schreff

iTrader: (5)

You know what, you reminded me about my center shock height. I do have 2mm spacers under the shock mount.

darnold

iTrader: (2)

Schreff - you have a P.M.

BSchorr

iTrader: (101)

What holes do you guys have your buttom body clips at?

RCSteve93

iTrader: (11)

It depends on the body. I move mine up or down, depending on the type and off set of the body, so that is a question that will have hundreds of answers.

mxracer23

I was wondering if anyone (cough Jason) be willing to put together a setup cheat sheet for the car. I have been playing with the car trying to eliminate my on power push and I am not sure how chages effect this car compared to t-plate or spring cars. I make changes that people suggest but I am not always sure what they are going to change I just make them and run it. Would be nice to know how they work together to get the final setup

Like flex plates thinner or thicker how does it effect handeling. I have been using Rich Changs (SP) guide but I'm not sure that its dead on for this car. Anyone willing to take a crack at it. It would be a huge help.
Thanks,
Mark

protc3

iTrader: (13)

I am about to head home so i will post some info up here on setups when i get home. I have found out alot of what this car likes and doesnt like this past weekend. Let me have a little info on what motor,tires,traction compound and such so i can help you out.

ChestyV32

iTrader: (32)

Here is my final setup from the FCC race 4

FRONT
.020 springs
-1.5 camber
4 deg caster
.5 deg toe in
10 deg upper arm mount
flat servo medium ball stud (black)
3.5mm front ride height

REAR
30wt shock oil
Windtunnel Silver spring (one pound heavier than gold)
1mm pod droop
black ball stud under front of shock
.068 flex plate
set screws in but not touching
batteries forward
4mm ride height rear
172mm rear width
15000 wt dampner fluid wind tunnel #4

SPeed 12 body
Jaco prizms front-Lilac 1.67 rear-yellow 1.75
sauce was handout jack the gripper
sauce full back inside half front
New cross brace
Proto chassis same as schreff
thats about it

Lost Aggresiva

iTrader: (2)

Well, how 'bout a Novak 17.5, Prizm Lilac fronts and Yellow rears, and Paragon. The track is fairly smooth with med. grip and about a 80 foot straight away. Any advice?

Bill D.

protc3

iTrader: (13)

I would try running Purple fronts w/ grey rears and cut them to 1.750 rear and 1.700 front.

Front:
.020 front springs w/ #3 surelube on the kingpins
1.5 degrees of camber
servo flat and bumpsteer compensated for with medium black ballstud
3.5mm ride height
4 degrees castor(1 shim front and rear of the arm)
sauce inside 1/2 of front tires

Rear:
Batts in the middle for a smoother track,forward for bumpy(moving them forward takes weight away from the center pivot making the chance of bottoming out less)
stock flex plates w/ no set screws
New cross brace
#4 surelube in the tubes
40 wt. oil in the shock with a red spring
Tall ball stud(silver) with no shims
172mm rear track width
sauce full rear tires

I also prefer a speed 8 body

protc3

iTrader: (13)

Rich Changs set up guide is actually really nice. The problem you will run into is things such as tire choices,diff condition and radio setup. This is where alot of problems occur. Some people run too soft of a tire which will kill corner speed and make the car push.I just had this happen to me this past weekend. What happens when you run too soft of a tire is the foam is too soft to dig and bite the front end down. What i try to do is always start with yellow and magenta. I get the car running as best i can and then start going to a harder front tire. This past weekend i wound up going to a purple front because they did yield the most corner speed and efficient steering. The softer tires made the car push on power.
Building a good diff is EXTREMELY important. You want it as free as possible with no slip when you get on throttle. You never want the diff to slip. This is not a tuning option,it is a cover up for an off centered axle. You want your diff just tight enough that with a fresh pack and motor, it doesnt slip when you gun it. You want it to be extremely free also. I prefer using thin silicone grease such as the AE silicone. Adrian showed me a nice trick. He fills a small container with the grease and put the diff balls in it and gets them covered in the silicone. Following this,just put the balls in the gear without applying any diff grease to the holes in the gear. Once you have the diff assembled and the nut just touching to start the diff action,You want to slowly tighten the nut until it is difficult to slip by hand. Once you get to this part,What you want to do it cut the diff in or seat the diff. What i do for this is hold 1 wheel firmly along with the spur gear. Now you want to spin the opposite wheel causing the diff to slip. I will slip it about 100-150 times and after every 20 spins or slips i will slightly rotate the diff to roll to a different area of the diff ball. Once this is complete, Now i do the other wheel. Once this is done, your diff should be very well seated and very free. Just keep in mind that however free your diff is, the better the car will rotate.
Radio settings are not something to be overlooked either. Oversteering your car will result in loss of cornerspeed or lack of efficient steering. First off,you want your steering turnbuckles to be identicle in length. If they are not your steering geometry will be different from left to right. Make sure your servo saver is at 90 degrees to the chassis when the front wheels are straight. Now you want to turn the car and radio on. Set you EPA to adjust your steering circles without bottoming the steering blocks out. You want them as tight as possible without bottoming and with your dual rate as high as it will go. Once you have accomplished this, You will want to set your dualrate for the given track. You dont want the car to bind up in any corners. Reduce the d/r until you can make all of the corners without binding the car up. You will see what i mean when you try it. I usually start out with my d/r set so i turn 3 ft. circles and adjust it from there.

CraigX

iTrader: (34)

Wish I could have done better this past weekend but I think we all learned alot from this race. By the end of the weekend I was running pretty much the same setup as Schreff but with Jaco Magenta fronts and Jaco Yellow rears. I was also running the short chassis, thin side plates and new chassis brace. BTW, the #4 Windtunnel fluid seems to be the equivalent of 20K diff lube. My car felt great on the track in the main just did not turn the laptimes that were needed...still have some work to do with chassis as well as hp at this level of competition.

darnold

iTrader: (2)

How was the car over the bumps Craig? What else did you want or need the car to do? The grip looked like it was really high, was it higher than Mimi's?

AChupp2

iTrader: (24)

Anybody have a recommendation for rollout using a Novak 17.5 brushless? Also what gearing (spur and pinion) and tire size for that rollout?

RcLoCo Online

my car will be here tomorrow :^) for mounting flat what do i need exactally to get rid of bumpsteer, parts , build etc...thanx, also i read red spring opposed to the gold?the reason for this is? Thanx in advance,im looking forward to this car, i took it hands down over the rev.5, seems to be the better choice!

RcLoCo Online

mounting the servo flat that is. im assuming this is better for high grip carpet.