BMI's DB12R
07-10-2008, 10:46 PM
#5101
Tech Fanatic
The nature of the silicone jacket on the wire we use makes it very difficult to attach it to the chassis. It just doesn't stick to anything that well. I've tried ca, shoo goo and epoxy and the best solution is the 5 minute epoxy I have been using. It doesn't stick all that well but better than the others, which the wire peels right off of as soon as it dries. At least the epoxy forms a filet around the wire and holds it in place pretty well.
All that being said, the wires mostly only need to be held in place until the batteries are installed
All that being said, the wires mostly only need to be held in place until the batteries are installed
07-11-2008, 03:17 AM
#5102
Tech Rookie
Is the se edition BMI the same cost as the normal one just that i ordered one a while back and now im getting excited 
just that i ordered one a while back and now im getting excited
07-11-2008, 08:56 AM
#5103
The SE kit is a little more expensive than the stock kit. I increased the price because of the higher costs involved with making it. It comes with the upgrade parts you would need to purchase with the standard car. It also has parts that are unique to the this particular car such as standoffs and pods which made it a bit more pricey but not too bad. The price is $299.99 for the SE.
07-11-2008, 09:28 PM
#5104
Well I decided there isn't enough time to rewire again before this sunday's race so I'll keep mine the way it is and re-wire it for the next race.
07-12-2008, 12:30 AM
#5105
OD, try contact adhesive. We call it Evo-Stick over here, I'm not sure what it's called Stateside. It's the stuff used to glue tyres - applied as a liquid, leave to 'dry' for 10 minutes, push the two parts together and it stays stuck! I use this for fixing silicone wire to chassis, and it works well. It does come undone eventually, but when its done it doesn't fall off like the others do!! HTH
I'll try it some time, although the 5 min epoxy works pretty good. But if and when you might want to remove it, the contact cement will come right off. Excellent!
07-13-2008, 04:02 AM
#5106
Tech Master
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I have just finished assembling some batteries for my BMI however, once I went to see how they fit, I cant seem to get them under the shock! I'm using EP 4200's. The only thing I can think of is to loosing off the screws at the top of the pod. Any one have some suggestion's? I have my 1st 12th scale race on Wednesday.
07-13-2008, 04:52 AM
#5108
Tech Master
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Thats what I thought, but I'm a bit rough and now I have a bent shock shaft!
Is this the only way to get em in? Maybe I should make them into saddle packs.
Jas, any suggestions?
07-13-2008, 05:16 AM
#5109
yeah it's the only way. I've seen people use screw on ball studs instead of ball cups (similar to the xray shock bottoms) but I haven't tried it yet. I tried the saddle packs also but the batteries didn't seem to stay in place very well like they do with the 4-cell design.
07-13-2008, 11:07 AM
#5110
Here's a good picture of what to use, it's taken from the Mark Payne site which is a good read for anyone with a 12th scale http://www.markpayneblog.blogspot.com/ :
Call ya in the morning Jason. 
07-13-2008, 10:51 PM
#5113
We were off the pace a bit today out here in Hawaii...I think we finished 3rd, 4th, and 5th. I took a turn wrong and rather then gun it with cars coming up behind me I chose discretion and didn't realize I had let Xtant by for 3rd! LOL. Mostly it was the drivers just having an off day.
My car is pretty quick but I need to work on the setup some. When I ran Magentas all around the car was pretty good. With the double pinks the car is loose for about the first 2 to 3 minutes of the race then goes to a push while on-throttle and just a hair loose under acceleration. Maybe the softer magentas were masking the problem or maybe my setup just works better with magentas. At first I thought it was because the tires were new and hadn't had any traction compound accumulated in them yet...but this was the 2nd race with the same problem. My setup is:
Front:
ride height: 5mm
front spring: .20 linear
dampening: 5000wt on the king pin
caster block: 10 degree
caster: 1 shim front 1 shim back
camber: 1.5 degrees
toe: 0 toe
Rear:
ride height: 5mm
spring: Red
dampening: 35wt shock, 5000wt tubes
flex plates: stock
droop: slight rear droop, maybe .5mm
shock mounting: Tall ball stud
Seems like I should be able to hold more speed through the turns then I am.
My car is pretty quick but I need to work on the setup some. When I ran Magentas all around the car was pretty good. With the double pinks the car is loose for about the first 2 to 3 minutes of the race then goes to a push while on-throttle and just a hair loose under acceleration. Maybe the softer magentas were masking the problem or maybe my setup just works better with magentas. At first I thought it was because the tires were new and hadn't had any traction compound accumulated in them yet...but this was the 2nd race with the same problem. My setup is:
Front:
ride height: 5mm
front spring: .20 linear
dampening: 5000wt on the king pin
caster block: 10 degree
caster: 1 shim front 1 shim back
camber: 1.5 degrees
toe: 0 toe
Rear:
ride height: 5mm
spring: Red
dampening: 35wt shock, 5000wt tubes
flex plates: stock
droop: slight rear droop, maybe .5mm
shock mounting: Tall ball stud
Seems like I should be able to hold more speed through the turns then I am.
07-14-2008, 11:33 AM
#5115
I'll give that a try, won't that decrease rear traction though? Oh I forgot...I have the battery in the middle setting at the moment. I tried the foward setting when I first built the car but didn't have enough rear traction so I moved it back.
Last edited by InspGadgt; 07-14-2008 at 12:24 PM.