TT-01 not included parts
07-27-2007, 05:20 PM
#1
TT-01 not included parts
Hi, I'm new to this hobby and was wondering if someone could help me pick out the parts I need to get my TT-01 up and running.
I'm in the process of building it and believe I need:
- Remote controller (should I get the 'radial' (?) kind?)
- Receiver (does it come with the remote sometimes?)
- 7.2V Ni-Cd battery (should I get the official Tamiya one, or which one?)
- Steering Servo (no idea)
It came with an ESC already.
By the way I'm in B.C. Canada so if you know somewhere that ships to Canada or a good hobby shop that I can get it from that would be useful!
Thanks for the help
I'm in the process of building it and believe I need:
- Remote controller (should I get the 'radial' (?) kind?)
- Receiver (does it come with the remote sometimes?)
- 7.2V Ni-Cd battery (should I get the official Tamiya one, or which one?)
- Steering Servo (no idea)
It came with an ESC already.
By the way I'm in B.C. Canada so if you know somewhere that ships to Canada or a good hobby shop that I can get it from that would be useful!
Thanks for the help
07-27-2007, 05:35 PM
#2
Hey Battle Cat, I am new here too, haha!
I think the stock ESC doubles as a reciever--which one did it come with? My CPR-01 is the reciever as well--the easiest way to tell whether it is a receiver or not is whether there is a single, long black wire.
I can't help you with the transmitter, since I have the RTR Pistol grip Tamiya one, which works alright. There are tons of transmitters out there but it depends on what you want out of your car. as you put more aftermarket motors/ESC's you're going to want a transmitter that can utilize all those options you'll get with better ESC's, and be able to monitor motor power.
Any 7.2V NiCAD will do-- just know that although 1500mAh may sound like alot, it only gives me around 15 minutes of run time before my ESC cuts out the power so the cells don't drop too low in voltage.
As for a servo, again it depends on what you need. If you describe what you're going to be doing with your car, I am sure other people/ myself can give suggestions on what you should get. In general though, you're going to want a strong servo that can put up with the stress.
BTW, I suggest you get ball bearings if you don't have them already. They're absolutely wonderful...
*re-read bolded text above* our responses will be much more personal to your specific situation if you do.
I think the stock ESC doubles as a reciever--which one did it come with? My CPR-01 is the reciever as well--the easiest way to tell whether it is a receiver or not is whether there is a single, long black wire.
I can't help you with the transmitter, since I have the RTR Pistol grip Tamiya one, which works alright. There are tons of transmitters out there but it depends on what you want out of your car. as you put more aftermarket motors/ESC's you're going to want a transmitter that can utilize all those options you'll get with better ESC's, and be able to monitor motor power.
Any 7.2V NiCAD will do-- just know that although 1500mAh may sound like alot, it only gives me around 15 minutes of run time before my ESC cuts out the power so the cells don't drop too low in voltage.
As for a servo, again it depends on what you need. If you describe what you're going to be doing with your car, I am sure other people/ myself can give suggestions on what you should get. In general though, you're going to want a strong servo that can put up with the stress.
BTW, I suggest you get ball bearings if you don't have them already. They're absolutely wonderful...
*re-read bolded text above* our responses will be much more personal to your specific situation if you do.
07-27-2007, 06:43 PM
#3
Hey Battle Cat, I am new here too, haha!
I think the stock ESC doubles as a reciever--which one did it come with? My CPR-01 is the reciever as well--the easiest way to tell whether it is a receiver or not is whether there is a single, long black wire.
I can't help you with the transmitter, since I have the RTR Pistol grip Tamiya one, which works alright. There are tons of transmitters out there but it depends on what you want out of your car. as you put more aftermarket motors/ESC's you're going to want a transmitter that can utilize all those options you'll get with better ESC's, and be able to monitor motor power.
Any 7.2V NiCAD will do-- just know that although 1500mAh may sound like alot, it only gives me around 15 minutes of run time before my ESC cuts out the power so the cells don't drop too low in voltage.
As for a servo, again it depends on what you need. If you describe what you're going to be doing with your car, I am sure other people/ myself can give suggestions on what you should get. In general though, you're going to want a strong servo that can put up with the stress.
BTW, I suggest you get ball bearings if you don't have them already. They're absolutely wonderful...
*re-read bolded text above* our responses will be much more personal to your specific situation if you do.
I think the stock ESC doubles as a reciever--which one did it come with? My CPR-01 is the reciever as well--the easiest way to tell whether it is a receiver or not is whether there is a single, long black wire.
I can't help you with the transmitter, since I have the RTR Pistol grip Tamiya one, which works alright. There are tons of transmitters out there but it depends on what you want out of your car. as you put more aftermarket motors/ESC's you're going to want a transmitter that can utilize all those options you'll get with better ESC's, and be able to monitor motor power.
Any 7.2V NiCAD will do-- just know that although 1500mAh may sound like alot, it only gives me around 15 minutes of run time before my ESC cuts out the power so the cells don't drop too low in voltage.
As for a servo, again it depends on what you need. If you describe what you're going to be doing with your car, I am sure other people/ myself can give suggestions on what you should get. In general though, you're going to want a strong servo that can put up with the stress.
BTW, I suggest you get ball bearings if you don't have them already. They're absolutely wonderful...
*re-read bolded text above* our responses will be much more personal to your specific situation if you do.
The ESC it came with is called a TEU-101BK... I don't see a single long black wire though :/
Ah yes, pistol grip is what I meant.
All I want to do with this car is have fun with it at the parking lot etc.. I don't know of any 'tracks'. I can't see myself getting too crazy with RC right now because I have lots of other stuff I need to do (uni.. work...)
Mooshu I forgot about those ball bearings though and I've already put together half the car! I'd hate to have to take it apart again hehe :/
So.... do the ball bearings add a lot? What do they do? Make it go faster? Glide further?
How fast does this car go?? I haven't really seen these kinds of RC cars (stock TT-01) in person, but are they a lot faster and cool than those radio shack ones?
I'm also looking for a good battery that will last more than 15 minutes!! As long as possible if I can!!! How long can they last at max?
Is it possible do drift a TT-01 stock?
So basicaly I just want to have some fun in the sun with this car... any help's appreciated thanks!
PS: how much more is it going to cost to buy the rest of what I need?
07-27-2007, 07:15 PM
#4
Haha, Radioshack ones? Wow, if you had Xmods we're more alike than I thought...
Ball bearings are incredible. You are going to want your car running as smoothly as possible, and ball bearings take out a lot of resistance. Also, since there is less resistance, this will give you better run times, and the ESC and motor will just run better in general.
an Aluminum driveshaft is recommended by a lot of people, but it's not a priority imo if you're parking lot bashing.
I am not sure how fast these go stock, but they go pretty fast. However, they have a bunch of good pro-stock motors, and your ESC apparently can go down to 23T. The less the turns, the faster in general. I use a trinity cobalt pro stock 27T, and it is really good. The only problem I have with it is that there are bushings in the motor and not ball bearings.
I can't really help you with the receiver... I would have thought that the ESC would also be a receiver but I guess not. When I find out how you do that, I'll let you know.
Hopefully some more experienced people will respond. I have another topic with my own questions that only 1 person replied to...
__________
As for drifting, I've been doing it myself. You're going to want to get an extra set of rims, and 2" ABS tubing if you can cut it. If not, they sell drift tires on Ebay for pretty cheap:Sushi Drift Tires.
That is a link to 12 tires... but he usually sells just 4. Just keep an eye out.
Stock everything else should work well. I have lots of fun drifting with what I have. The weight of this car aids in the realism of the real scale...
Ball bearings are incredible. You are going to want your car running as smoothly as possible, and ball bearings take out a lot of resistance. Also, since there is less resistance, this will give you better run times, and the ESC and motor will just run better in general.
an Aluminum driveshaft is recommended by a lot of people, but it's not a priority imo if you're parking lot bashing.
I am not sure how fast these go stock, but they go pretty fast. However, they have a bunch of good pro-stock motors, and your ESC apparently can go down to 23T. The less the turns, the faster in general. I use a trinity cobalt pro stock 27T, and it is really good. The only problem I have with it is that there are bushings in the motor and not ball bearings.
I can't really help you with the receiver... I would have thought that the ESC would also be a receiver but I guess not. When I find out how you do that, I'll let you know.
Hopefully some more experienced people will respond. I have another topic with my own questions that only 1 person replied to...
__________
As for drifting, I've been doing it myself. You're going to want to get an extra set of rims, and 2" ABS tubing if you can cut it. If not, they sell drift tires on Ebay for pretty cheap:Sushi Drift Tires.
That is a link to 12 tires... but he usually sells just 4. Just keep an eye out.
Stock everything else should work well. I have lots of fun drifting with what I have. The weight of this car aids in the realism of the real scale...
07-27-2007, 07:37 PM
#5
hi battle cat the TEU-101BK is an standalone esc only.
EngTat
EngTat
07-27-2007, 07:39 PM
#6
Battlecat, your best bet is to go to your local hobby store and ask in person. When I started I bought a TL01. For a transmitter I bought a Futaba 2pl which came with a receiver and couple of cheap servos and was about $100CAD. For a battery I just bought a cheap 1500mah stick pack(won't last 15 minutes though) for $20 and a cheap charger for about $65.
For drifting all you'll need is to get some 2" ABS pipe from a local hardware store and cut it down to fit on your wheels and you'll be set. You don't need to do anything more to the car if you want to drift.
For drifting all you'll need is to get some 2" ABS pipe from a local hardware store and cut it down to fit on your wheels and you'll be set. You don't need to do anything more to the car if you want to drift.
07-27-2007, 07:52 PM
#7
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For batteries you might really want to look into lipos. With one lipo battery you can reuse it multiple times throughtout the day and depending on the motor and how you run it, you'd probably get 10~15 minutes per charge. Plus the chargers are not too expensive.
07-27-2007, 08:42 PM
#8
The only problem with LiPos is that the TT-01 is designed with the weight of 6 NiCAD cells... and the weight distribution would be off.
Lipo cells are also rather expensive in my opinion-- a 1500mAh NiCAD stick you can get for $20, and buy a couple so you have a cycle going.
Do you guys find rear toe in that useful? I am debating whether to get it or not...
Lipo cells are also rather expensive in my opinion-- a 1500mAh NiCAD stick you can get for $20, and buy a couple so you have a cycle going.
Do you guys find rear toe in that useful? I am debating whether to get it or not...
07-27-2007, 09:59 PM
#9
Hi welcome to the hobby
i would recomend going with a NIMH battery instead of NiCd, also if u want 15 mins with a 540 silvercan( i presume ur using the stock motor) ull prob need to go 3000+
get ball bearings
, they will increase run time and a make the car a bit faster.
if you want a speed boost without gettin a new motor you could go for 55spur gear/25 pinnion gear, this is the lowest gear ratio you can put in a tt.
Also when i started racing with my tt i found you break the front gearboxes a lot so you may want to keep some as spares(parts tree B i think)
hope all this helps
i would recomend going with a NIMH battery instead of NiCd, also if u want 15 mins with a 540 silvercan( i presume ur using the stock motor) ull prob need to go 3000+
get ball bearings
, they will increase run time and a make the car a bit faster. if you want a speed boost without gettin a new motor you could go for 55spur gear/25 pinnion gear, this is the lowest gear ratio you can put in a tt.
Also when i started racing with my tt i found you break the front gearboxes a lot so you may want to keep some as spares(parts tree B i think)
hope all this helps
07-27-2007, 10:04 PM
#10
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The only problem with LiPos is that the TT-01 is designed with the weight of 6 NiCAD cells... and the weight distribution would be off.
Lipo cells are also rather expensive in my opinion-- a 1500mAh NiCAD stick you can get for $20, and buy a couple so you have a cycle going.
Do you guys find rear toe in that useful? I am debating whether to get it or not...
Lipo cells are also rather expensive in my opinion-- a 1500mAh NiCAD stick you can get for $20, and buy a couple so you have a cycle going.
Do you guys find rear toe in that useful? I am debating whether to get it or not...
I put together a TT-01 (350Z) for my son to run in the TCS Spec class and the car ran nice the way it is. I did however add the following:
Ball bearings, oil-filled shocks, adjustable arm set, and the turnbuckle steering tie-rod set. Using the kit supplied 540, I was impressed on how fast it actually went. (Faster than a few 540 attempts that I have tried) I think the ESC had a lot to do with the performance (ko propo vfs)
If anything GET BALL BEARINGS!!! Tamiya ball bearings are actually very nice. you will not regret this hop up. Even if your car is halfway built, stop and get the bearings.
07-27-2007, 10:08 PM
#11
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Here is a useful gear chart for the TT-01
07-28-2007, 12:25 AM
#12
Halp
wow thanks guys for all the info!
I'm going to the hobby store tomorrow to get some ball bearings!!!
I also want to get:
- transmitter (pistol grip? yes no?) not sure if I should buy it online though
I'm looking at towerhobbies.com and found this Futaba 2PL for $70usd... I just want to know if the servo, receiver and transmitter it comes with will work with my car
- 7.2V batteries. I found these 2400mAh 6cell nicd bateries there... will they work and last longer than 1500mAh? I was wondering why you guys suggested 1500maH and not higher.. any particular reason? they are $40 so I guess that's pricey, but if they last me 30 mins then I think they'd be worth it...
does anyone know how many times they can be recharged in their lifetime? and can someone explain why minicooper said "With one lipo battery you can reuse it multiple times throughtout the day" because I thought any nicd can be reused multiple times throughout the day?
- I found a Tamiya servo also here, will it work? I would probably rather get the transmitter that comes with servo, receiver etc. if it works. $35
- Also found a Tamiya receiver $37
- these ball bearings say they're for the TL01, so will they work with the TT01? I'm guessing yes. $25.
- can't seem to find "55spur gear/25 pinnion gear" on towerhobbies.com... anyone know where I can get them from? I don't really understand how spur and pinnion gears work
thanks
I'm going to the hobby store tomorrow to get some ball bearings!!!
I also want to get:
- transmitter (pistol grip? yes no?) not sure if I should buy it online though
I'm looking at towerhobbies.com and found this Futaba 2PL for $70usd... I just want to know if the servo, receiver and transmitter it comes with will work with my car
- 7.2V batteries. I found these 2400mAh 6cell nicd bateries there... will they work and last longer than 1500mAh? I was wondering why you guys suggested 1500maH and not higher.. any particular reason? they are $40 so I guess that's pricey, but if they last me 30 mins then I think they'd be worth it...
does anyone know how many times they can be recharged in their lifetime? and can someone explain why minicooper said "With one lipo battery you can reuse it multiple times throughtout the day" because I thought any nicd can be reused multiple times throughout the day?
- I found a Tamiya servo also here, will it work? I would probably rather get the transmitter that comes with servo, receiver etc. if it works. $35
- Also found a Tamiya receiver $37
- these ball bearings say they're for the TL01, so will they work with the TT01? I'm guessing yes. $25.
- can't seem to find "55spur gear/25 pinnion gear" on towerhobbies.com... anyone know where I can get them from? I don't really understand how spur and pinnion gears work
thanks
Last edited by battlecat; 07-28-2007 at 12:38 AM.
07-28-2007, 12:44 AM
#13
Hi
1. 2pl is a good radio. all included things (reciver,servo) will work fine.
2. Theres nothing wrong with higher capacity batts, go as high as you are willing to spend
3.If you take care of ur batt packs they will last u a quite a while
4.Not that sure bout Nicd as i use Nimh but it is advised to discharge the pack after a run to 0.9v per cell (5.4v per pack) before recharging.
5.use the servo with radio, will save you buying a new one. you get 2 with the radio so u have one spare anyway
6. not sure if the TL bearing kit will fit the TT. If you take the instructions to ur LHS (local hobby shop) there will be a bearing sizes in the back they can refer to
7.Again just ask your LHS .
hope that helps
1. 2pl is a good radio. all included things (reciver,servo) will work fine.
2. Theres nothing wrong with higher capacity batts, go as high as you are willing to spend
3.If you take care of ur batt packs they will last u a quite a while
4.Not that sure bout Nicd as i use Nimh but it is advised to discharge the pack after a run to 0.9v per cell (5.4v per pack) before recharging.
5.use the servo with radio, will save you buying a new one. you get 2 with the radio so u have one spare anyway
6. not sure if the TL bearing kit will fit the TT. If you take the instructions to ur LHS (local hobby shop) there will be a bearing sizes in the back they can refer to
7.Again just ask your LHS .
hope that helps
07-28-2007, 01:03 AM
#14
awesome thanks.. I think I'll get the 2pl transmitter ($70), 1900mAh batteries for $17 each, and I found the REAL TT-01 bearings here that are cheaper ($19)
Is there anything else I should order from towerhobbies just so I can get everything I might need or want?
Is there anything else I should order from towerhobbies just so I can get everything I might need or want?
07-28-2007, 05:07 AM
#15
Yeah, higher capacity batteries also mean slightly higher performance in terms of power. However I am happy with the 3 1500 mAh NiCADS (which I wish were NiMH) since I can charge all of them, and when I deplete one battery I have another one to run while I charge a different set.
If I were you, I'd get the Trinity Cobalt 27T stock motor, and if you can afford the extra $5, the Trinity Cobalt 27T PRO. The Pro is tested and trued by the guys who make the motor, and in the end you have a better and more balanced motor. However, this motor is around $36 last time I checked... and if you get this you're going to want an aluminum shaft.
I'm telling ya, once you start you just can't stop...
If I were you, I'd get the Trinity Cobalt 27T stock motor, and if you can afford the extra $5, the Trinity Cobalt 27T PRO. The Pro is tested and trued by the guys who make the motor, and in the end you have a better and more balanced motor. However, this motor is around $36 last time I checked... and if you get this you're going to want an aluminum shaft.
I'm telling ya, once you start you just can't stop...