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Old 07-31-2007, 03:50 PM   #16
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Yes---it goes all directions.....

We clean up all returned motors, (discard the really beat-up ones), add a new rotor, retest and they are ready for the replacement/exchange/upgrade program. You can exchange any 540 motor---working or not---for any rmf series/wind of your choice. New 120 day warranty.
Now we are cooking with natural gas hmmmmmmm. Charlie, you have seen me on many a thread, many a forum (rctech, rcuniverse, radiocontrolzone, ultimaterc, all under "bxpitbull") and KNOW that I am probably the biggest Novak fan that isnt paid to say it I put a F/T ad out there, if there is nor response, then thats the course of action I am taking. Thanks. And thanks SWTour for reminding me of the trading policy.
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Old 07-31-2007, 03:53 PM   #17
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Does the fee still aply when downgrading in motors? Charlie i have a brand new 4.5 that has never been soldered, just doesnt have packaging .. Do i have to pay 45 bucks to get a 13.5 ?
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Old 07-31-2007, 06:08 PM   #18
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Whats up my man Un4racing? This will be totally in electric. Will be making my way to Nanuet to race where FastHarry catches wreck. I know the parking lot scene done by bruckner is sizeable but not huge and want to be prepared. I wont do stock (13.5bl/27t brushed) and if I can get my Pro4 to run consistantly at say 30-35 mph, temps linger at or around 120 degrees (my 3.5 hasnt seen temps higher than 140, remember, gear to run, not to thermal boyz) with good recovery speeds for the straights...thats what I'm looking for. I see people talking about getting good mph's with 13.5's and that just sounded a bit odd to me. So I figure, take it down a few notches and actually have some fun, mano e mano or in this case electric with electric.
How about a 4300 for a 3.5.? Got one of those. Thats one of 2 I don't have in my arsenal.
I have a 4300 that spanks Gas Trucks. Its got a sintered rotor in it and is fairly new. 5 days of racing on it. Though they were long mains its still got a can that seems to be one of the faster 4300's Ive owned. I have 3, 4300's.
Let me know we can trade can for can. If you have a 3.5.?

I would keep a 5800 and a 5.5 handy. That 5800 is sweet with the sintered rotor.
Let me know, I can mail the can out any time. And it has the new stand up tabs.
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Old 07-31-2007, 11:04 PM   #19
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How about a 4300 for a 3.5.? Got one of those. Thats one of 2 I don't have in my arsenal.
I have a 4300 that spanks Gas Trucks. Its got a sintered rotor in it and is fairly new. 5 days of racing on it. Though they were long mains its still got a can that seems to be one of the faster 4300's Ive owned. I have 3, 4300's.
Let me know we can trade can for can. If you have a 3.5.?

I would keep a 5800 and a 5.5 handy. That 5800 is sweet with the sintered rotor.
Let me know, I can mail the can out any time. And it has the new stand up tabs.

Whats the brushed equivalent? This is after you've watered my palette for the 10.5. The 3.5 is staying in the Cyclone, the milder motor is headed for the Pro4..
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Old 07-31-2007, 11:52 PM   #20
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Whats the brushed equivalent? This is after you've watered my palette for the 10.5. The 3.5 is staying in the Cyclone, the milder motor is headed for the Pro4..
I'm not sure of the exact turn vs brushed but it feels like a 5 or 6t to me. The 5800 feels like 9 double with the sintered rotor or maybe a 10t.???

I checked the Novak chart to see if it would cover equivalents and couldn't find it.
I thought they had one.
Its been so long that I ran a brushed motor. It feels like a brushless 5.5 or a 8.5 or a 10.5.

http://www.teamnovak.com/products/br...spec_chart.htm

It was worth a try. I wouldn't give up my Ace either.
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Old 08-01-2007, 01:55 AM   #21
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I'm not sure of the exact turn vs brushed but it feels like a 5 or 6t to me. The 5800 feels like 9 double with the sintered rotor or maybe a 10t.???

I checked the Novak chart to see if it would cover equivalents and couldn't find it.
I thought they had one.
Its been so long that I ran a brushed motor. It feels like a brushless 5.5 or a 8.5 or a 10.5.

http://www.teamnovak.com/products/br...spec_chart.htm

It was worth a try. I wouldn't give up my Ace either.
Not my ace, just one that was tearing up bevels in my Pro 4..which is why I am dummying that car down. If I can get 30 minutes with my 3.5, I know I can get like forever with something a bit more mild.

the 4300 might be too mild...read:

The SS4300 Racing Stock Brushless Motor is one of three brushless motors from Novak. Designed for use with either the Super Sport ESC (#3205) or the Super Sport Plus Brushless/Brush ESC (#1705), the SS4300 provides all of the advantages of the SS5800 Brushless Motor, but provides lower speeds for increased vehicle control for newer drivers, and longer run-times for those trying to get some valuable "practice" time on the track. With a Kv rating of 4,300 RPM/Volt, a Kt rating of 0.45 in-oz/amp, and a power output of 175 watts, the SS4300 Brushless Motor provides performance similar to a 27-turn racing stock brushed motor.
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Old 08-01-2007, 07:30 AM   #22
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Not my ace, just one that was tearing up bevels in my Pro 4..which is why I am dummying that car down. If I can get 30 minutes with my 3.5, I know I can get like forever with something a bit more mild.

the 4300 might be too mild...read:

The SS4300 Racing Stock Brushless Motor is one of three brushless motors from Novak. Designed for use with either the Super Sport ESC (#3205) or the Super Sport Plus Brushless/Brush ESC (#1705), the SS4300 provides all of the advantages of the SS5800 Brushless Motor, but provides lower speeds for increased vehicle control for newer drivers, and longer run-times for those trying to get some valuable "practice" time on the track. With a Kv rating of 4,300 RPM/Volt, a Kt rating of 0.45 in-oz/amp, and a power output of 175 watts, the SS4300 Brushless Motor provides performance similar to a 27-turn racing stock brushed motor.
I know for a fact you wont like any thing slower than a 5800 sintered. 4300 is the slowest I own. 4300 will barely get the heart pumping. Now the 5800 will get the heart racing and make you feel more live. The 3.5 on the other hand.? I may be to old for the 3.5. Don't need a heart attack.
Sure would like to go for a heart check. If come off the 3.5 PM's working.
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Old 08-01-2007, 09:34 AM   #23
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I know for a fact you wont like any thing slower than a 5800 sintered. 4300 is the slowest I own. 4300 will barely get the heart pumping. Now the 5800 will get the heart racing and make you feel more live. The 3.5 on the other hand.? I may be to old for the 3.5. Don't need a heart attack.
Sure would like to go for a heart check. If come off the 3.5 PM's working.
The 3.5 is my nitro killer, my crown jewel. The 10.5 will be my fun racer. I may just opt for the exchange program if there are no takers in the forums.
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Old 08-01-2007, 09:50 AM   #24
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I have always been a mod guy, ran stock brushed when I first got into the game, ran 19t for a hot minute and basked in the glory of 12 double tri-rotor, 10 doubles, 8 singles and doubles (D5 flatwire, yea baby) 7 doubles (p-94 oh my God). When I got bit by the brushless bug, I leaped feet first into the fire with the 4.5 then onto the 3.5. Well, running the 3.5 in my Pro 4 and Cyclone has been a blast. Never clocked, but I know I have hit the 50 mph easily and have thoroughly enjoyed speed complimented by good run times and no heat issues (I gear to run, not to thermal). Well, in light of all of this speed and accompanying good times, maintennance and BREAKAGES have occurred; not with relative frequency, but quite enough. I have been reading quite alot about the Novak mild brushless family (8.5, 10.5 yada yada) and am wondering, which should I step down to? I want to keep the car fast, but it doesnt have to be blistering and running li-po, I hear that stock doesnt really stretch the legs of li-po packs. In addition, I will be running this mild modified set-up in my Pro 4, so I will need some gearing suggestions for a medium sized track that will give me good run times. Now that I have hurt your eyes, suggestions please. And please Novak suggestions only....
a "Marine" stepping down???


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Old 08-01-2007, 10:15 AM   #25
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I think stepping down from a 3.5 or 4.5 to a 10.5, you are just going to say, wow, this is slow. My suggestion would be a 6.5 w/ sintered. Yes, of course this is biased, as it is what I run in my 4 wheeler offroad. But it does fit your above criteria. It has go, out of the corners, and at 3/4 of a 90ft straight, it is doing 35 mph. This is outdoors and offroad though. The only problems I have; it gets hot, of course I am braking, well, a lot. It comes off the track at 170 F, speedo at 120 F, but it seems to hold at that temp no matter how long I run it. But we do 10 min mains, and it is fine.
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Old 08-01-2007, 10:21 AM   #26
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I think stepping down from a 3.5 or 4.5 to a 10.5, you are just going to say, wow, this is slow. My suggestion would be a 6.5 w/ sintered. Yes, of course this is biased, as it is what I run in my 4 wheeler offroad. But it does fit your above criteria. It has go, out of the corners, and at 3/4 of a 90ft straight, it is doing 35 mph. This is outdoors and offroad though. The only problems I have; it gets hot, of course I am braking, well, a lot. It comes off the track at 170 F, speedo at 120 F, but it seems to hold at that temp no matter how long I run it. But we do 10 min mains, and it is fine.
i think the 5.5 its a great alternative, its plenty fast and easier to drive than the 3.5 and 4.5
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Old 08-01-2007, 10:25 AM   #27
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I think I mightve jumped the shark on this one, but, count on me to get a thread started. I am not going to give up my 3.5 or Cyclone, that is speed I need to stomp nitro dudes, but, considering I never raced with a mild brushless motor and my Hara Pro 4 is looking lonely and HURT as a roller, I have to put in something that will make it run nice AND wont eat bevel gears. Too many dudes come on the threads and make love to the 19T and 27T(whatever the BL equivalent is) thread and I want to be part of the fray, well, just the conversation part anyways. I see more talk of set-ups in the milder motor winds and want to see what it do. I know my Cyclone is blistering fast and that I will never part with. But, no one races hot electric in nyc, so its either race with the nitro cats (which leads to alot of anger, but hey, they dont want no prah-blums) or read about good set-ups online.
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Old 08-01-2007, 10:26 AM   #28
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I think stepping down from a 3.5 or 4.5 to a 10.5, you are just going to say, wow, this is slow. My suggestion would be a 6.5 w/ sintered. Yes, of course this is biased, as it is what I run in my 4 wheeler offroad. But it does fit your above criteria. It has go, out of the corners, and at 3/4 of a 90ft straight, it is doing 35 mph. This is outdoors and offroad though. The only problems I have; it gets hot, of course I am braking, well, a lot. It comes off the track at 170 F, speedo at 120 F, but it seems to hold at that temp no matter how long I run it. But we do 10 min mains, and it is fine.
Do you run a fan on the motor? I run a fan on the motor and the GTB(of course) and that keeps my temps WAY down.
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Old 08-01-2007, 10:38 AM   #29
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Do you run a fan on the motor? I run a fan on the motor and the GTB(of course) and that keeps my temps WAY down.
No fan on the motor, yes on the speedo. I haven't any room for a fan on the motor. It is in an original BJ4.

If you want to run with local electrics, and it is between 19t or stock. Do the 19t~4300 w/ sintered. And have fun with the setups.
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Old 08-01-2007, 11:00 AM   #30
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I thought the 4300 was equivalent to a 27t??? My boy UN4racing wanted to trade and I know his stuff is good....hmmmm the plot thickens. This is about to turn out very nice after all.
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