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Old 07-26-2007, 05:03 PM   #16
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at some tracks do they run them together?
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Old 07-26-2007, 05:09 PM   #17
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We run them together at our local points series.
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Old 07-26-2007, 10:37 PM   #18
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what is a good 13.5 turn brushless and esc combo?
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Old 07-26-2007, 11:07 PM   #19
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i would go with the Novak GTB 13.5 combo
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Old 07-26-2007, 11:47 PM   #20
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TC5 is a belt car, so naturally it will be easier to drive (I know this first hand) The TC4 being shaft driven will have a bit of pull one way due to the nature of a shaft car. The TC5 seems very consistent no matter where I take it and I would HIGHLY suggest it. As for building and maintainance... the TC5 was the first "racing spec" touring car that I ever built and it practically put its self together. And aside from the usual maintainance (cleaning, nut and bolt check, ect..)the TC5 is no tougher to maintain than any other car I have owned.

As for the brushless question. Everyone seems to be switching from the GTB's to the LRP Spheres. And using Novak 13.5 motors. From what I understand, the Sphere just has more punch. But im sure there are plenty more people that are more knowledgeable that I am who can tell you better than I can.

At my local tracks we run brushed with brushless and lipo with ni-mah... this will vary from track to track, so await the response from the race director. I am looking to switch to lipo due to the sheer ease of use. When you take discharging out of the equation, it frees you up to work on the car and not have to worry about it. Also, the lipo packs will not loose punch like a ni-mah pack will.

hope this helps!

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Old 07-27-2007, 12:53 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K_Spec_RC View Post
TC5 is a belt car, so naturally it will be easier to drive (I know this first hand) The TC4 being shaft driven will have a bit of pull one way due to the nature of a shaft car. The TC5 seems very consistent no matter where I take it and I would HIGHLY suggest it. As for building and maintainance... the TC5 was the first "racing spec" touring car that I ever built and it practically put its self together. And aside from the usual maintainance (cleaning, nut and bolt check, ect..)the TC5 is no tougher to maintain than any other car I have owned.

As for the brushless question. Everyone seems to be switching from the GTB's to the LRP Spheres. And using Novak 13.5 motors. From what I understand, the Sphere just has more punch. But im sure there are plenty more people that are more knowledgeable that I am who can tell you better than I can.

At my local tracks we run brushed with brushless and lipo with ni-mah... this will vary from track to track, so await the response from the race director. I am looking to switch to lipo due to the sheer ease of use. When you take discharging out of the equation, it frees you up to work on the car and not have to worry about it. Also, the lipo packs will not loose punch like a ni-mah pack will.

hope this helps!

-Keith
Right, before you decide on ANYTHING concerning brushless & LiPo stuff, you NEED to talk to your local tracks(or wherever you intend to race) & find out if it's ok with them to run them. As an example, my local track is only just getting comfortable with allowing the Novak 13.5 BL motor to run along with stock brushed motors, but we've only allowed it to be used with its original bonded rotor(the bonded rotor isn't as strong as the sintered rotor that comes with the 13.5 Pro, & it also make the motor run hotter, so those of us who use it have to gear very carefully to prevent it from overheating & to prevent the ESC from shutting it down during a race). And we haven't yet allowed LiPos at all in our onroad racing, but I suspect that that may soon change(as may the bonded rotor rule, I think enough of us here have them now so we may start using sintered rotors finally). You REALLY need to talk to your local track first, & then decide if you wanna use BL motors & LiPos. Oh, & about what car to get, there are plenty that will be competitive, but to start I suggest one that's very tough also, & most of the top level cars can also be a bit more prone to breaking things(they sacrifice parts flexibility for stiffness & light weight, meant for those who can drive it right & avoid contact, can get frustrating if you break something every time you race), & as such I'd suggest you have a look at Tamiya's TA05, it's a GREAT beginner's car that can also keep up with many more expensive cars, you WON'T outgrow it as you get better, but it's tough as a tank & easy to get comfortable with. It's only real downside is weight, it does weight more than the more expensive cars, but again that's something you really don't need to worry about as a beginner(you won't be able to take advantage of a super lightweight car for awhile, not till you can drive near perfectly, same also goes for buying super expensive batteries, motors, etc. what little edge they can give will be wasted the first time you hit a wall or inner barrier, so just think about mid-level electronics for now, & then as you gain experience & can setup a car & drive better you'll be ready to step up to the best stuff)....
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Old 07-27-2007, 01:05 PM   #22
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well my race runner guy, hasnt responded yet so ill make a tread for the track asking what the rules are. i relize that i should look at durability and rc car action said it was durable for a high end car. is on road realy hard to drive? in off road we seem to have a lot more obsticles for keeping a good consistant line, and ive been told i keep a very consistant line.
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