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Old 08-27-2007, 09:04 AM   #136
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got a q for u all

about how many teeth did you go up from brushed stock to
brushless stock(13.5) in touring

The more to answer the better and tell me what brushed motor u ran

I ran a novak 13.5 offroad and i went up 9 to 10 teeth from the monster stock i usually ran

thanks for the help
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Old 08-29-2007, 10:02 AM   #137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceAce701 View Post
got a q for u all

about how many teeth did you go up from brushed stock to
brushless stock(13.5) in touring

The more to answer the better and tell me what brushed motor u ran

I ran a novak 13.5 offroad and i went up 9 to 10 teeth from the monster stock i usually ran

thanks for the help
Try starting 4 teeth more and adjust accordingly...
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Old 08-29-2007, 01:11 PM   #138
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Man, this motor has some grunt out of the corners.
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Old 08-29-2007, 11:43 PM   #139
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Questions on sintered rotor

Got it installed this eve. and a couple things I noticed.
1) it was .080 shorter on the pinion end so now my pinion "hangs over" about that amount on my TC5. With the bonded rotor it was perfectly flush when aligned.
2). It seems to be a bit more noisy at real low speed...kinda a cement mixer sound if you were running slow enough to juice your tires. It also is way tougher to turn by hand...far more then the bonded and completely different then all my Mamba motors. Feels alot like a stock brushed to turn by hand..possibly tougher to turn. Is all this normal?? It seems to run just fine on the bench...I plan to get to the track tomarrow.

Update on ratio.
I'm now at 5.78 and that is perfect for a mid-small 13 sec. asphalt track. Running around 150 degs at 8 min runs. (Still on bonded rotor till tomarrow).
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Old 08-30-2007, 04:05 PM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Verndog View Post
Questions on sintered rotor

Got it installed this eve. and a couple things I noticed.
1) it was .080 shorter on the pinion end so now my pinion "hangs over" about that amount on my TC5. With the bonded rotor it was perfectly flush when aligned.
2). It seems to be a bit more noisy at real low speed...kinda a cement mixer sound if you were running slow enough to juice your tires. It also is way tougher to turn by hand...far more then the bonded and completely different then all my Mamba motors. Feels alot like a stock brushed to turn by hand..possibly tougher to turn. Is all this normal?? It seems to run just fine on the bench...I plan to get to the track tomarrow.

Update on ratio.
I'm now at 5.78 and that is perfect for a mid-small 13 sec. asphalt track. Running around 150 degs at 8 min runs. (Still on bonded rotor till tomarrow).
Thats what a sintered rotor does

That is all normal

And are you shure the shims are correctly on the rotor? That might be why it is shorter... I dont know if thats how this motor works, But I know my novak 13.5 does
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Old 08-30-2007, 09:36 PM   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Verndog View Post
Questions on sintered rotor

Got it installed this eve. and a couple things I noticed.
1) it was .080 shorter on the pinion end so now my pinion "hangs over" about that amount on my TC5. With the bonded rotor it was perfectly flush when aligned.
2). It seems to be a bit more noisy at real low speed...kinda a cement mixer sound if you were running slow enough to juice your tires. It also is way tougher to turn by hand...far more then the bonded and completely different then all my Mamba motors. Feels alot like a stock brushed to turn by hand..possibly tougher to turn. Is all this normal?? It seems to run just fine on the bench...I plan to get to the track tomarrow.

Update on ratio.
I'm now at 5.78 and that is perfect for a mid-small 13 sec. asphalt track. Running around 150 degs at 8 min runs. (Still on bonded rotor till tomarrow).
The grinding noise is from the pinion side bearing , replace it ...
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Old 08-30-2007, 10:50 PM   #142
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I find the shafts on the sintered rotors for these motors is much softer than Novak's. Mine is all chewed up from the set screw, and had to be filed so I could get a pinion back on. And that's after only two race nights. I've been sliding pinions on and off my Novak for a year without so much as a scratch.
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Old 08-30-2007, 11:05 PM   #143
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I ran the LRP 13.5 for the first time this evening. I geared it at a 32.5 rollout and it ran about the same top speed as a CO27 while having much more punch out of the corner. Temperature was 135-145 degrees which is pretty close to what we have been running the Novak bonded 13.5 w/o having to worry about ruining rotors. It was my first time running Lipo and Brushless and I'm really quite happy with it. My lap times were so consistent it's not funny.
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Old 08-30-2007, 11:16 PM   #144
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Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO View Post
Thats what a sintered rotor does

That is all normal

And are you shure the shims are correctly on the rotor? That might be why it is shorter... I dont know if thats how this motor works, But I know my novak 13.5 does
.080 is one heck of alot of shim. I saw no shim when I removed the old one, and after assembly there was very little end play...possibly .010.

Also the pinion side bearing felt fine when I checked it while replacing the rotor ...and I seriously doubt it failed in 10 runs. The noise is only at VERY low speed. Goes right away with any real "useable" rpm.

Ran it today and it ran great. Temps dropped a good 10+! Off the track 12 min. run at 142. Wow...sweet setup. Are you reading Tekin?? You snooze you loose. Possibly a bit more low end, but... I too do not see a REAL noticeable change in power...more like slight.
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Old 08-30-2007, 11:23 PM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Verndog View Post
.080 is one heck of alot of shim. I saw no shim when I removed the old one, and after assembly there was very little end play...possibly .010.

Also the pinion side bearing felt fine when I checked it while replacing the rotor ...and I seriously doubt it failed in 10 runs. The noise is only at VERY low speed. Goes right away with any real "useable" rpm.

Ran it today and it ran great. Temps dropped a good 10+! Off the track 12 min. run at 142. Wow...sweet setup. Are you reading Tekin?? You snooze you loose. Possibly a bit more low end, but... I too do not see a REAL noticeable change in power...more like slight.

Maybe your right , but that sound is still a indication...


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Old 08-31-2007, 05:05 PM   #146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Verndog View Post
.080 is one heck of alot of shim. I saw no shim when I removed the old one, and after assembly there was very little end play...possibly .010.

Also the pinion side bearing felt fine when I checked it while replacing the rotor ...and I seriously doubt it failed in 10 runs. The noise is only at VERY low speed. Goes right away with any real "useable" rpm.

Ran it today and it ran great. Temps dropped a good 10+! Off the track 12 min. run at 142. Wow...sweet setup. Are you reading Tekin?? You snooze you loose. Possibly a bit more low end, but... I too do not see a REAL noticeable change in power...more like slight.

Ooops, I read that wrong, I thought you said .08 lol... Sorry about that

Thats alot less, But does it matter anyways?

Cool, thats nice low temps, you could gear up another tooth or 2 easily, I want more BL motors lol, My novak is cool, But I really wanted the LRP
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Old 08-31-2007, 05:24 PM   #147
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Ooops, I read that wrong, I thought you said .08 lol... Sorry about that

Thats alot less, But does it matter anyways?
Cool, thats nice low temps, you could gear up another tooth or 2 easily, I want more BL motors lol, My novak is cool, But I really wanted the LRP
You prop. thought I said .008 or eight thousandths.

Correct...at this point it doesn't matter. Just wanted confirmation this was normal I suppose. I may gear up but really like the quick acceleration out of corners...seems at this point to be more benificial then a touch more top end on our home track at least. There was zero fade even after 10 mins. with both IB4200's and GP4300's. I'm very impressed with this combo so far...thank you LRP!!

A friend of mine thought they may have intentionally made it shorter to easily ID what rotor was in for racing regulation?? Not sure, but I can tell by looking now that I've made the swap.
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Old 08-31-2007, 11:49 PM   #148
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Quote:
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You prop. thought I said .008 or eight thousandths.

Correct...at this point it doesn't matter. Just wanted confirmation this was normal I suppose. I may gear up but really like the quick acceleration out of corners...seems at this point to be more benificial then a touch more top end on our home track at least. There was zero fade even after 10 mins. with both IB4200's and GP4300's. I'm very impressed with this combo so far...thank you LRP!!

A friend of mine thought they may have intentionally made it shorter to easily ID what rotor was in for racing regulation?? Not sure, but I can tell by looking now that I've made the swap.

Thats true, It might be short for that reason, IDK

And yeah me too! I like the punch
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Old 09-02-2007, 04:38 PM   #149
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if anybody is looking for a LRP 13.5 i have one for sale with the sintered rotor and a brand new spare rotor , i only have 1 battery pack run through it .
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=179677
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Old 09-04-2007, 06:39 AM   #150
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Ok guys, just got hold of the LRP Eraser 15.5 ( as it says that is more like a stock that the 13.5) and want to race it at my local club.

Track is indoor on primafelt type carpet and is fairly small ( down to around 10 sec laps depending on track layout )

Can someone please give me an idea for gearing to start with as I have absolutely no idea at the moment where to start ??

Thanks
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