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Old 11-26-2003, 01:24 AM   #46
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I've had a lot of frustration over my Kr's. I've owned two and both their magnets came loose. Even blew an arm. But once I did get the timing and gearing right, it was fast. i was using an 8x1, 766 brushes, 8* timing, Reedy copper springs bent to 180*. This was on a pretty tight indoor track. I was using a final drive of 9.36 with foams from 63mm to 61mm. The comm and brushes lasted three runs, but we were only running 4 min runs. Once I found the sweet spot, all the bad things about these motors were forgotten .

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Old 11-26-2003, 01:25 AM   #47
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I have had a few of the local sedan racers use some of the KR's that I was given to race oval with. In oval they put out the power, just not the effi. In mod sedan they have worked very well for all the guys that have run them. 2 runs on the brushes and cut the comm every run with reedy 767's. 12-24 degrees of timing depending on the track size.

It is hard to give any timing or brush and gear reccomendations without seeing the arm it self. The pattern, wire size ect... can tell you allot about how the motor will perform on the track, if you can post a picture of the arm I can give you a good suggestion on the timing, brushes, and a gear to use.

The notches on the endbell are spaced at 9 degrees apart. I just double checked on my timing stand.

you can e-mail me the pic or post it here. [email protected]
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Old 11-26-2003, 01:56 AM   #48
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Speedo,

I had one of the magnets come loose on the KR., although it wasn't rubbing on the armature. Could this be your problem of different dyno readings?

I used Corally Gold 180 Deg springs on the KR (10x1) and got much better comm wear.

Hope this helps.
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Old 11-26-2003, 02:47 AM   #49
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Kr - Schumacher "Acroms" brushes, 12* timing, springs between 150*-180* = YUM
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Old 11-26-2003, 09:00 AM   #50
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do you guys have a general guide line on how to gear and time
the motors from track to track. for example bigtrack less timing
taller gear or vice versa. same question goes for brush springs.
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Old 11-26-2003, 09:25 AM   #51
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Attached is a picture of the arm.

I'll check the magnets next time I have the dyno out (tonight) also.

Where can I find a good brush bending tool?

Thanks
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File Type: jpg brushes 009.jpg (59.0 KB, 88 views)
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Old 11-26-2003, 11:12 AM   #52
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It is a rather big pack on the arm for a 10x2. I would run 767's, with trinity red's or red+ and a purple- and 18 degrees of timing. If you can run more then I would but if you cant then dont. I you have to run less to get the punch up then run the purple and red combo, if you are not lowering the timing the use the reds. It will help the motor not choke off as much.

Gearing is going to be super important. Chack and make sure that your not burning the brushes. I have found that narowing the brushes a little on each side can help to make sure that they are not getting to hot and waring to fast.
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Old 11-26-2003, 02:08 PM   #53
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Is the arm wires a shade of purple, or is it your camera? It looks like it got a bit warm from the pic.
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Old 11-26-2003, 06:21 PM   #54
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It could be a little purple.

If the notches on the endbell are 9 degrees as you say, then the fantom label is off, as one notch is at about 15 degrees.

What timing jig would you recommend? Does anybody besides fantom and trinity make them?

Thanks
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Old 11-26-2003, 07:39 PM   #55
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Try less gear. You should be 2 winds less of gear, not 2 teeth. I think youre overgeared.
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Old 11-26-2003, 09:56 PM   #56
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Gearing lower is definately something I'm going to try, however I did start out gearing 5 or 6 teeth lower when I first ran the motor, and I went up from there. I will try it again though.
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Old 11-26-2003, 09:57 PM   #57
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Watch the heat also!
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Old 11-27-2003, 03:30 PM   #58
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Any recommendations on a timing jig?

Also, has anybody tried the Pt from Reedy?
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Old 11-28-2003, 12:58 AM   #59
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Racetech, and the fantom one is the one that I use. Funny how the sticker is off, but the fantom jig works great.
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