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Old 12-15-2005, 10:29 AM   #526
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howdy fellas, some of you know me, some of you wish you didn't. some of you will wish i never joined, but here i am.
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Old 12-15-2005, 10:35 AM   #527
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chris morrison - we are on the same page man. i am have been building the exact car that you have posted picts of. down to the same kit you converted from. i am having a bit of a problem deciding how to mount the tubes. here is what i have come up with. i can see that you have shortened the ball cups, did that give you enough clearence to mount the tubes, or did you have to shorten the tube itself aswell? the other question i had is that it looks like you have use the orig hara top pod plate is this the case? if so did you solve the problem of the tube hitting the tweak screws by simply using shorter screws, or am i missing somthing obvious?
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Old 12-15-2005, 10:40 AM   #528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by al dente
howdy fellas, some of you know me, some of you wish you didn't. some of you will wish i never joined, but here i am.
I can see right now that we'll have to find a new place to play.
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Old 12-15-2005, 10:45 AM   #529
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doug - get off the computer and go cut my chassis j.k.

does anyone have a link to where i might be able to find an upper chassis brace #90214. i want to make some mods to mie, but want to have an extra incase i screw it up
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Old 12-15-2005, 10:51 AM   #530
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DPowell, you have pm.
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Old 12-15-2005, 03:54 PM   #531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by al dente
chris morrison - we are on the same page man. i am have been building the exact car that you have posted picts of. down to the same kit you converted from. i am having a bit of a problem deciding how to mount the tubes. here is what i have come up with. i can see that you have shortened the ball cups, did that give you enough clearence to mount the tubes, or did you have to shorten the tube itself aswell? the other question i had is that it looks like you have use the orig hara top pod plate is this the case? if so did you solve the problem of the tube hitting the tweak screws by simply using shorter screws, or am i missing somthing obvious?

al dente here are your answers the rear top deck is from a associated 12l3 or 12l4 there the same .
tweak screws are shorter a 1/3rd shorter then stock.

dampener tubes are .415 inch shorter and ball cups 2/3rds shorter.
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Old 12-16-2005, 08:25 AM   #532
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chris - thanks for the info. finished mine up last night. car looks and feels awesome. it just took me looking at your picture for the obvious to smack me in the face. now if i could just get this powell guy to make me a chassis.

just kiddin doug. you know the deal.
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Old 12-16-2005, 08:58 AM   #533
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Maybe a dumb question but, what effect do the damper tubes have on the handling of the car? I bought my car used and it didn't come with them. Is this something recommended for the car?
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Old 12-16-2005, 10:03 AM   #534
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stiltskin - if your car does not have dampning tubes, it most likley has a disk setup. the two disks rub on the top and bottom of the upper pod plate. the amount of dampning is adjusted by the amount of pressure applied to the disks by the springs sitting above and below the disks. the more pressure, the more dampning you get. dampning tubes are different because the dampning is adjusted by the weight of the oil in the tubes. higher wt oil gives you more dampning than lighter. it is personal preference which system you use.

it is my opinion that the tubes are a better set up for a coulpe of reasons. the first is that the disk system also affects the front/rear damping of the car. so if you want to lighen the side to side dampning of the car, you must increse the dampning in the shock so that the over all front/rear dampning stays the same. with the tubes, side to side dampning can be changed almost exclusively from the front/rear.

secondly, i feel that the disk system offers less protection form debris getting caught up in the system and making the car less consistant. we all know how the fuzz from the carpet and spent tire foam gets thrown around under the body of the car during a race.

finally, the tubes look cool. and they are available in a couple of colors to bling out your wagon.

hope this helps.

chris - how did you compensate for the fact that the holes in the chassis brace are larger than the ball studs supplied the the calandra kit for the tubes? i ended up using the larger, red studs used for the steering rods, and taking the a trailing arm from the carpet knife and made two rod ends for the tubes in order to fit over the larger ball studs. the big wheel keeps on turning.
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Old 12-16-2005, 10:13 AM   #535
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I have the top deck from an the 12L3
where can I buy dampening tubes?
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Old 12-16-2005, 10:16 AM   #536
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we got ours from crc
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Old 12-16-2005, 10:36 AM   #537
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crc is a good bet, i would also imagine that most online stores will have them. stormer usually seems to have everythig i ever wanted.
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Old 12-16-2005, 10:54 AM   #538
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al dente. Thanks for the explanation. You're alright, no matter what the other guys say.
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Old 12-16-2005, 11:13 AM   #539
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chris - how did you compensate for the fact that the holes in the chassis brace are larger than the ball studs supplied the the calandra kit for the tubes? i ended up using the larger, red studs used for the steering rods, and taking the a trailing arm from the carpet knife and made two rod ends for the tubes in order to fit over the larger ball studs. the big wheel keeps on turning.[/QUOTE]


i drilled holes between the body mount holes on the rear deck
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Old 12-16-2005, 03:09 PM   #540
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chris - thanks.

doug - you know what i want.

stiltskin - no problem, hope it helped.

scooter - you here too?
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