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Old 06-26-2007, 06:45 PM   #1
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Default Help With MIP 1/10th Tweak Station

Any one know which end of the car you ajust the shock colars on,

say if the front end is on the pivoting part with the level, and it says its tweaked, do you adjust the front shocks or the rear shocks?

it did not come with a manual, which sucks.....
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Old 06-26-2007, 06:51 PM   #2
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You adjust the opposite corner. So if the front is on the pivoting part, and you need more pressure on the right front tire, you add some pre-load to the front left.
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Old 06-26-2007, 07:04 PM   #3
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Just a FYI........

Don't believe the level on the MIP TS........Mine was wayyyyyyy off.

To check it, place the level on a reasonably level surface. Note the position of the bubble, swap ends on the level (turn it 180 degrees), note the position of the bubble. Should be in the same place. If the bubble shows different, the level is off.
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Old 06-27-2007, 09:14 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by LOSI123 View Post
Any one know which end of the car you ajust the shock colars on,

say if the front end is on the pivoting part with the level, and it says its tweaked, do you adjust the front shocks or the rear shocks?

it did not come with a manual, which sucks.....
When adjusting the tweak of the chassis, I always start with the rear of the car for a minor adjustment (1/8th of a turn). I then check the level, IF it needs more adjustment, I next adjust the front shocks a minor amount. I keep alternating between the front and back until the cross-weighting is balanced. By adjusting the front and rear equally, the car will be less prone to having a low corner, thus keeping the chassis from dragging on the ground.

From time to time it is good to check the level on the tweak station to make sure that the level is still true, and that the level beam is still balanced. The lead dots that came in the package are to do just that. I flipped my balance bar over and put the lead on the bottom so that there was less chance of it getting ripped off.

good luck.
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Old 06-27-2007, 03:03 PM   #5
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Just a FYI........

Don't believe the level on the MIP TS........Mine was wayyyyyyy off.

To check it, place the level on a reasonably level surface. Note the position of the bubble, swap ends on the level (turn it 180 degrees), note the position of the bubble. Should be in the same place. If the bubble shows different, the level is off.
You need to balance the piece with the bubble in it in the initial setup when you first bought the tweak station.
Set up the other 2 pieces so its level on a surface. Use the 3 screws to adjust using the the bubble piece to check for level. You do this by putting the bubble piece on top of the stationary one and adjust one of the 2 screws until the bubble is between the 2 lines. Then lay the bubble piece on the bar and partially on the stationary one (front to back) and adjust the one screw in the bar. Go back and check the stationary piece and repeat if needed. Now that these 2 are level put the bubble piece on the bearings and see if its level. If not place sticky lead tape/dots (should have been included in the tweak station) on the high side until the bubble is centered between the 2 lines. Now that the bubble piece is balanced it should always show level when you used it if the other 2 pieces are set per above when you put them on a surface.
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Old 06-27-2007, 03:21 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Brian McGreevy View Post
You adjust the opposite corner. So if the front is on the pivoting part, and you need more pressure on the right front tire, you add some pre-load to the front left.
Actually, if the front of your car is off tweak, you adjust the opposite side but in the rear of the car.

If you go to Xray's website, look up their setup guide (excellent resource for any touring car) and read up on tweak there. Great instructions and pictures.
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Old 06-27-2007, 05:34 PM   #7
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You need to balance the piece with the bubble in it in the initial setup when you first bought the tweak station.
Set up the other 2 pieces so its level on a surface. Use the 3 screws to adjust using the the bubble piece to check for level. You do this by putting the bubble piece on top of the stationary one and adjust one of the 2 screws until the bubble is between the 2 lines. Then lay the bubble piece on the bar and partially on the stationary one (front to back) and adjust the one screw in the bar. Go back and check the stationary piece and repeat if needed. Now that these 2 are level put the bubble piece on the bearings and see if its level. If not place sticky lead tape/dots (should have been included in the tweak station) on the high side until the bubble is centered between the 2 lines. Now that the bubble piece is balanced it should always show level when you used it if the other 2 pieces are set per above when you put them on a surface.
Balancing the movable beam has nothing to do with the level being calibrated to any of the flat surfaces. My bubble level is not calibrated with any of the flat surfaces, period. Putting a pound of weight on either end of the beam won't change that.

I measure the height of the ends of the beam to ensure the corner weights are correct. I completely ignore the level.
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Old 06-27-2007, 06:06 PM   #8
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Can these weights be bought from MIP, since I also have a used one and it does not have these weights already on them. I was not even aware that there was weights needed on the level bar. Learn something everyday I guess.
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Old 06-27-2007, 06:28 PM   #9
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Balancing the movable beam has nothing to do with the level being calibrated to any of the flat surfaces. My bubble level is not calibrated with any of the flat surfaces, period. Putting a pound of weight on either end of the beam won't change that.

I measure the height of the ends of the beam to ensure the corner weights are correct. I completely ignore the level.
Are you saying the plastic bubble level is crooked in the aluminum piece? If so then yeah you can't fix it by balancing the aluminum piece.
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Old 06-27-2007, 06:31 PM   #10
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Can these weights be bought from MIP, since I also have a used one and it does not have these weights already on them. I was not even aware that there was weights needed on the level bar. Learn something everyday I guess.
You can get some from a golf shop. If they are too long/big cut to size or move the piece closer to the center pivot point to balance.
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Old 06-27-2007, 11:21 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Sydewynder View Post
You can get some from a golf shop. If they are too long/big cut to size or move the piece closer to the center pivot point to balance.
I will give that a shot, thanks for the info.
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Old 06-28-2007, 07:37 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Elboogie View Post
Actually, if the front of your car is off tweak, you adjust the opposite side but in the rear of the car.

If you go to Xray's website, look up their setup guide (excellent resource for any touring car) and read up on tweak there. Great instructions and pictures.
Xray's tweak instructions never made sense with me. How do you tell if it's the front or rear that's off? If you check the tweak on their station or any other station isn't it going to show the same reading whether the front or rear tires are on the leveling end? The front corner weight effects the rear corner weight and vice-versa.

This is why it's always been my understanding that you want to adjust the shock collars on opposing corners equally. eg. FR + RL down 1/4 turn, FL +RR up 1/4 turn.
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Old 06-28-2007, 08:39 AM   #13
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I will give that a shot, thanks for the info.
They are lead disks punched from a really thin sheet with a self-adhesive baking, probably .015 thick. I am sure that they are used somewhere else for something else, just repurposed for RC. In reality, the bar itself is not that far off, you are only making up for slight materials deficencies. Mine only took one lead dot to balance it. You could probably get the same effect using a single hole punch and some adhesive backed aluminum tape (like Speed Merchant #SM5070 - wheel balancing tape), or like what is used in HVAC. I flipped the bar over, settled the bar with the dot placed adhesive side up, and slid it to the side that was light. Keep pushing the dot to the end till the bar levels, then flip the dot over and stick it down.

As was brought out before, put the bar on a surface first, one direction, then turn it 180 degrees, noting where the bubble lands in the sight glass. It should be off by the same amount in either direction. This will tell you if your bubble level was attached square to the bar in the first place. I have seen one other tweak station where the bubble was not square to the balance bar.
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Old 06-28-2007, 08:54 AM   #14
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Here's a link to XRC Magazines how to section that describes how to adjust tweak. http://www.rc411.com/pages/howto.php?howto=2&page=3
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Old 06-28-2007, 09:14 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by SlamMan View Post
Xray's tweak instructions never made sense with me. How do you tell if it's the front or rear that's off? If you check the tweak on their station or any other station isn't it going to show the same reading whether the front or rear tires are on the leveling end? The front corner weight effects the rear corner weight and vice-versa.
When using a tweak station, you are checking the end of the car on the non-pivoting part of the station. So if you have the front wheels on the pivot, and the rear wheels on the stationary, and the bubble is out of level, the rear of the car is tweaked. And vice versa for the front.
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