BMI's DB12R
10-26-2009, 06:45 PM
#8026
The changes..
Went one step lower on the forward shock mount
Harder (red) spring installed
Moved the servo to the rearward mount but still flat on the chassis. This changed weight distribution (more to the rear), and ackerman.
That was about it. That and I corner weighted the car with 4 scales and added about 8 gm of lead on the Rx side.
But the bigges thing I did to improve the car... was focus on my line more and stop being so harsh on the turn in. I also turned my DR down (at about 55% now) even when running Black fronts /Yellow rears.
I did testing wtih Magenta all around, 2x Pink F / Magenta R, Purple F/Magenta R but they all lost grip and fuzzed up toward the end. Black and Yellow were faster through the entire race.
Went one step lower on the forward shock mount
Harder (red) spring installed
Moved the servo to the rearward mount but still flat on the chassis. This changed weight distribution (more to the rear), and ackerman.
That was about it. That and I corner weighted the car with 4 scales and added about 8 gm of lead on the Rx side.
But the bigges thing I did to improve the car... was focus on my line more and stop being so harsh on the turn in. I also turned my DR down (at about 55% now) even when running Black fronts /Yellow rears.
I did testing wtih Magenta all around, 2x Pink F / Magenta R, Purple F/Magenta R but they all lost grip and fuzzed up toward the end. Black and Yellow were faster through the entire race.
last week to get more steering i went to an angled servo and inline front axles, this seems a step too far(lap times were not much lower but less consistent). so maybe the answer is a little weight back, flat servo and red spring in the softest position.
thanks for the info.
tony
10-27-2009, 08:38 AM
#8028
Jason, any update on when those new flex plates will be avalible? Also will those fit the r car or only the rr car. I need to place an order and if those will fit my old car I'd like to order those too.
10-27-2009, 10:38 AM
#8030
Tech Adept
Hey,
One important thing I forgot to ask... How to gear Mod 4.0T Brushless with 1S LiPo and receiver pack. I used to gear a LRP X12 5T between 30-32 mm with 4-cell, so what should it be now?
Thanks
One important thing I forgot to ask... How to gear Mod 4.0T Brushless with 1S LiPo and receiver pack. I used to gear a LRP X12 5T between 30-32 mm with 4-cell, so what should it be now?
Thanks
10-28-2009, 06:50 AM
#8031
my current setup for reference:
10 degree blocks with (rearmost) 6 degree castor
front width increased slightly with 2 brass shims on axles
.020 front spring w/ #3 on the kingpins
angled servo
black 42mm full sauce
1 1/2 degrees camber
0.5 toeout
3.5mm ride height
slight droop (2 shims above eyelet with fresh springs)
Rear
lipo centered in slots
std flex plates in long position w/o set screw
#3 in the tubes
Gold spring w/ 50 wt. oil in the silva shock
medium ballstud +2 brass shims on shock mount 1 step from most aft location (shock is pretty close to 2.95" free length)
yellow rear tire 45mm
1. pod droop
3.5mm ride height
172mm wide
pod level
my current ambition is to search for less scrub on corner entry and more corner speed.
last week i tried inline front axles with the above which made lap times less consistant, and went back to trailing axle.
so the current questions:
1) front tire wear, even with the camber pretty much maxed out (without cutting something) i still get a reverse coning wear pattern on the front tires. with 1/8 scale i was taught to adjust camber to get even wear across the front tires.
is this common for 1/12 scale, or is there some other adjustment i should be chasing?
2) corner speed on carpet strategy(s?)
for 1/12 stock (1s 13.5) i don't see an obvious choice between
a) short tight lines with reduced corner speed
b) straight lines and medium radius corners with some loss of corner speed
b) longer radius corners at higher corner speed.
i am still a carpet newb, but it seems that the carpet sucks so much speed off the car in a turn that i want to take a tighter line to minimize this load on the car, without resorting to too much brake on corner entry.
do fast stock cars run with wide open lines or tighter lines with minimal off throttle, or some other tactic?
thanks for the help, tony.
10 degree blocks with (rearmost) 6 degree castor
front width increased slightly with 2 brass shims on axles
.020 front spring w/ #3 on the kingpins
angled servo
black 42mm full sauce
1 1/2 degrees camber
0.5 toeout
3.5mm ride height
slight droop (2 shims above eyelet with fresh springs)
Rear
lipo centered in slots
std flex plates in long position w/o set screw
#3 in the tubes
Gold spring w/ 50 wt. oil in the silva shock
medium ballstud +2 brass shims on shock mount 1 step from most aft location (shock is pretty close to 2.95" free length)
yellow rear tire 45mm
1. pod droop
3.5mm ride height
172mm wide
pod level
my current ambition is to search for less scrub on corner entry and more corner speed.
last week i tried inline front axles with the above which made lap times less consistant, and went back to trailing axle.
so the current questions:
1) front tire wear, even with the camber pretty much maxed out (without cutting something) i still get a reverse coning wear pattern on the front tires. with 1/8 scale i was taught to adjust camber to get even wear across the front tires.
is this common for 1/12 scale, or is there some other adjustment i should be chasing?
2) corner speed on carpet strategy(s?)
for 1/12 stock (1s 13.5) i don't see an obvious choice between
a) short tight lines with reduced corner speed
b) straight lines and medium radius corners with some loss of corner speed
b) longer radius corners at higher corner speed.
i am still a carpet newb, but it seems that the carpet sucks so much speed off the car in a turn that i want to take a tighter line to minimize this load on the car, without resorting to too much brake on corner entry.
do fast stock cars run with wide open lines or tighter lines with minimal off throttle, or some other tactic?
thanks for the help, tony.
Last edited by avs; 10-28-2009 at 09:39 PM.
10-28-2009, 11:59 AM
#8032
Just saw this in a different thread and thought it belonged better here 
http://www.redrc.net/2009/10/bmi-rac...ando-gordinho/
http://www.redrc.net/2009/10/bmi-rac...ando-gordinho/
10-29-2009, 06:08 PM
#8034
Tech Elite
iTrader: (64)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Conducting aggressive board meetings at my local track
Posts: 3,301
Trader Rating: 64 (100%+)
Jason! What's the word on them new flex plates you're workin on?
10-29-2009, 08:04 PM
#8035
Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside doing things in places... Denver, CO
Posts: 4,609
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Thx
10-30-2009, 04:00 AM
#8036
Tech Elite
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Comin at ya from a distant galaxy
Posts: 2,930
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
Hey Guy's, just be a little patient on new flex plates, they'll be out soon
10-30-2009, 04:08 AM
#8037
Tech Elite
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Comin at ya from a distant galaxy
Posts: 2,930
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
Hey avs,
Try these changes in blue
Hope this helps any more questions feel free to ask
Mike
Try these changes in blue
Hope this helps any more questions feel free to ask
Mike
my current setup for reference:
5 degree blocks both shims to the back
front width increased slightly with 2 brass shims on axles
.020 front spring w/ #3 on the kingpins
angled servo
black 42mm full sauce
1 1/2 degrees camber
0.5 toeout
3.5mm ride height
slight droop (2 shims above eyelet with fresh springs)
Rear
lipo centered in slots
std flex plates go to the next holes back w/o set screw
#4 in the tubes
Gold spring w/ 50 wt. oil in the silva shock
medium ballstud +2 brass shims on shock mount 1 step from most aft location (shock is pretty close to 2.95" free length)
Move shock mount towards rear of the car (effect: changes the leverage of the shock on the pod free's up the rear helps the car rotate better
yellow rear tire 45mm
1. pod droop
3.5mm ride height
172mm wide
pod level
my current ambition is to search for less scrub on corner entry and more corner speed.
last week i tried inline front axles with the above which made lap times less consistant, and went back to trailing axle.
so the current questions:
1) front tire wear, even with the camber pretty much maxed out (without cutting something) i still get a reverse coning wear pattern on the front tires. with 1/8 scale i was taught to adjust camber to get even wear across the front tires.
is this common for 1/12 scale, or is there some other adjustment i should be chasing?
2) corner speed on carpet strategy(s?)
for 1/12 stock (1s 13.5) i don't see an obvious choice between
a) short tight lines with reduced corner speed
b) straight lines and medium radius corners with some loss of corner speed
b) longer radius corners at higher corner speed.
i am still a carpet newb, but it seems that the carpet sucks so much speed off the car in a turn that i want to take a tighter line to minimize this load on the car, without resorting to too much brake on corner entry.
do fast stock cars run with wide open lines or tighter lines with minimal off throttle, or some other tactic?
As for driving lines watch and race with the faster guys at your local track. Study there lines how the drive would be the best bet
thanks for the help, tony.
5 degree blocks both shims to the back
front width increased slightly with 2 brass shims on axles
.020 front spring w/ #3 on the kingpins
angled servo
black 42mm full sauce
1 1/2 degrees camber
0.5 toeout
3.5mm ride height
slight droop (2 shims above eyelet with fresh springs)
Rear
lipo centered in slots
std flex plates go to the next holes back w/o set screw
#4 in the tubes
Gold spring w/ 50 wt. oil in the silva shock
medium ballstud +2 brass shims on shock mount 1 step from most aft location (shock is pretty close to 2.95" free length)
Move shock mount towards rear of the car (effect: changes the leverage of the shock on the pod free's up the rear helps the car rotate better
yellow rear tire 45mm
1. pod droop
3.5mm ride height
172mm wide
pod level
my current ambition is to search for less scrub on corner entry and more corner speed.
last week i tried inline front axles with the above which made lap times less consistant, and went back to trailing axle.
so the current questions:
1) front tire wear, even with the camber pretty much maxed out (without cutting something) i still get a reverse coning wear pattern on the front tires. with 1/8 scale i was taught to adjust camber to get even wear across the front tires.
is this common for 1/12 scale, or is there some other adjustment i should be chasing?
2) corner speed on carpet strategy(s?)
for 1/12 stock (1s 13.5) i don't see an obvious choice between
a) short tight lines with reduced corner speed
b) straight lines and medium radius corners with some loss of corner speed
b) longer radius corners at higher corner speed.
i am still a carpet newb, but it seems that the carpet sucks so much speed off the car in a turn that i want to take a tighter line to minimize this load on the car, without resorting to too much brake on corner entry.
do fast stock cars run with wide open lines or tighter lines with minimal off throttle, or some other tactic?
As for driving lines watch and race with the faster guys at your local track. Study there lines how the drive would be the best bet
thanks for the help, tony.
10-30-2009, 05:32 AM
#8038
Yeh can you give us some insight as to what they are? I have an order for parts I want to place, but since shipping is pretty expensive through the BMI store, I want to consolidate my orders. So I would dig to know what the deal is with the new plates so I know if its something I should wait for or not.
Thx
Thx
10-30-2009, 05:39 AM
#8039
Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside doing things in places... Denver, CO
Posts: 4,609
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Kick ass!! eagerly waiting to place that order + new flex plates
10-30-2009, 12:25 PM
#8040
Tech Regular
Hi
Just got a tq booster but it is the type with a switch it has a black wire from the booster to the switch then from the switch one red wire.
Is this missing a blacn wire or does it pick the negative elsewhere?
Thanks
Just got a tq booster but it is the type with a switch it has a black wire from the booster to the switch then from the switch one red wire.
Is this missing a blacn wire or does it pick the negative elsewhere?
Thanks
