BMI's DB12R
10-23-2007, 11:59 AM
#2416
Anyone else have trouble removing and installing novak brushless motors? I know when Jason said he designed the rear pod for brushless, but mine will absolutely not drop in, I have tried all possible angles and such, so i ended up loosening the left axle mount to slide the novak brushless in.. If only the rear mounts were like 2mm more apart hehe. unless im missing something
10-23-2007, 01:00 PM
#2417
the brushless motor will fit just fine. You do need to loosen the left side screws to install the novak. The LRP fits without. The pod is designed to fit the motor with no interferance of the tabs and also allow for larger than usual pinions. I could have spread the pods further apart but that would have made the pods specific to the Prism wheels and cut parma drivers out of the picture. The 2 wheels have different offsets and i dont want to limit my market. The important part is that the motor will fit with no dremel action and you can gear the motor to where it needs to be. In order to make them fit without loosening the screws on 1 side i would need to do a 3 bolt pod which is considerably weaker and the flex characteristics are not symetrical like i wanted. I wanted the pod to fit brushless but with no sacrifice to performance.
Last edited by protc3; 10-23-2007 at 01:37 PM. Reason: forgot something
10-23-2007, 02:17 PM
#2418
Hi Jason,
I also had problems installing and removing my Novak 10.5 and 5.5 via the top of the pod. However, there were a couple times I got the 10.5 to go in by jiggling it around b/c it got wedged and it finaly dropped in.
When I put the 5.5 in this past Sunday, I removed the entire pod assembly from the bottom graphite plate to remove the 10.5 and put the 5.5 in. I do things the hard way. LOL! But, now I know to just loosen the screws you mentioned.
Not a big deal for me, tho, because I don't/won't be changing motors again. I'd rather have it all balanced out than get ease of motor removal. :-)
-Rich
I also had problems installing and removing my Novak 10.5 and 5.5 via the top of the pod. However, there were a couple times I got the 10.5 to go in by jiggling it around b/c it got wedged and it finaly dropped in.
When I put the 5.5 in this past Sunday, I removed the entire pod assembly from the bottom graphite plate to remove the 10.5 and put the 5.5 in. I do things the hard way. LOL! But, now I know to just loosen the screws you mentioned.
Not a big deal for me, tho, because I don't/won't be changing motors again. I'd rather have it all balanced out than get ease of motor removal. :-)
-Rich
10-23-2007, 04:06 PM
#2419
What did you do to your motor to make the body sit lower. Did you trim the tabs? Any chance you can post a pic. I'm trying to lower the body on my DB12R without having the body hit the motor tabs.
Thanks,
Jeff
10-23-2007, 04:52 PM
#2420
oops, that should have been 2388
Last edited by EricF; 10-24-2007 at 09:46 AM.
10-23-2007, 05:58 PM
#2422
Hi Jason,
I also had problems installing and removing my Novak 10.5 and 5.5 via the top of the pod. However, there were a couple times I got the 10.5 to go in by jiggling it around b/c it got wedged and it finaly dropped in.
When I put the 5.5 in this past Sunday, I removed the entire pod assembly from the bottom graphite plate to remove the 10.5 and put the 5.5 in. I do things the hard way. LOL! But, now I know to just loosen the screws you mentioned.
Not a big deal for me, tho, because I don't/won't be changing motors again. I'd rather have it all balanced out than get ease of motor removal. :-)
-Rich
I also had problems installing and removing my Novak 10.5 and 5.5 via the top of the pod. However, there were a couple times I got the 10.5 to go in by jiggling it around b/c it got wedged and it finaly dropped in.
When I put the 5.5 in this past Sunday, I removed the entire pod assembly from the bottom graphite plate to remove the 10.5 and put the 5.5 in. I do things the hard way. LOL! But, now I know to just loosen the screws you mentioned.
Not a big deal for me, tho, because I don't/won't be changing motors again. I'd rather have it all balanced out than get ease of motor removal. :-)
-Rich
Thats cool rich. To be honest, The nice part about brushless is that you are not taking the motor out often. My main concern was that the motor was secure,No Tab interference, and there was room for gearing. I did mess with a 3 bolt pod and with the brushless motor weighing more, The pod was not strong enough. In an impact the motor side bent real easy. Without the added structure, the pod flexed under impact from the forward shock of the heavier motor and bent the pod something severe. The motor wants to keep going forward.
I dont believe in putting any gimic out there. I want the parts to do there job and do it well
10-23-2007, 06:08 PM
#2423
heres a pic of my car with the brushed setup in it..
10-23-2007, 06:41 PM
#2425
hey dave how is it going good to see your going to be at the gayte this weekend. just make sure you keep an eye on your pit board
10-23-2007, 07:03 PM
#2426
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kail [View]
Anyone can tell me if lilac /yellow combi works better than purple/grey for stock using crc carpet? I am wondering if i should try.
it depends on a few factors....but what traction compound are you allowed to use?
This was post #2238, what of it? dont explain about the body posts...
Originally Posted by Kail [View]
Anyone can tell me if lilac /yellow combi works better than purple/grey for stock using crc carpet? I am wondering if i should try.
it depends on a few factors....but what traction compound are you allowed to use?
This was post #2238, what of it? dont explain about the body posts...
10-23-2007, 11:37 PM
#2428
I have a couple questions for stock motor racing:
Has anyone tried .022 springs? I had put them on initially because I felt like the front end was diving around, and i wanted to flatten it out. I took them off because my car was pushing a bit, which may have been more the tires. I was trying gray fronts at the time. However, I had my fastest laps this way.
I have heard of guys with other cars claiming going up on the spring can make the car cut more, if not steer more. Seems like this is with the old school front end more...?
I also went to more caster (shims back), heavier spring (copper, them SM black), 7000 wt instead of 5000wt trying to get the car to get thru the middle of the turn and finish the corner better. Going to a Dbl. Pink / gray combo helped the most. I have noticed that I want more mid/exit steering on a consistent basis...any ideas? I'm trying to get this thing sorted for the Halloween Classic, and i'm going to the local track tomorrow, so fire away
Thanks
Ending setup for the night
Front
.020 spring w/ 1 .010 shim preload
10* block
max castor
1.5* camber
Servo flat, outer ballstud shimmed up 3mm
dbl pink 1/2 sauce 1.70 (track was kinda green at first)
.5 toe out
4mm ride ht
stock width (no shims)
Rear
35wt Losi/Speedmerchant black spring
Corally long ballstud ~2mm taller than stock
1mm droop
chassis & pod flat
.066 flex plate no screw
7000 wt damper lube
grey full sauce 1.80
4mm ride
battery middle
172mm wide
Has anyone tried .022 springs? I had put them on initially because I felt like the front end was diving around, and i wanted to flatten it out. I took them off because my car was pushing a bit, which may have been more the tires. I was trying gray fronts at the time. However, I had my fastest laps this way.
I have heard of guys with other cars claiming going up on the spring can make the car cut more, if not steer more. Seems like this is with the old school front end more...?
I also went to more caster (shims back), heavier spring (copper, them SM black), 7000 wt instead of 5000wt trying to get the car to get thru the middle of the turn and finish the corner better. Going to a Dbl. Pink / gray combo helped the most. I have noticed that I want more mid/exit steering on a consistent basis...any ideas? I'm trying to get this thing sorted for the Halloween Classic, and i'm going to the local track tomorrow, so fire away
Thanks
Ending setup for the night
Front
.020 spring w/ 1 .010 shim preload
10* block
max castor
1.5* camber
Servo flat, outer ballstud shimmed up 3mm
dbl pink 1/2 sauce 1.70 (track was kinda green at first)
.5 toe out
4mm ride ht
stock width (no shims)
Rear
35wt Losi/Speedmerchant black spring
Corally long ballstud ~2mm taller than stock
1mm droop
chassis & pod flat
.066 flex plate no screw
7000 wt damper lube
grey full sauce 1.80
4mm ride
battery middle
172mm wide
