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Old 07-14-2013, 10:05 AM   #8716
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Hey Guys,

I have an original DB12 with the fiberglass L-plates, was thinking of upgrading to newer specs for a spare car, What do You suggest for new parts, or is it kinda outdated compared to My CRC genXL, Have mostly run T-bar cars, had to go to link cars for 1s lipo, just thought instead of hanging on the wall, I could try the BMI for shits and giggles.
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Old 11-07-2014, 12:54 AM   #8717
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Default back on the track

Just got my DB12r back on the track after a long time sitting in a box.

Quick question, I cant really remember how these used to drive, but should I have brakes?

I apply brakes, but there is no positive braking.. just no fwd.

Is this something with the direct drive? or should my esc motor be able to stop this car? I have set the esc .. full brake, but nothing seems effective.
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Old 11-07-2014, 07:33 AM   #8718
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikerbob View Post
Just got my DB12r back on the track after a long time sitting in a box.

Quick question, I cant really remember how these used to drive, but should I have brakes?

I apply brakes, but there is no positive braking.. just no fwd.

Is this something with the direct drive? or should my esc motor be able to stop this car? I have set the esc .. full brake, but nothing seems effective.
I just got one of these back on the track recently as well. But to answer your question, you don't need brakes...so don't worry about a "lack" of them. Brakes are for TC, where the effect is at all 4 corners.... you don't want brakes on the rear tires only. If you do dial in some brakes, make it very minimal, if at all.
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Old 02-09-2017, 12:16 PM   #8719
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bean guys... so I have had this BMI car for a few years now that I got in a trade just sitting on the shelf. I need a bit of advice/setup/identification.

First off... would like to know exactly what it is that I own. Please check out the pictures. What front end is that? Did the previous owner get the lipo chassis?

2nd question... the car came wired with a Tekin RS that I had removed and used in another vehicle for some time. The voltage booster is a TQ, I think and would like to know how to wire it back up properly.

Thank you. =)
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Old 02-09-2017, 12:18 PM   #8720
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2nd picture
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Old 02-09-2017, 12:45 PM   #8721
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Looks like a DB12RR with either a Silva or Hot Bodies center shock and an Associated Dynamic Strut front end with CRC caster blocks.
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Old 02-09-2017, 01:47 PM   #8722
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Looks like this is THE car...

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...mi-db12rr.html

DB12R and DB12RR came standard with associated L4 style front ends using IRS parts.
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Old 02-09-2017, 02:07 PM   #8723
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Rear pod has been lightened with a drill by the look of it.
Yes that is a TQ booster. Should be red wire to + and black to - on esc and plug into receiver.
Post a picture of the side links as they don't look like the one used on the lipo chassis
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Old 02-09-2017, 02:26 PM   #8724
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When you run the Tekin RS with the booster, leave the main power switch OFF or it will overheat the esc. The booster will back feed the power to the esc automatically. You also should go into the HW software and click the "1S" checkbox. If your running a 17.5, I would also go higher on the throttle profile.

If you are running spec tires on the new CRC carpet, glue the front sidewall of the tire all the way up and even 2mm on the top. Once you do this the car will be fast and smooth.

If the side leaf springs are yellow fiberglass, then it's definately the DB12RR
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Old 02-09-2017, 04:07 PM   #8725
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Biz, acts close, but not my exact car. My rear pod has drill lightening to it.

So I don't plug in the Tekin to the receiver at all? Also, to understand... hard wire the red wire from booster to battery <+> terminal directly and use the power switch on booster to turn everything on?

Eddie, thank you for the advice. Check out this picture below to see the side of the car. It's got the carbon fiber hockey sticks I think?
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Old 02-09-2017, 04:10 PM   #8726
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Also, no that last picture you can see the slots for lipo chassis. Makes sense that it is, because he gave me the regular chassis as a spare. Must've been an upgrade kit at some point
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Old 02-10-2017, 07:47 AM   #8727
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZEe_NYC View Post
Biz, acts close, but not my exact car. My rear pod has drill lightening to it.

So I don't plug in the Tekin to the receiver at all? Also, to understand... hard wire the red wire from booster to battery <+> terminal directly and use the power switch on booster to turn everything on?

Eddie, thank you for the advice. Check out this picture below to see the side of the car. It's got the carbon fiber hockey sticks I think?
The Tekin gets plugged in normally, just make sure the Tekin power switch stays off. The booster goes to an empty channel like a transponder.
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Old 02-10-2017, 09:27 AM   #8728
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Just to confirm you have a DB12RR with the lipo chassis, and yes that is the TQ booster. I ran that same booster/Tekin setup for years in my BMI cars. As stated the red wire to the pos esc terminal, black to the neg esc terminal and both the esc and booster get plugged into the receiver. And as mentioned do not use the esc power switch. Early versions of the booster did not have a switch so if yours doesn't everything will be on when you plug in the batt.
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Old 02-10-2017, 12:16 PM   #8729
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CHris, thank you for that fine piece of informational goodness.

My TQ booster actually has a switch built into it.

Ok, then. Db12RR with lipo conversion and AE front end. Now on to getting it built and running. Haha.
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Old 02-11-2017, 10:22 AM   #8730
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Umm be careful with those exposed battery leads! fires start that way.
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