 4238 mA-h. This ammount was sucked dry in 5:20 seconds (I took one practice lap). That gives the car a 44 amp average amp draw. It had some slipping problems toward the end so this may come down a little. The new 4700 mA-h batts should be sufficient for a strong finish.
I was surprised that the motor was only 160 F. The hottest point was upper inner. It was cooler down below. It would be much hotter in a JRXS. I expect the difference is much better radiant and convective cooling in the TC5 from having the motor very open to the air.
Further inspection of the car shows that the rear diff went south when the front diff melted down. This is a peculiar failure as it was working well.
The front pulley did not lock down on the quick repair as it had been worn thinner. I have new parts coming. I wish that steel outdrives/diff flanges were available now.
It would be nice if that TIR diff with the blue outdrive covers was available through their shopping cart.
John
John it is, just order the diff assembly, any problems let me know and I speak with darren at TR for you
ooliganRC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2007, 04:08 PM   #244
Tech Master
 
ooliganRC's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Under that rock you just kicked over!!!!
Posts: 1,040
Send a message via MSN to ooliganRC
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Stranahan View Post
STLnst= I ordered a spool from associated. They promise me one in 10 days.

I notice that the price of the spool at associated and at tower was listed at 7.95 or so. I thought maybe this was not the spool and maybe some way of locking the plastic diff halves. The price is just mismarked. The price is 27.95 and it is the solid spool, I put up a link to previous. I got a corrective e-mail from associated. I hope the pin pillows fit.

I forgot that Losi superceded the sandpapaper disks with a spool pad made of some kind of plastic that snaps together over the Pulley less balls. I did use this pad mod in the JRXS and it seemed to work fine. I'll see if it fits our gear. The Associated and Losi diff rings used to be interchangeable. I am not so sure anymore as the diff balls and rings have been lightened with smaller and thinner parts respectively. One problem with locking the Associated parts this way is the screw is tiny. The nut does not quite have the strength it needs for this different duty.

I installed the LOSI JRXS spool pads in the TC5. They fit fine. They differ from the sandpaper in that they have teeth that fit in the spaces where the balls go. They snap in making assembly easier. They provide two plastic on steel clutches that has a bit more friction than paper on steel. I'll try it later this week until my spool comes from Associated. Losi diff rings and diff bearings will also fit this TC5 diff.

John

for info so do the TC3 Diff rings, and tamiya rings and balls, and so do the yokomo bd ones :P
ooliganRC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2007, 04:14 PM   #245
Tech Master
 
ooliganRC's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Under that rock you just kicked over!!!!
Posts: 1,040
Send a message via MSN to ooliganRC
Default

hey john and the rest of the TC5 mayhem club,


John those 6.6 cell lithum batteries can you send me a pm with details as i may purchase one for some testing.

As you may know our open Modified/brushless class runs 5 cell Nimh, so this may be a viable alternative. who knows??


I now have my TC5 fully indoor set up and it looks good, understeer from mid/exit due to running a spool indoors on carpet with rubber tyres.... have ordered a one way unit to solve that problem.

Im still surprised at how much weight is shed when you put the full itf chassis and top deck on the car, luckily we have room for lead :P

One thing i have noticed is that the car in stock set up is very narrow.
having spaced it out to 189 mm the car was alot more stable on tarmac.
ooliganRC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2007, 04:39 PM   #246
Tech Elite
 
MR JOLLY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MOOD;; feeling good not racing ,saving shed loads of money,lovely Tan i have aswell
Posts: 4,762
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Stranahan View Post
Thanks for the post. I was under the impression it went flat before storage maybe Mr. Jolly can clear this up. I have seen the effect of storage on Apogee packs and Max Amp packs. You are basically wasting your time to store these for any lenght of time and creating a little more of a safety problem for yourself.

John
right i'll take i bit more time in posting ,save on the confusion

trakpower is faster then the orion now ,but the orion was just as fast when it's was new

also the orion was stored with 3/4 charge ,see fuel gauge quote in last post

orion went flat before storage anyway
but i've yet to use the orion atall yet .i will this week some time

i ran the orion around a tarmac track in 19t class untill it went slow (litrally dump big time ,only done half a lap (if that) before coming of track ,i put it staright back on charge & charged no problem took like 4300 & 4.8a before amps started to slow down & the pack was showing around the 8.3v mark on my propeak prodigy II charger ,cahecked the orion over the last couple of weeks for volt & charge input ,nothing amiss atall if anything it is surprising how much charge is still in there 9tell by the way it goes to 4.a then start's dropping quite quickly to 2-3 a if not lower

performance on the track is the test baby
i'll report back ltr
__________________
EAMotorsports;;BRCA 27t National 2007 Champ's
FKO4,AdyB fan club !!
saying of the month;;The Past is History, the Future is a Mystery, this Moment is a Gift- that's why it's called The Present.
MR JOLLY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2007, 08:05 PM   #247
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 3,777
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to John Stranahan
Default

Thanks for the posts. Ooligan RC you have a PM. I have spaced out my car as well. (Use longer screws to prevent breakage of the tube nuts.)

Spool installation tips
You don't wan't anything that you add to the car to bind up the suspension movement. The pin pillow which is shown installed on the end of the dogbone was a bit tight in the slot. It would bind the suspension a little. I sanded them just a little by hand to make them slide smoothly in an out of the slot.
The tiny screws that secure the pulley to the spool have a tendency to work out from the vibration of the now locked CVD's. Use blue locktite on the screws. On the TC3 they would tend to back out and the first one would destroy the gear train. Not so here but it may cause a did not finish.

Aluminum Rear Diff
The second pic shows the installed Aluminum Rear diff. Nothing unusual here. I did sand the pin pillows which were not included with the diff. The pin pillows were a good fit. I would still use them here even though the diff is not locked. The pic also shows the extra long suspension mount screws which I added to strengthen the suspension nut which is only partially engaged when you put spacers behind the suspension mounts. The pic also shows the position of the spacers to give you maximum suspension mount flex in a crash. Anyway but down. A little repetition on these last two items but some readers are new to the thread. This red text was added later after the first post.
John
Attached Thumbnails
Associated Factory Team TC5, Brushless, LiPo, Li-ion Nanophosphate, Tips and Tricks-associated-tc5-front-spool-car-resized.jpg   Associated Factory Team TC5, Brushless, LiPo, Li-ion Nanophosphate, Tips and Tricks-associated-tc5-rear-aluminum-diff-resized.jpg  

Last edited by John Stranahan; 09-25-2007 at 09:06 PM.
John Stranahan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2007, 10:09 AM   #248
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,052
Trader Rating: 16 (94%+)
Default

I really like the Aluminum outdrives. I've used them in the past on other cars. Plus other quality sedans, like XRay and Schumacher, use aluminum outdrives from the get go for all purposes, one-ways and spools included.

Why would using aluminum outdrives differ between Outdoor, Indoor, Rubber, and Foam? Would you not get the same benefits for all uses? You would think that aluminum outdrives allow better adjustability and more consistent performance over plastic outdrives, and with the use of bone blades, wear should be minimized.

Thoughts/Opinions?
kn7671 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2007, 11:15 AM   #249
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 3,777
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to John Stranahan
Default

Personally I like the outdrives that the X ray T2 comes with stock. They are skeletonized hardened steel. The lightened steel TC4 outdrives are very nice as well and are hardened really hard. I like steel for outdoor open mod from a durability aspect. There is more grit outside. The tracks are usually a bit longer and you can use the most powerful motors. The steel just wears better and doesn't break as much. You have to finish to place.

When I was running stock motors in a TC3 on indoor asphalt, I would use the plastic rear diff and a locked steel front diff in a TC3. On the JRXS the plastic outdrives are fairly rugged so I would lock a plastic front diff for stock. I also used aluminum dogbones in front and the very light plastic/graphite dogbones in the rear in the TC3. The rear is lightly loaded to start with once you lock the front diff, and even lighter with stock motors. You don't need as much strength and can increase performance with the lighter parts. It is very hard to beat a TC3 setup this way with a stock motor indoors.

I have not liked Aluminum for outdrives much because They don't wear very well. If you loose a pin pillow early in a run, you can almost wear the drive out before the run is over. Now if these associated pin pillows will stay put then I might like them OK.

Because the Associated drive axle design puts the slender pin driving a steel cup on the axle, wear will be improved over the TC3. Also for this reason an Aluminum Dogbone should now wear well when these become available. This was a good move. I will use these outdoors when available as a bone only.

John

Last edited by John Stranahan; 09-29-2007 at 09:15 PM.
John Stranahan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2007, 03:41 AM   #250
Tech Master
 
ooliganRC's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Under that rock you just kicked over!!!!
Posts: 1,040
Send a message via MSN to ooliganRC
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Stranahan View Post
Personally I like the outdrives that the X ray T2 comes with stock. They are skeletonized hardened steel. The lightened steel TC4 outdrives are very nice as well and are hardened really hard. I like steel for outdoor open mod from a durability aspect. There is more grit outside. The tracks are usually a bit longer and you can use the most powerful motors. The steel just wears better and doen't break as much. You have to finish to place.

When I was running stock motors in a TC3 on indoor asphalt, I would use the plastic rear diff and a locked steel front diff in a TC3. On the JRXS the plastic outdrives are fairly rugged so I would lock a plastic front diff for stock. I also used aluminum dogbones in front and the very light plastic/graphite dogbones in the rear in the TC3. The rear is lightly loaded to start with once you lock the front diff, and even lighter with stock motors. You don't need as much strength and can increase performance with the lighter parts. It is very hard to beat a TC3 setup this way with a stock motor indoors.

I have not liked Aluminum for outdrives much because They don't wear very well. If you loose a pin pillow early in a run, you can almost wear the drive out before the run is over. Now if these associated pin pillows will stay put then I might like them OK.

Because the Associated drive axle design puts the slender pin driving a steel cup on the axle, wear will be improved over the TC3. Also for this reason an Aluminum Dogbone should now wear well when these become available. This was a good move. I will use these outdoors when available as a bone only.

John
John, any idea on where i can get the diff outdrives and spool from?
ooliganRC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2007, 06:56 AM   #251
Tech Fanatic
 
B4Bandit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Sydney, Australia. St Ives RC Club.
Posts: 960
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ooliganRC View Post
John, any idea on where i can get the diff outdrives and spool from?
Hey ooligan,

I'm not John but you can try Losi Parts House on this link:

http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...rts/Categories

Cheers,
Warwick.
B4Bandit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2007, 07:05 AM   #252
Tech Fanatic
 
B4Bandit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Sydney, Australia. St Ives RC Club.
Posts: 960
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Hey John,

Do you have a part number for the longer suspension mount screws?

Did you use AE screws or just source them from elsewhere?

Cheers,
Warwick.
B4Bandit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2007, 09:48 AM   #253
Tech Elite
 
Boomer's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Southern Cal - Claremont
Posts: 3,346
Send a message via ICQ to Boomer Send a message via AIM to Boomer
Default

If you can't find the ones you want through AE or wherever. . .try www.mcmcaster.com - one of my FAVORITE SITES (did you get that I love the store? LOVE THEM!!!)
__________________
-
RC10L2.5W - RC12.4 - RCNTC3(bmi) - TC4 (modded) - B44.2 - plus rent-a-rides! :D
Boomer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2007, 09:51 AM   #254
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 3,777
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to John Stranahan
Default

OOliganRC-I got my Associated Spool and Aluminum Outdrives directly from Associated USA. The spool is not a TIR spool.

Warwick-Those longer screws came from a metric screw assortment at my local hobby shop. I don't think Associated will have a part number for this length of screw as there are none this long on the kit. They are 3mm diameter x 15 mm long. The kit screw is 3 x 10mm
John
John Stranahan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2007, 11:21 AM   #255
Tech Master
 
ooliganRC's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Under that rock you just kicked over!!!!
Posts: 1,040
Send a message via MSN to ooliganRC
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by B4Bandit View Post
Hey ooligan,

I'm not John but you can try Losi Parts House on this link:

http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...rts/Categories

Cheers,
Warwick.
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Stranahan View Post
OOliganRC-I got my Associated Spool and Aluminum Outdrives directly from Associated USA. The spool is not a TIR spool.

Warwick-Those longer screws came from a metric screw assortment at my local hobby shop. I don't think Associated will have a part number for this length of screw as there are none this long on the kit. They are 3mm diameter x 15 mm long. The kit screw is 3 x 10mm
John
just got a phone call my local(ish) hobby store has the spool in .....im happy again. hopefully ill have it tomorrow
ooliganRC is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Pantoura, 1/10 Pan Car, 2S LiPo, Brushless, Tips and Tricks. John Stranahan Electric On-Road 2178 12-01-2010 11:26 AM
BRUSHLESS rc18t factory team with lipo dub599 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 11 06-16-2008 12:14 AM
Factory team B4 Novak brushless with lipo PTP Racing R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 1 12-13-2007 11:36 PM
Factory Team RC18T with hopups and brushless / lipo setup! Cain R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 5 11-26-2007 05:35 PM
Xray T2R, 2100 mah 2c LiPo, and Mabuchi power: Tech tips and Tricks gacjr0 Electric On-Road 46 11-18-2007 10:09 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:37 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net