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Old 06-22-2011, 08:55 PM   #8641
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Originally Posted by avs View Post
you don't indicate what the receiver pack is lipo or nimh? it matters

you don't indicate what the instructions for speedpassion say. some ESC's can run off the receiver pack, and others need to have the 'red' wire lifted from the plug.

if the motor is turning VERY slowly it is suspicious that the ESC may be powered by the receiver pack.

rtfm
It's a LiPo Rx pack

I've been looking through the manual and haven't really seen anything about Rx packs yet. I'll keep looking though
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Old 06-22-2011, 09:12 PM   #8642
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If it was being powered by the RX pack it would be faster than with the 1 cell as the LiPo RX pack is 7.4 volts...it would just die really really fast. Does the ESC power the motor if the 1 cell pack is not plugged in?
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Old 06-22-2011, 09:40 PM   #8643
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Ok, if you are using a 2S lipo receiver pack, it should be plugged into your voltage regulator. The VR should be plugged into the RX neither of these should be plugged or wired in anywhere else. The switch should only turn on the RX pack. The ESC should not be turned on, but it should come on when you switch on the RX pack.

If you haven't done so, unplug the RX pack, get a 2S Lipo and run the ESC from it like it was in a touring car. Use the program card to turn off the voltage cut off in the ESC. Then hook up the RX pack and 1S pack again and see if it works. My Speed Passion did not work properly until I wired it normally with a 2S pack and shut off the voltage cut off.
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Old 06-23-2011, 06:31 PM   #8644
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Ok, if you are using a 2S lipo receiver pack, it should be plugged into your voltage regulator. The VR should be plugged into the RX neither of these should be plugged or wired in anywhere else. The switch should only turn on the RX pack. The ESC should not be turned on, but it should come on when you switch on the RX pack.

If you haven't done so, unplug the RX pack, get a 2S Lipo and run the ESC from it like it was in a touring car. Use the program card to turn off the voltage cut off in the ESC. Then hook up the RX pack and 1S pack again and see if it works. My Speed Passion did not work properly until I wired it normally with a 2S pack and shut off the voltage cut off.
Okay here's the situation now...

The regulator is supposedly not needed with the Rx pack. However, the solder on the switch for the Rx pack broke, and the soldering iron I have isn't really ideal for small gauge wire, nor are my soldering skills. I'll get it fixed tomorrow night at the off-road carpet track I go to. I did get to do some testing before it broke though. I messed around with it a little, and it seemed to be quicker today. More problems now though-

1) The motor is cogging. A lot. The sensor wire was a little loose however. I'm going to try with a different motor tomorrow night if the wire wasn't the problem.

2)I have the Stock Club Race SP ESC, and I don't believe I can change the LiPo cutoff. I can only adjust the throttle, drag brake, and Thermal protection with the program card.

3) After the little bit of testing I did do, the ESC was warm. Not hot, but I could feel heat coming off the heat sink after a MINIMAL amount of testing.

I haven't even driven this thing yet, and it's driving me insane!
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Old 06-26-2011, 07:07 PM   #8645
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Hey guys.

Borrowed a Tekin for some practice today so I got a lot of run time in. My question now though is how do you tweak these cars effectively? We spent some time messing around with it today but it still wasn't perfect. I know like in CRC's you just tighten/loosen the springs, but the hockey sticks have me confused. I'm probably going to rebuild the diff though because when I would get on the throttle hard after a corner it would pull to the right.
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Old 06-26-2011, 09:44 PM   #8646
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These really dont tweak in the normal way. In fact the only times I've found tweak is when something is bent. But thay are sensitive to side-to-side balance, are you sure that your car is well balanced? If so then check that the motor plate is not bent, this can happen after some hard impacts and can induce some small tweak. Then check that the hocky stick pivots are not sticking, or anything binding on the center pivot. Last how old are the hockey sticks and what type; cf or fiberglass? As thay wear out the elastic rates can vary and feel like a tweak. If you have the fiberglass ones I'd recomend you get some cf replacement ones, thay were very efective in getting the car to center-up quicker at corner exit.

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Old 06-26-2011, 09:59 PM   #8647
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These really dont tweak in the normal way. In fact the only times I've found tweak is when something is bent. But thay are sensitive to side-to-side balance, are you sure that your car is well balanced? If so then check that the motor plate is not bent, this can happen after some hard impacts and can induce some small tweak. Then check that the hocky stick pivots are not sticking, or anything binding on the center pivot. Last how old are the hockey sticks and what type; cf or fiberglass? As thay wear out the elastic rates can vary and feel like a tweak. If you have the fiberglass ones I'd recomend you get some cf replacement ones, thay were very efective in getting the car to center-up quicker at corner exit.

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It wasn't great, but it was balanced. I bought it used so I'm not positive how old everything is, or how it was driven before. Everything seems to be in good shape though. We got it driving real smooth by the end of the day but it was pulling hard to the right out of corners. Do you think that could be just because the diff is rough?
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Old 06-26-2011, 10:13 PM   #8648
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Ok was'nt sure as you just changed the esc and that would effect balance. Yes a dirty rough diff can cause the car to pull but its not the only thing. Really I'd suggest you go ahead and rebuild the diff as your planning and then hit the track for a test. If you still have the pullcheck all the pivots, check that the frontend is smooth and nothing grabbing or binding. Also did you check that the rear axle is perfectly centered and that it has the correct end-play? Either of those can cause a pull, if all those are good it really should drive arrow straight. Again as you dont know the condition/age of the hocky sticks I'd recomend you order a new set. Thay work great but are a wear item and do need to be replaced every so often.
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Old 06-26-2011, 10:23 PM   #8649
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Ok was'nt sure as you just changed the esc and that would effect balance. Yes a dirty rough diff can cause the car to pull but its not the only thing. Really I'd suggest you go ahead and rebuild the diff as your planning and then hit the track for a test. If you still have the pullcheck all the pivots, check that the frontend is smooth and nothing grabbing or binding. Also did you check that the rear axle is perfectly centered and that it has the correct end-play? Either of those can cause a pull, if all those are good it really should drive arrow straight. Again as you dont know the condition/age of the hocky sticks I'd recomend you order a new set. Thay work great but are a wear item and do need to be replaced every so often.
oh yeah I do have CF Hockey Sticks on there now but I don't have any spares CF spares. The end play seemed fine according to guys at the track. I ran on-road for the first time today so I'm still a little iffy with everything though
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Old 06-27-2011, 12:56 AM   #8650
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If the car is balanced, it shouldn't be tweaked. Many things can make it feel tweaked. If any of the pivots are binding; if any of the pivots have more than a couple hundredths of play; If the screws in the chassis are holding it in a twisted position; Same for the rear pod; If the front suspension is binding; If the kingpins aren't spaced evenly; If the chassis plate is damaged. Well I could go on but you get the idea. If you absolutely have to you can tweak the car by putting thin spacers under the front mount for the hockey sticks, you should absolutely not need more than .020. But if everything is built properly, you shouldn't need any.
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Old 06-28-2011, 05:31 PM   #8651
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I bought this car used, and it looked like it was set up for oval because of the shims it had and everything else. That may be part of what is wrong. I'm going to rebuild everything before I get my new ESC and try to get it all worked out.

As far as flex plates, do I want thick or thin (carbon fiber)? What is the difference? I'm running on ozite (I guess its considered low traction)
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Old 06-28-2011, 06:20 PM   #8652
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You want the thin carbon plates. If the rear axle shims weren't centered that would deffinately make it pull to one side hard.

Are you racing at PT Raceway?
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Old 06-28-2011, 06:32 PM   #8653
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Thats a very good idea, rebuild it to the kit specs as outlined in the manual. The kit setup is a very good starting point with the CF sticks. I have'nt checked and because you have the oldest version car I dont know what Jason has on hand for parts so that might decide which flex plates you can use. The thinner flex plates were in theory better for low bite conditions; allowed the car to roll more. I found the thick plates to be the best overall for me when I switched to the lighter 1s componets we use today and I run an a very lowbite track. If possible test both and see which suits your track and style.
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Old 06-28-2011, 06:59 PM   #8654
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You want the thin carbon plates. If the rear axle shims weren't centered that would deffinately make it pull to one side hard.

Are you racing at PT Raceway?
No as of now there isn't any interest with on-road at PT, so I went out to Beaver on Sunday. From what I heard, the traction isn't very good at PT, at least for 1/12. Mark A said his rear was kicking out a lot with his.

Probably going to race at Beaver whenever I can and maybe take a few trips out to Cleveland this winter to race though. Do you happen to have a set-up for either of those tracks? Everyone there Sunday said you were the guy to talk to about setting one of these up.
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Old 06-28-2011, 07:24 PM   #8655
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Thats a very good idea, rebuild it to the kit specs as outlined in the manual. The kit setup is a very good starting point with the CF sticks. I have'nt checked and because you have the oldest version car I dont know what Jason has on hand for parts so that might decide which flex plates you can use. The thinner flex plates were in theory better for low bite conditions; allowed the car to roll more. I found the thick plates to be the best overall for me when I switched to the lighter 1s componets we use today and I run an a very lowbite track. If possible test both and see which suits your track and style.
On the BMI site there are mainly CH12/10 parts. I'm running the RR, so are there sites like Stormer that have these hockey sticks in stock? Also, do you know the dimensions of the thick and thin? I could check with the calipers and see what they are now.
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